a simple solution

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tomsalwasser
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a simple solution

Post by tomsalwasser »

Greetings Woodworkers,

This very simple technique allows me to more accurately staple the drawer bottom support. I hope you find it useful.

Best,
Tom

http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7005/6425 ... f121_z.jpg
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fiatben
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Interesting

Post by fiatben »

Does this assume your bench is level and your eyes not so good? I can see where this would be really good off-bench, say on a jobsite when it's hard to visually line things up.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Reminds me of a drill I had several years back. The spirit level built in never became popular.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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tomsalwasser
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Post by tomsalwasser »

fiatben wrote:Does this assume your bench is level and your eyes not so good? I can see where this would be really good off-bench, say on a jobsite when it's hard to visually line things up.
Ben, I need to keep the gun level because the drawer bottom support stick is only 1/4" thick and any deflection up or down sends the staple into the drawer bottom or through the stick. You'd think it would be easy to eyeball level but to do so requires me to drop my head way down to the level of the gun, which is awkward at best. I like keeping my face away from the action too.
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tomsalwasser
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Post by tomsalwasser »

JPG40504 wrote:Reminds me of a drill I had several years back. The spirit level built in never became popular.
Yes the built-ins don't ever seem to be where you need them. The rubber band holds the line level just right. I did get inspired to buy a small magnetic pocket level; I hope it works...it should arrive in a few days.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I have a lot of trouble with blow out; especially when using longer staples/nails. It is not just alignment of the gun however. Wood grain characteristics have a lot to do with it.

I am very careful about where and when I use my pin nailer for this very reason.
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fixit
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Post by fixit »

The following information may help reduce the problems with blowout with pneumatic nailers. It helped me.

[ATTACH]14930[/ATTACH]
Attachments
Brad Nailers Do's and Don't's.pdf
(493.21 KiB) Downloaded 766 times
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Leonard
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EMAIL: woodgoods "at" lavernia "dot" net
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Good info - if I can just remember to apply it.
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Dusty
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Reminds me of an old 'trick' with 4 sided brad points. Cut them off with diagonal cutters which results in a two faced blunter chisel point that will tear rather than split.


I can just see some future archeologist concluding the age of an item secured with the brad 'gun' because of the square shape of the 'hand wrought nails'.:D
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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