I need some help with my 510

jdub176 · Post by **jdub176** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 3:51 pm

I am new to shopsmiths, and recently bought a mark 510. The other day I was trying to cut 45 degree angles in boards by tilting the table in the 45 degree mark on the table. When I would do this with the standard throat plate the blade would hit at around the 20 degree mark. I tried to move the table, but the blade still kept hitting the throat plate. I ended up having to take out the throat plate to complete the cut's, but didn't feel super safe with this. Is there something I am doing wrong or do I need a different throat plate? BTW the blade is hitting the tab's on the throat plate.

Thanks for the help.
Josh

algale · Post by **algale** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 3:59 pm

jdub176 wrote:I am new to shopsmiths, and recently bought a mark 510. The other day I was trying to cut 45 degree angles in boards by tilting the table in the 45 degree mark on the table. When I would do this with the standard throat plate the blade would hit at around the 20 degree mark. I tried to move the table, but the blade still kept hitting the throat plate. I ended up having to take out the throat plate to complete the cut's, but didn't feel super safe with this. Is there something I am doing wrong or do I need a different throat plate? BTW the blade is hitting the tab's on the throat plate.

Thanks for the help.
Josh

You should be able to keep the throat plate in position. You need to both move the table and advance the quill feed until it is in position in the center of f the throat (don't forget to lock it into position once you get the blade properly positioned).

jdub176 · Post by **jdub176** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:02 pm

Thanks for the help. I did have the blade in the cent so I will have to keep playing with it.
Josh

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 4:39 pm

I would suggest that until you feel real comfortable with the process you remove the insert while you are setting up table tilt. Doing this gives you a clear view of where the blade is located within the cut out.

Once the table is tilted to the desired angle, attempt to install the insert. If the blade interferes, move the quill to eliminate the interference. Lock the quill in place and secure the insert to the table.

Turn the blade manually to insure that it is clear.

With the insert installed, you might want to recheck depth of cut.

CAUTION: Remember that when cutting with the table tilted you must control the cutoffs that are above the blade. If you do not, they have a tendency to slide down the table and into the blade. When this happens, they can become hazardous projectiles. I have learned the lesson well after a couple near misses.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 8:53 pm

Jdub;
I think you may have missed the point. When the table is to be tilted to the 45 deg position the blade must also be moved to center it in the opening. Raise the table above the blade and tilt the table to 45 and then do as Dusty suggested and move the quill in the same manner as you would to use the drill press. As you look down through the center of the table insert you will see how the blade moves to the center of the table opening.
Bill V

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Dec 12, 2011 10:05 pm

I will add some 'detail' to the sequence of activities needed to accomplish getting the blade centered in gthe blade slot with gthe table 'being' tilted.

First some basics.

The blade can be moved laterally away from the headstock by loosening the Quill lock wing nut and advancing the quill feed handle. This moves the endof the quill towards(closer) the table.

When the table is tilted to make a bevel cut, the blade slot moves to the right away from the headstock(and therefore the blade).

The sequence of actions needed to accomplish the setup is to:

1) Loosen the quill LOCK wingnut. This allows the quill to move freely with the quill feed lever.

2) Fully raise the table and slide the carriage it all the way to the left. If the spacer ring is present, it should space the blade directly under the blade slot when the table top is horizontal.

3) Slowly lower the table down over the blade. If for some reason the blade does not come up through the blade slot, move the blade using the quill feed handle or slide the carriage(and table).

4) Loosen the table tilt lock and begin tilting the table. As the table tilts, the blade slot will shift to the right and the blade will eventually touch the left side of the blade slot. At that point slightly move the blade towards the right side of the blade slot, and continue to tilt the table to the desired bevel angle.

5) Finally adjust the quill handle to center the blade in the slot, then tighten the quill lock(and all other locks - carriage, table height, table tilt and headstock!)

I started this quite some time ago, so if it duplicates anything posted since I started it, then you be twice 'blessed'!:D

jdub176 · Post by **jdub176** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 11:36 am

Thank you all for the reply's. I will do these steps from now on. It does makes sense once it is spelled out to me.

Again thanks for the help.

Josh

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Tue Dec 13, 2011 12:01 pm

Adding some Safety Advise especially if you are new to shopsmith

0) Unplug machine (an unplugged machine can never accidentally start.) I have bumped a power switch accidentally more than once. It's very scary:eek:

JPG40504 1) Loosen the quill LOCK wingnut. This allows the quill to move freely with the quill feed lever. 2) Fully raise the table and slide the carriage it all the way to the left. If the spacer ring is present, it should space the blade directly under the blade slot when the table top is horizontal. 3) Slowly lower the table down over the blade. If for some reason the blade does not come up through the blade slot, move the blade using the quill [B wrote:feed[/B] handle or slide the carriage(and table).

4) Loosen the table tilt lock and begin tilting the table. As the table tilts, the blade slot will shift to the right and the blade will eventually touch the left side of the blade slot. At that point slightly move the blade towards the right side of the blade slot, and continue to tilt the table to the desired bevel angle.

5) Finally adjust the quill handle to center the blade in the slot, then tighten the quill lock(and all other locks - carriage, table height, table tilt and headstock!):D

6) double check that the blade spins freely without contacting the table (or anything else) and all locks are secure before plugging back in and powering up. It is also potentially dangerous and very frightening when that blade decides to contact the table when powered up. I had a quill vibrate loose once (because I did not make sure it was secure, I snugged it up to keep it from moving when adjusting, but failed to make sure it was tight before getting started), the blade retracted and contacted the table. Destroyed an insert, blade needed sharpening, and I needed to change my pants. I even scared my neighbor across the street who heard the noise.