Arbor wrench

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hopyard
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Arbor wrench

Post by hopyard »

I just got a used 510 on craigslist. I want to clean the saw blade and remove the arbor from it. My machine did not come with an arbor wrench.

Can I use an alternative wrench?
How do I remove the arbor?
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

You have a crescent wrench that will fit?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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terrydowning
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Post by terrydowning »

I use a 12" adjustable wrench.
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

hopyard wrote:I just got a used 510 on craigslist. I want to clean the saw blade and remove the arbor from it. My machine did not come with an arbor wrench.

Can I use an alternative wrench?
How do I remove the arbor?

The arbor is removed from the quill with a 5/32" allen wrench.;) As noted previously, you can use an alternative wrench to remove the arbor nut. Depending upon which type arbor, the threads can be left handed or right handed. Nut on headstock side of blade will be left handed. Nut on the opposite side of blade from headstock will be right handed. The nice thing about the current SS arbor wrench is that it is long enough to keep your fingers/hands clear of the blade teeth.
Rob in San Diego
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Just to make sure there is no confusion, the first two replies are referring to removing the arbor from the blade.(open end/crescent wrench).

The 5/32 allen wrench is referring to removing the arbor(with or without a blade) from the quill shaft.

The reference to left/right handed threads refers to arbor removal from the blade.

FWIW it is easier to remove the blade from the arbor if they are mounted on the quill shaft. That provides support so you can concentrate on moving nuts! Once yer nuts are loose, you can remove it all from the quill shaft and finish disassembling.;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
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hopyard
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Post by hopyard »

Thanks everyone. I just can't bring myself to pay almost $23 for a wrench that only has one purpose. I do not have a crescent wrench big enough but I will go get one.

Also, I was wondering how to get the arbor off of the blade not the whole setup off of the quill. So thanks for clearing up that i should leave it attached to the quill in order to loosen the arbor from the blade.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

hopyard wrote:Thanks everyone. I just can't bring myself to pay almost $23 for a wrench that only has one purpose. I do not have a crescent wrench big enough but I will go get one.

Also, I was wondering how to get the arbor off of the blade not the whole setup off of the quill. So thanks for clearing up that i should leave it attached to the quill in order to loosen the arbor from the blade.

You might want to get two then. One to hold the shaft (left side of blade) and the other for the nut on the right side of the blade.

I second the comment on leaving the arbor on the quill shaft (headstock) until the blade is removed from the arbor. I learned that lesson by doing it otherwise, lost control and the blade met the concrete floor. Scratch two carbide saw teeth (same as one saw blade).

BTW You'll likely have $23++ invested either way you go.
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

dusty wrote:BTW You'll likely have $23++ invested either way you go.


You are right. However the two adjustable wrenches will serve a whole lot of other functions while the factory SS wrench would likely only serve one function and you would still wish for a second wrench for the other side. :)


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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

robinson46176 wrote:You are right. However the two adjustable wrenches will serve a whole lot of other functions while the factory SS wrench would likely only serve one function and you would still wish for a second wrench for the other side. :)


.
Wishing for the 2nd wrench will probably not help to get the arbor nut off. Sometimes I need two larger adjustable wrenches to break it loose.

Even more if I'm trying to go the wrong way!:eek::rolleyes::eek:
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

dusty wrote:Even more if I'm trying to go the wrong way!:eek::rolleyes::eek:


"I" never try to go the wrong way...
But sometimes the threads do... :D


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--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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