Biscuit jointer miter alignment problem

STB · Post by **STB** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 8:43 pm

The Grandmother clock is my current project.
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I want to join the trim pieces using the SS Biscuit Jointer.
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But this is the result of a test on a scrap piece of wood.
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The problem appearers to me to be excessive slop in the guide rods as they slide in the housing boss making the entry angle of the cutter blade unpredictable. My question is; has anyone encountered this problem and how did you overcome it.
My thought is to make a sled that would slide under the biscuit jointer housing with an adjustable 45 deg extension to clamp the piece to be mitered. This would enable fine tuning of the entry angle independent of the biscuit jointer guide.

mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:01 pm

I can't help you with the biscut joiner but I don't know how you work laying down.:

:D

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Good looking clock!

reible · Post by **reible** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:19 pm

Hi,

I think the only way to do this is with a jig that holds the stock at 45 degs to the cutter. It will have to slide into the cutter and be able to work against the spring. At the same time it will need to clamp the stock and keep it from moving with the blade as the cut is done.

Clearly this was not an intended operation with this tool but I see no reason that it can not be used this way safely with a proper jig.

I'm not sure what problem you think you are seeing with the tool but if it is defective then it needs to be fixed before attempting to use it.

Ed

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:47 pm

As a suggestion to do what has indicated is necessary, mount the biscuit jointer rotated 90 on the spindle so that it 'faces' the normal operator position.(I think it will do that, but cannot find mine to check???)

That would allow you to make a sled or jig attached to the miter gauge that has a 45 sloped platform for the workpiece to set on. The platform may need to be slightly elevated to accommodate the biscuit jointer 'moving part' with pins and sandpaper face. The platform should ave a fence or clamp.

This allows you to use the miter gauge slot(s) to allow in/out movement while preventing side deflection. Critical will be the platform angle.

This is a lot easier to visualize than to describe.

STB · Post by **STB** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 5:15 pm

Reible & JPG40504
Thank you for your input. This is what I cobbled together using some ideas from both of you.
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P.S. mbcabinetmaker: I have always thought some of my best work was done laying down.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 7:20 pm

stumpbuster wrote:Reible & JPG40504
Thank you for your input. This is what I cobbled together using some ideas from both of you.
[ATTACH]15430[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]15431[/ATTACH]

P.S. mbcabinetmaker: I have always thought some of my best work was done laying down.

Hey! You never told us you had a tenon master!

That looks like it will do the job as long as the 45 is correct.

Made joints yet?

P.S. Only 'improvement' I would suggest is a miter bar under the MDF base.

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 7:32 pm

Hi,

It would appear you have what you need and adapted more shopsmith bits into the design, great work!

I do have to ask, does it work for you?

Ed

STB · Post by **STB** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 10:05 pm

reible wrote:Hi,

I do have to ask, does it work for you?

Ed

After a bit of trial & error and adjusting the table parallel to the cutter it worked fine.

reible · Post by **reible** » Mon Dec 26, 2011 10:07 pm

GREAT work!

Ed