Jointer extended fence question

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Feb 26, 2012 11:15 pm

dusty wrote:I assume that you clammed up and did not say a single thing about her getting up to fix you breakfast so that this would never happen again.

I think survival was more on his mind!:rolleyes:

I do like that though!;)

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:35 am

My jointer fence has two mounting holes in it one on the infeed side of the cutter and one on the outfeed side. Using the infeed side only provides a pivot point for the fixture to rise up. The aux fence has to be secured at two points.
Bill V

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:07 am

wa2crk wrote:My jointer fence has two mounting holes in it one on the infeed side of the cutter and one on the outfeed side. Using the infeed side only provides a pivot point for the fixture to rise up. The aux fence has to be secured at two points.
Bill V

Doesn't the entire fence flex upward (off of the table) with very little upward pressure? If it does an axillary fence attached only to the jointer fence does nothing to avoid this flex.

The fence would have to be firmly attached, in the vertical plane, to the table. It seems that could be done with a clamp.

However, I say again, wrong tool for the job.

I would cut that rabbet with two passes across the table saw (one flat and one vertical with a tall fencel).

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 9:53 am

dusty wrote:Doesn't the entire fence flex upward (off of the table) with very little upward pressure? If it does an axillary fence attached only to the jointer fence does nothing to avoid this flex.

The fence would have to be firmly attached, in the vertical plane, to the table. It seems that could be done with a clamp.

However, I say again, wrong tool for the job.

I would cut that rabbet with two passes across the table saw (one flat and one vertical with a tall fencel).

While like you I would just use the tablesaw (mostly because I am too lazy to change the jointer setup) I understand that a jointer cut rabbet is usually a lot smoother than a saw cut rabbet.

I think an easy cure would be an "L" shaped hook screwed to the end of the auxiliary fence and hooked under the end of the out-feed table. That positioning would not have to be high accuracy. If the fence lifted 1/16" it would be no big deal since it is only putting down pressure on the feather boards and feather boards are not high accuracy.

.

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 10:06 am

Dusty;
I have only used the procedure once and I didn't get the results that I was looking for. I don't think that the pressure of the "fingers" is great enough to lift the jointer fence if the jointer fence is properly secured and does not have a physical defect. If the fingers do lift the jointer fence I would check the jointer fence's quadrant for a problem such as a crack.
Bill V

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 11:49 am

[quote="wa2crk"]Dusty]

I have a brand new quadrant.

The fingers on the featherboards are quite rigid and are numerous. If you put enough pressure on the table when installing the featherboards, they will lift the fence.

I hardly ever use those featherboards in that application so I had not noticed this until I tried it today.

STB · Post by **STB** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 12:16 pm

dusty wrote: However, I say again, wrong tool for the job.

I would cut that rabbet with two passes across the table saw (one flat and one vertical with a tall fencel).

I would have probably cut the rabbit on the table saw if I felt the workpiece could of been safely controlled it was 72 in + long and about 13 in wide 1/2 in mdf heavy and awkward the rabbit was 3/8" deep. I wanted to create a shadow line by gluing a 1 1/4" x72"x1/2" piece in the rabbit. The SS table saw is rather high for my stature . I felt that laying it flat with a extended support was the safest way to control the piece during the cut.
I wanted to simulate bead board so the first machine operation was to use the molder to simulate beads. When the rabbit was cut with the jointer it tore the ends of the beads. I suspect the jointer blades are not horizontal aligned as good as they could be. I had to clean up the torn beads with the TS. I have been using the SS for about 6 mo and still am at the bottom of my SS learning curve. I have completed about 15 projects using the SS including a grandfather clock. I am amazed how versatile this machine is.
That being said I am still in a SS love hate relationship. The SS frustrates me.

STB · Post by **STB** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 12:20 pm

robinson46176 wrote:I think an easy cure would be an "L" shaped hook screwed to the end of the auxiliary fence and hooked under the end of the out-feed table.
.

Thanks for the input this is what I have done.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 12:45 pm

stumpbuster wrote:I would have probably cut the rabbit on the table saw if I felt the workpiece could of been safely controlled it was 72 in + long and about 13 in wide 1/2 in mdf heavy and awkward the rabbit was 3/8" deep. I wanted to create a shadow line by gluing a 1 1/4" x72"x1/2" piece in the rabbit. The SS table saw is rather high for my stature . I felt that laying it flat with a extended support was the safest way to control the piece during the cut.
I wanted to simulate bead board so the first machine operation was to use the molder to simulate beads. When the rabbit was cut with the jointer it tore the ends of the beads. I suspect the jointer blades are not horizontal aligned as good as they could be. I had to clean up the torn beads with the TS. I have been using the SS for about 6 mo and still am at the bottom of my SS learning curve. I have completed about 15 projects using the SS including a grandfather clock. I am amazed how versatile this machine is.
That being said I am still in a SS love hate relationship. The SS frustrates me.

I have a device that straddles the rip fence for this sort of work. Please ignore the piece of angle aluminum in the attached photos. That was a "failed" experiment.

These images at least show the tall rip fence.

[ATTACH]16514[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16515[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16516[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16517[/ATTACH]

SORRY About This. These photos are posted in the wrong thread. They have nothing to do with the jointer. I guess ya'll already know that. SORRY Again.

STB · Post by **STB** » Fri Mar 02, 2012 2:01 pm

dusty wrote:I have a device that straddles the rip fence for this sort of work. Please ignore the piece of angle aluminum in the attached photos. That was a "failed" experiment.

These images at least show the tall rip fence.

[ATTACH]16514[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16515[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16516[/ATTACH]

[ATTACH]16517[/ATTACH]

Thanks for the pictures. I have a similar extended fence set up for my Iowa shop TS .
Do you fasten the axillary fence to the main fence or do you let it float? If you let it float why?