Table height adjustment question...

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fixit
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Post by fixit »

Ed (in Tampa) said: "...Now I will stick my neck out, if your thinking of buying the Shopsmith planner I would shop around. First if you buy the one that mounts on the Shopsmith ask yourself if your are going to be able to lift it later in life. I have found I don't lift quite as good as I used to. ..."

Ed,

I agree with you about not lifting as well as I used to; however, I built a stand for my SS mounted planer that places the planer at the same height as the SS way tubes. When I want to use the planer I simply move the stand (it's on casters) over to the SS and slide the planer onto the way tubes. Removing it is just the reverse. Only had to lift the planer once to put it on the stand (I got help to do that part :D ).

Now I have to figure out how to do something about the jointer which for me presents a more difficult problem. I'm not sure it doesn't weigh more than the planer even - sure feels like it when I want to use it.
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Leonard
La Vernia, TX
Wood Goods - Custom Woodwork
EMAIL: woodgoods "at" lavernia "dot" net
PowerPro 520, PowerPro 500 (was my father's 500), SS jointer, SS Mark V mount planer, SS bandsaws (2), belt sander, scroll saw, SS jig saws (2), strip sander, Jointech system, 12" Delta Compound Miter Saw, a small collection of routers, a router table and a Delta Unisaw. All in a 24' x 24' shop.
charlese
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Post by charlese »

There are a lot of Eds here. Hi to both or all!
There a two statements above that make me want to take "a little" issue. "Little issue" is because they are probably not deal breakers.

First, The Large turnings are not the only reason to own a speed reducer. The Shopsmith slow speed (750 RPM) is a little fast for larger forstner bits. Even with freshly sharpened bits - it is better to get down to 200 RPM or so to prevent burning the bit. No - I don't have a speed reducer and yes- I occasional change colors of these bits. I try to be VERY careful, keeping bits sharp, drilling only short depths and allowing cooling. Still - wish I had a speed reducer.

Second, - about dual speeds for thickness planers. Ed says he uses the fast speed most all of the time. I hope by this he mean the slowest feed speed. Using the slowest feed speed put more cuts per inch on the wood. One of the effects of the slowest feed speed is - the cutters take smaller bites, thereby prolonging their sharpness. It is good practice to always use the slowest feeding speed. (unless you are really in a hurry:rolleyes: )
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
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easterngray
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Original inquiry

Post by easterngray »

Guys I am reviving this old thread... I am still interested in replacing the table height lever with a wheel on my 500 - not enough dough on hand for the full upgrade I'm afraid. Nick - can you tell me exactly what parts I need? Is it just the wheel? Thanks again and God bless, Alec
1960 Aniversary Model Mark 5 500 "Goldie" with most SPT's
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Nick
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Post by Nick »

After the next Sawdust Session, Alec.

With all good wishes,
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easterngray
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Wheelo

Post by easterngray »

Your a good man Nick. Thanks :p Alec
1960 Aniversary Model Mark 5 500 "Goldie" with most SPT's
solicitr
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Post by solicitr »

Easterngray:

I'm afraid there are no interchangeable parts beteen the 500 and 505+ carriages. The square-section rods are different in both thickness and length; and without the handle there is nothing for the 500 lock-knob to bear against.
Bill
Richmond, Virginia
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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

solicitr wrote:Easterngray:

I'm afraid there are no interchangeable parts beteen the 500 and 505+ carriages. The square-section rods are different in both thickness and length]
I wonder how Nick did it?
Sorry, Alec; I got busy on this week's Sawdust Session. Drew is on his honeymoon and I'm busier than a two-peckered goat. Anyway, I found that you can substitute the 520 crank wheel for the 500 lever, but it gets in the way on a very few operations when the Mark V is vertical. For instance, you cannot retract the table far enough back toward the way tubes to use the drum sander table insert when you're drilling and sanding. You'll have to put a scrap of plywood or particleboard on the table when drilling; otherwise the drill will bite into the table. And you'll have to make a special table with a cutout for the drum sander to use the drum sander in the vertical position.

With all good wishes,
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Shopsmith National Woodworking Academy
Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
poihths
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Post by poihths »

I say, buy the toys! Life is too short to stint yourself. You could get run over by a truck tomorrow.

Of course, if it's food versus tools, well, boy, that's a hard one!

Bob
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JPG
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Re: Table height adjustment question...

Post by JPG »

╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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