Using the lathe

psf513 · Post by **psf513** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 4:12 pm

I am relatively new to woodworking. I bought a used 500 about a month ago and today was the lathe day. I was less than thrilled with the results I had on a 2X2 piece of yellow pine and even less happy with a 4X4 pine trimmed octagonally. What am I doing wrong?
I set the lathe up as directed in the Owners Manual. I held the 2X2 stock against the cup center and extended the quill so the drive center bit into the wood. It just kept loosening and the drive center spun until I had a hole over 1/4" deep. It just would not turn any more. The drive center just kept spinning.
Then I went to the octagonally cut 4X4 but the same thing happened. I had the headstock locked in place and had the quill locked also.

HELP!

THANKS
Pete

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 4:40 pm

psf513 wrote:I am relatively new to woodworking. I bought a used 500 about a month ago and today was the lathe day. I was less than thrilled with the results I had on a 2X2 piece of yellow pine and even less happy with a 4X4 pine trimmed octagonally. What am I doing wrong?
I set the lathe up as directed in the Owners Manual. I held the 2X2 stock against the cup center and extended the quill so the drive center bit into the wood. It just kept loosening and the drive center spun until I had a hole over 1/4" deep. It just would not turn any more. The drive center just kept spinning.
Then I went to the octagonally cut 4X4 but the same thing happened. I had the headstock locked in place and had the quill locked also.

HELP!

THANKS
Pete

First Pine is not the best wood to turn with a center spur (it is very soft), second the cup center needs to be waxed or thrown away. I rarely ever (I almost said never) use the spur center. I prefer a lathe chuck and live center.

I am not sure what you are trying to make so it is hard to be more specific, many people start with turning pens by buying a kit which includes everything you need (both accessories and material) you only provide the lathe chisels.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 6:15 pm

I use my dead center as a center punch for stock that I'm going to turn. I don't remember when I used it for anything else.

Pete, you've got to set that baby deep so that it will hold. Get yourself a leather mallet and don't be afraid to use it. Remember, no hammers!!!

psf513 · Post by **psf513** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 7:11 pm

I really wasn't trying to make anything, just get the hang of the machine. I guess I'll be looking for a new lathe chuck and live center.

THANKS

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 7:18 pm

Try turning firewood, it cheap and usually much harder.

kd6vpe · Post by **kd6vpe** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 7:24 pm

psf53,
Don't be discouraged. I did the exact same thing when I got my used 500. I glued up to pieces of a 2x4 to turn a cylinder. Man you really have to sink the drive center into the soft wood. Also put paste wax on the dead center. I had a 1/2 inch hole when all was said and done. But it did give me a cheap chance at beginning the process of learning. When I got some hardwood and turned it it was like night and day. I did end up bying a live center and a chuck myself. I have on occation used my drive center to turn small spindel to play around with but I used my live center on the other end. The dead center just makes a mess of the wood. Have fun and be safe. I learned the hard way got a nice scare on my forearm from scraping my arm on the wood while it was turning.

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 8:25 pm

Did you make an X cut on the drive end of the stock? It may help you.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 8:33 pm

Hi Pete! Let me post an opposite view from those above. I do this not to be contrary, but I have had good experiences practice turning pine, fir, oak, and poplar on the SS lathe. All of this practice was done using the standard centers sold with the Mark V.

Prior to turning, I drill a 1/8" hole about 1/4" deep in the center of both ends. Then on one end I use a coping saw or the band saw to saw cross slots on one end. Corner to corner on square stock is the easiest. These slots must cross through the center hole and be a right angles. The slots are about 1/8" deep. The drive center spurs fit into the slots. Then before mounting I'll coat the dead tail center with beeswax. I've sometimes rubbed some beeswax on the tail end of the wood, although I've found this is not necessary if there is ample wax on the tail center.

Using this procedure, that is recommended by Shopsmith, I've found absolutely no need to apply excess pressure or hammering in centers. A firm quill extension will set the drive and the tail centers quite well.

I've never lost a drive by spinning or never burned a tail. Yes, the tail will warm up and cause the beeswax to soak into the wood, and there will be a little black circle at the tail, but this will always be swan off anyway. As far as the drive center - the spurs do bite into the wood and you may see some little twist marks, but no spinning!

So far using the standard equipment, I have turned cylinders, dowels of different sizes, knobs, small finials and even one pepper mill. (face plate for the mill) However I found it to be much easier to buy and use a chuck for making more mills. This is because holes of about 1" in diameter must be drilled through the mills, with a larger counter bore at the bottom. Probably could have use the drill press for these holes, but the lathe with a chuck is easier.

Try again, with this preparation and you may find you don't need more accessories in order to make what you want. Of course if you really want to get into turning, live centers, chucks, etc. will make the process a lot easier.

Greenvilleguy · Post by **Greenvilleguy** » Sat Mar 01, 2008 10:05 pm

Pete,

Like Chuck, I frequently turn pine. I use it for practice and to make jam chucks, etc. If you follow Chuck's instructions for cutting the "Xs" and drilling a center punch, you should be fine. Pine is particularly good for spindle work practice. Once you can get a smooth finish straight from the tool on pine, hardwoods will be a piece of cake.

My Dad threw out the dead center out and replaced it with a live center before I tried turning (around 1959) so I can't speak about the dead center. I know SS used to insist that the instructors use the dead center in their demos, but the instructors were quick to switch to a live center for the classes.

I'm not saying to run out and buy a live center. The dead center will work, just not as well. By the way, any Morse Taper #2 live center will work. It doesn't have to be a SS live center.

james.miller · Post by **james.miller** » Sun Mar 02, 2008 12:30 am

I would look at your turning technique first before trying to get the spur drive center any tighter. I use a knockoff of the Sorby StebCenter which puts very little pressure on the turned piece and lets it slip with the slightest catch.

If you watch the DVD by Alan Lacer "The Skew Chisel" he uses a dead center as a drive center which is a very low friction drive. It will allow the workpiece to stop if you grab it, kind of a safety feature. He also uses a very large, 1&3/8" wide Skew to do some very small turnings.

The most important thing to do is learn from the experts hands on. Join or at least attend a wood turning club, they will help you learn the basics of turning and sharpening. If the traveling academy is in your area it is a big help with the basics. Take a class at Woodcraft or a Community College or night school at a local HS if it's available.