Miter gauge safety grip

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jimthej
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Miter gauge safety grip

Post by jimthej »

This may be a real newbie question, so I'm putting it in this forum. The last couple of days I have been cutting a number of parts out of 3/4 (one by) stock.
How do you adjust the safety grip so that it's easy to slide a workpiece under the foot without snagging, but still have it grip effectively?
I have problems sliding the last piece out and inserting the next.
Jim in Bakersfield:D
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

jimthej wrote:This may be a real newbie question, so I'm putting it in this forum. The last couple of days I have been cutting a number of parts out of 3/4 (one by) stock.
How do you adjust the safety grip so that it's easy to slide a workpiece under the foot without snagging, but still have it grip effectively?
I have problems sliding the last piece out and inserting the next.
You ARE squeezing and releasing the handle!;)

You ARE adjusting to the workpiece thickness.;)
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E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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fjimp
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Post by fjimp »

jimthej wrote:This may be a real newbie question, so I'm putting it in this forum. The last couple of days I have been cutting a number of parts out of 3/4 (one by) stock.
How do you adjust the safety grip so that it's easy to slide a workpiece under the foot without snagging, but still have it grip effectively?
I have problems sliding the last piece out and inserting the next.
Loosen the nut on the side of the upper portion of the grip and you can slide the vertical shaft up and down. Then be certain to squeeze the handle to tighten against your work. Jim
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paulmcohen
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Post by paulmcohen »

jimthej wrote:This may be a real newbie question, so I'm putting it in this forum. The last couple of days I have been cutting a number of parts out of 3/4 (one by) stock.
How do you adjust the safety grip so that it's easy to slide a workpiece under the foot without snagging, but still have it grip effectively?
I have problems sliding the last piece out and inserting the next.

If I remember correctly some early safety grips did not have the squeezable grip handle or the the easily adjustable rod. Is it possible you don't have the miter-gauge the rest of us have?
Paul Cohen
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jimthej
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Post by jimthej »

Sorry guys, I did not make myself clear. How high above the stock do you place the foot so you have good grip when you squeeze, but no interference from the foot when you insert or remove stock? I always find the foot drags on removal and since Murphy is mayor of Bakersfield, it normally tilts to interfere with the insertion of the next piece.
Jim in Bakersfield:D
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

paulmcohen wrote:If I remember correctly some early safety grips did not have the squeezable grip handle or the the easily adjustable rod. Is it possible you don't have the miter-gauge the rest of us have?
Squeeze grip always.

Older had threaded rod with knurled nut above and below the part the squeeze moves.

Both upper and lower nuts need to be 'tight'.

The spring return IS working? It should raise the 'foot' to clear the workpiece.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Niter Gauge Safety Grip

Post by dusty »

I have modified mine by adding a spring. The spring makes the adjustment for me; all I do is position the wood and release the knob which allows the spring to apply pressure top the foot. Once the foot is in place, tighten the knob. From then on, squeezing the handle applies the pressure that holds the work piece in place for the cut.

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"Making Sawdust Safely"
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algale
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Post by algale »

dusty wrote:I have modified mine by adding a spring. The spring makes the adjustment for me]17985[/ATTACH]

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Warning Off-Topic Question

Dusty,

In the background I couldn't help but notice the Shopsmith in the drill press configuration. Appears to be a 510 but at the end of the fence rail there looks to be a metal cap or some other mod. What is it and what purpose does it serve?

Also, in some of your other posts of your 520, I've seen what appear to be black rubber tips on the ends of the extension tubes? What are those and what purpose do they serve?

Al
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

algale wrote:Warning Off-Topic Question

Dusty,

In the background I couldn't help but notice the Shopsmith in the drill press configuration. Appears to be a 510 but at the end of the fence rail there looks to be a metal cap or some other mod. What is it and what purpose does it serve?

Also, in some of your other posts of your 520, I've seen what appear to be black rubber tips on the ends of the extension tubes? What are those and what purpose do they serve?

Al
The answer to both questions is the same. Only the methods are different.

In my old age, I find that I bruise much more easily than I used to. Whenever I spend a lot of time in the shop, I find that I have a lot of what looks like large blood blisters on my arms. They come from what I can "minor scraps" against items like the ends of extension tubes.

The metal caps are commercial covers from overhead hand rails salvaged from out-of-service public buses.

The other caps are rubber feet purchased at ACE Hardware.

When I find something to cover the ends of the fences and the corners of the Mark V tables, I will be fully protected.:rolleyes:
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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holsgo
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Post by holsgo »

Just drop the plunger on top of the work. Don't hover it above or force it down. Just drop it on the work, tighten and grab the handle and squeeze. Won't mar the surface.
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