I used the steel bar to line up and drill the holes. When mounting the motor, the top screw on both sides went in fine as did the two other screws on the far side. The remaining holes on the near (switch) side don't seem to line up - the ones on the bracket seem a little high of the ones I drilled - has anyone run into this? Any ideas what to do from here - Shopsmith is out until Monday so they are no help. I'm nearly ready to pack this up and ship it all back.
All better now!
Power Pro Assembly problem
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Power Pro Assembly problem FIXED
SS MV 520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, belt sander, mortise unit, biscut jointer, speed reducer, tool rest upgrade, sliding cross cut table, DC3300
I'm note really sure what is going on but if you used the drilling template as instructed then the holes should be in the correct locations.
Perhaps it would be best to back the motor back out and check the drilling verses the guide. If they align then you did everything correctly and it is time for take two on the mounting.
I'd then check to see if you have the motor/headstock at the correct distance off the main table. You need to get this visual alignment right before you connect the wires.
When you start putting the screws in you will be working on only the top ones on each side. Do not tighten too far at this point, if you are engaging the countersink with the screws taper you are too tight.
The "stage" will need to be removed so you can do the tilt and put the belt on. You need to fold the wires pretty well or they can get in the way. At this point you will also be engaging the belt tension so it will take some force pushing on the bottom of the motor to get it pushed in and the holes aligned. Again attempt to do one at a time and only get them part way in. They should thread in pretty easy, if not you may have cross threaded them.... that is a no no.
Make sure you review this section on the DVD as it covers it better then the manual. In some cases you might have to look ahead in the manual to the maintenance section and read up on the motor belt tension. You may need to make an adjustment before you can get the motor to fit. If the motor is too far back in the mounts it may have to be adjusted for less tension before going on.
Don't give up but do take a break and read and watch the instructions again.
Ed
Perhaps it would be best to back the motor back out and check the drilling verses the guide. If they align then you did everything correctly and it is time for take two on the mounting.
I'd then check to see if you have the motor/headstock at the correct distance off the main table. You need to get this visual alignment right before you connect the wires.
When you start putting the screws in you will be working on only the top ones on each side. Do not tighten too far at this point, if you are engaging the countersink with the screws taper you are too tight.
The "stage" will need to be removed so you can do the tilt and put the belt on. You need to fold the wires pretty well or they can get in the way. At this point you will also be engaging the belt tension so it will take some force pushing on the bottom of the motor to get it pushed in and the holes aligned. Again attempt to do one at a time and only get them part way in. They should thread in pretty easy, if not you may have cross threaded them.... that is a no no.
Make sure you review this section on the DVD as it covers it better then the manual. In some cases you might have to look ahead in the manual to the maintenance section and read up on the motor belt tension. You may need to make an adjustment before you can get the motor to fit. If the motor is too far back in the mounts it may have to be adjusted for less tension before going on.
Don't give up but do take a break and read and watch the instructions again.
Ed
Can you post a pic? I've done a couple of these DIY upgrades. What model headstock did you modify? My experience has only been on Model C headstocks. My first attempt had one problem in drilling the countersink holes as the 2-piece countersink bit was covered in oil for corrosion protection & slipped. I didn't have a metric Allen to tighten/loosen the set screw to take the countersink apart. I did my upgrade on a Sunday- no one to call as well. So I simply completed the countersink by using vise grips and taking my time. I had one of the first 10 kits shipped back in Aug 2010. On Memorial Day I bought a second DIY PowerPro to put on a 520 I picked up. This was back in June 2012. I have to say every tiny issue I encountered during the first upgrade had been addressed to include the addition of a new power switch.
I encourage you to use the manual and check off each step as there have been a few minor changes since Jim McCan made the DVD where he completed a DIY upgrade.
Tony
I'm including a couple of pics. One of each side of the motor on my first PowerPro headstock upgrade. Hope it helps. If you have any questions, please ask.
I encourage you to use the manual and check off each step as there have been a few minor changes since Jim McCan made the DVD where he completed a DIY upgrade.
Tony
I'm including a couple of pics. One of each side of the motor on my first PowerPro headstock upgrade. Hope it helps. If you have any questions, please ask.
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One Greenie, Two Mark 7s,Three 510s and much more…
Is this a great forum or what! Nothing here but very friendly and helpful co-conspirators.... Thanks for the input and photos. I'll post some a bit later today and give it another try
Mark
Mark
SS MV 520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, belt sander, mortise unit, biscut jointer, speed reducer, tool rest upgrade, sliding cross cut table, DC3300
markap wrote:Is this a great forum or what! Nothing here but very friendly and helpful co-conspirators.... Thanks for the input and photos. I'll post some a bit later today and give it another try
Mark
Good - don't give up yet! Do just like ED reible said in post #2.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Alright done! I had to enlarge the holes in the casting a bit and all is well now. Apparently there is just enough slop in the fit of the steel bar jig to allow the two sides to be slightly off from each other. After enlarging (slightly) the holes on the one side all is good
It's built and running smooth and quiet!
It's built and running smooth and quiet!
SS MV 520, bandsaw, jointer, planer, belt sander, mortise unit, biscut jointer, speed reducer, tool rest upgrade, sliding cross cut table, DC3300
The screws do need to sit flush so the motor cover will sit flat. I remember I just had to take my time doing the countersinking as it would be easy to drill too deep or like Ed reible said, it is easy to cross thread the screws.
Congratulations and welcome to DVR world. 10,000 RPM is something else- isn't it? There are a lot of You Tube videos put on by Doug Reid that show the DVR PowerPro in action.
Shopsmith has done a great job in making this mod an easy one especially since the first 10 went out. The DVD is also very helpful in doing the mod, but I think Jim modified a Model B headstock as I recall. Plus this is a great forum in sharing info & help.
Waiting to see your pics. One of the corner black clips for the motor cover slipped off on me last night when I took the pics. I looked everywhere, but if you look on one of the pics, the clip was on the motor the entire time...lol.
Congratulations and welcome to DVR world. 10,000 RPM is something else- isn't it? There are a lot of You Tube videos put on by Doug Reid that show the DVR PowerPro in action.
Shopsmith has done a great job in making this mod an easy one especially since the first 10 went out. The DVD is also very helpful in doing the mod, but I think Jim modified a Model B headstock as I recall. Plus this is a great forum in sharing info & help.
Waiting to see your pics. One of the corner black clips for the motor cover slipped off on me last night when I took the pics. I looked everywhere, but if you look on one of the pics, the clip was on the motor the entire time...lol.
One Greenie, Two Mark 7s,Three 510s and much more…