One in the same?

teamtj · Post by **teamtj** » Thu Oct 11, 2012 3:50 pm

On my Shopsmith, are routing and shaping the same thing, except routing is done from above and shaping from below?

I've used the other 5 modes of the SS, but not these 2. I'd like to try the last 2, but my ignorance of them (and not knowing how to set them up) has kept me from doing so.

Thanks!

SDSSmith · Post by **SDSSmith** » Thu Oct 11, 2012 4:24 pm

As you are using a Mark 7 Power Pro, you can do the operations above or below. The difference is in the cutters. Not to state the obvious, but routing uses router bits held in the router chuck. Shaping uses shaper cutters mounted on the 1/2" shaper arbor. You will need to adjust the PP rotational direction based on the way the cutter is mounted.

teamtj · Post by **teamtj** » Thu Oct 11, 2012 4:45 pm

So I can both route and shape from above or below and the only difference is the cutters?

What, then, differentiates the 2? What constitutes shaping rather than routing?

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Thu Oct 11, 2012 4:52 pm

teamtj wrote:On my Shopsmith, are routing and shaping the same thing, except routing is done from above and shaping from below?

I've used the other 5 modes of the SS, but not these 2. I'd like to try the last 2, but my ignorance of them (and not knowing how to set them up) has kept me from doing so.

Thanks!

Shaper cutters are usually much larger then router bits and sometimes can be stacked to build complex profiles. Shapers only work on the edge of a board and are usually guided by a bearing. The biggest differences which do not apply to the Shopsmith is speed and reversibility, router bits are generally designed to run at greater than 20,000 RPM in one direction (with the speed increaser or PowerPro the Shopsmith will run at 10K). Shaper bits are usually designed to run at 10,000 RPM or less and shapers are reversible (only the PowerPro reverses). The reversing allows cutters to be used upside down to allow more flexibility in profile access and cutting uphill or downhill.

All that said, I have a PowerPro and both the shaper and router and am constantly confused which I should use for a particular operation, something it is obvious (because I have a complex profile already in a Shaper blade), sometimes it is choice like doing a rabbit on the edge of a board where I could use the router, shaper, jointer, or table saw with dado blade.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Oct 12, 2012 2:13 am

Dare I mention 'molder'?:D

shipwright · Post by **shipwright** » Fri Oct 12, 2012 9:57 am

One other thing about shapers is that most experienced woodworkers who own one consider it the most dangerous tool in their shop. The cutter size and speed really make you sit up and take notice.
They are much better now with blades that lock into well designed modern cutterheads but they used to be known for launching razor sharp high speed projectiles that could penetrate walls.

Paul M

stephen_a._draper · Post by **stephen_a._draper** » Fri Oct 12, 2012 11:08 am

Shaper cutters have three cuts per revolution and router bits only have two cuts per revolution. That means that at 10,000 RPM your get 30,000 cuts per minute on the shaper and only 20,000 cuts per minute on the router. The shaper operation will yield a smoother cut with less tear out than the router. If you have the traditional Mark V headstock you will really notice the difference at 5200 RPM.

easterngray · Post by **easterngray** » Sat Oct 13, 2012 9:24 am

Morgan you ought to pick up a copy of POWER TOOL WOODWORKING FOR EVERYBODY. It will cover all the potential uses of your Shopsmith, including the SPT's. Cheers, Alec

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Sun Oct 14, 2012 4:26 am

stephen_a._draper wrote:Shaper cutters have three cuts per revolution and router bits only have two cuts per revolution. That means that at 10,000 RPM your get 30,000 cuts per minute on the shaper and only 20,000 cuts per minute on the router. The shaper operation will yield a smoother cut with less tear out than the router. If you have the traditional Mark V headstock you will really notice the difference at 5200 RPM.

Just to confuse things even more, Freud makes bits that take 4 cuts per revolution.
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=31110&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CLu4ydiKgLMCFeeDQgodUQMAsw

brad_nalor · Post by **brad_nalor** » Wed Oct 17, 2012 5:01 pm

If you're looking for versatility, one single bit like the Porter Cable Multi-form or from Amana is amazing. NOT FOR handheld routers. Dual edged, wide range profile and 1/2" shank for speeds up to 12,000 rpm. I love my older PC multi-forms on the SS. I've made some special inserts for the SS and especially with the tilt table, works quite well. Not keen on using them on MDF (eats up bits) but really a beautiful versatile bit for slower speeds, decent feed rate without burning hardwoods.