Finish question
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Finish question
It's time to finish the table I made ( http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/attachm ... 1349925279 ) and my wife picked the color Golden Oak Satin (http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/one ... es#Colors), but on a test piece of wood, something doesn't seem right. I am really looking for a hard, shiny finish...do I need something more?
I haven't finished any wood since 1991, so I am unsure what to do...
Thanks!
I haven't finished any wood since 1991, so I am unsure what to do...
Thanks!
Morgan
Blue Springs, MO
SS Mark 7 PP
Blue Springs, MO
SS Mark 7 PP
Poly Shades comes in both satin and gloss finish, according to the web site. Try the gloss version of the finish, but it may take a few coats to both seal the wood and provide a glossy finish. The satin version contains silica to dull down the finish.
You possibly can apply a coat or two of a gloss polyurethane (solvent based, not water based) over the satin Poly Shades to achieve the glossy surface you desire, but finishing is a matter of experimenting until you find what you like.
You possibly can apply a coat or two of a gloss polyurethane (solvent based, not water based) over the satin Poly Shades to achieve the glossy surface you desire, but finishing is a matter of experimenting until you find what you like.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
For starters, if you want a shiny finish, glossy rather than satin is going to be the way to go. You mentioned you also want the finish hard - have you considered a polyurethane finish? This is what's routinely used on hardwood floors and is highly durable, as well as coming in glossy (and other types as well) finish.
The polyshades is a stain and polyurethane mixed together. You will not like the finish look and the product has a tendency to run after you walk away from applying it. I know I have used it. I have also used Golden Oak on pine and it doesn't look so well. Try shellac I think you will like it. Look at a couple of videos on you tube to get educated. If like the color of the wood already you just apply a couple coats wipe on poly if you dont want to do shellac. Before staining you will want to apply prestain to prevent blotching due to uneven absorption of the stain.
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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I resist doing furniture for this very reason. I just do not have what it takes to put a good finish on furniture. I enjoy building up to the point of preparation for finish and applying same.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do. I admire those who do this.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do. I admire those who do this.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Varnish looks pretty good on most furniture but not the polyurethane varnish.
You can also let try oil-varnish mix .
try reading this article about furniture finish, http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00060.asp .
You can also let try oil-varnish mix .
try reading this article about furniture finish, http://www.finewoodworking.com/pages/w00060.asp .
Boy. Oh Boy! You asked a powerful question and have already received a number of differing answers. All of the above answers and references are excellent, depending on their personal preferences and points of view. Recommendations concerning finishes on furniture will always have divergent points and methods. You have tried one method and didn't care for it. Your true solution is to read recommendations from recognized finishing experts and use your own trial and error. There is no quick and fast recommendation that will necessarily fit your desires.
Remember how you put on a Finnish back in 1991? If you remember, you can try that method again.
My personal method - used on red oak - is to use Watco golden oak finish. this is flooded onto the surface and then wiped off. Now it takes several days to dry during which the bubbles of stain coming up from the open pores must be wiped away. After dry, I use polyurethane clear floor Finnish. I like to use gloss Finnish and if I want more of a satin - lightly sand the finish with 600 grit sandpaper. I use disposable foam brushes to apply the polyurethane.
Water based polyurethane doesn't smell so bad as oil based and is as durable as oil - and drys a whole lot faster. Water based will not alter the color of the stain, and oil based will add a slightly yellow tint.
Remember how you put on a Finnish back in 1991? If you remember, you can try that method again.
My personal method - used on red oak - is to use Watco golden oak finish. this is flooded onto the surface and then wiped off. Now it takes several days to dry during which the bubbles of stain coming up from the open pores must be wiped away. After dry, I use polyurethane clear floor Finnish. I like to use gloss Finnish and if I want more of a satin - lightly sand the finish with 600 grit sandpaper. I use disposable foam brushes to apply the polyurethane.
Water based polyurethane doesn't smell so bad as oil based and is as durable as oil - and drys a whole lot faster. Water based will not alter the color of the stain, and oil based will add a slightly yellow tint.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
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What Chuck said. I'll add to keep in mind that even the most exhaustive testing may still yield slightly different result to you final finished pieces. Due to slight differences in wood. That's just one of the things you have to deal with when working with wood.
I also recommend viewing any test pieces or samples in the same room that the finished furniture will be in. Lighting does make a difference on the actual look.
I also recommend viewing any test pieces or samples in the same room that the finished furniture will be in. Lighting does make a difference on the actual look.
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Good reason to save some scrap pieces from whatever you build so you have pieces of the same wood to test different finishes on.terrydowning wrote:What Chuck said. I'll add to keep in mind that even the most exhaustive testing may still yield slightly different result to you final finished pieces. Due to slight differences in wood. That's just one of the things you have to deal with when working with wood.
I also recommend viewing any test pieces or samples in the same room that the finished furniture will be in. Lighting does make a difference on the actual look.
- terrydowning
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I've had pieces of the same piece of wood (notably maple) finish slightly differently though, due to varying grain density and of course an inconsistent application.
--
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX