Mortise Questions

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mrhart
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Mortise Questions

Post by mrhart »

The latest project requires a mortise of 1" x 3/4" through a glue up of left-over maple flooring. So its not a deep hole, less than an inch. I bought a new forstner 3/4" bit and a new 3/4" Pfeil chisel. I was tinkering around on a test piece and its pretty hard stuff. And drilling 2 holes that overlap that much may not be the best idea. Could someone outline their step by step process for doing this? I need to make 8 holes in the maple and then 8 more of the same in some walnut.
R Hart
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Layout your mortise then drill a hole at each end. Drill out the section that was left. Sharpen your chisel and clean up the mortise with it.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Drill each end alternatively with shallow depth. No more than 1/8" til you determine deeper will work.

Clamping the workpiece is necessary since the center will not contact the center of the 'current' hole until its depth matches the previously drilled one.

More accurate description: Drill one hole to 1/8" depth. Move to the other end and drill 1/8" deeper than the first. Repeat. The last operation prior to drilling through needs to be very slowly fed.

Take the same approach with the chisel(a little at a time).

If possible, drill half way through and flip over and drill from the back side so 'breakthrough' occurs in the center rather than an outside surface.
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fjimp
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Post by fjimp »

Keep the chisel scary sharp. I recently assisted my daughter in making an apartment ready for renting. One task included adjusting door hardware so the latch worked on three doors. I discovered my chisel dulled very quickly and I had not taken a sharpener with me. Sharp chisels are essential. Jim
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mrhart
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Post by mrhart »

I drilled all the holes on the ER with the new 3/4" bit. Nice.

Then did the layout with a pencil on the outline of the future mortise. My 3/4" chisel I believe may be too big for the task, it would be the right size for final clean-up but I think maybe a 3/8" would be better to get the corners ect. I saw a small crack start when I was using the 3/4.

Would that make sense?? I think I need another tool?
R Hart
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

mrhart wrote:
Would that make sense?? I think I need another tool?

It ALWAYS makes SENSE that ya need ANOTHER tool. :)
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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mrhart
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Post by mrhart »

Should I be using a narrower chisel?
R Hart
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mrhart wrote:Should I be using a narrower chisel?
What on earth makes you think that?:D

1/2" oughta work.;)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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benush26
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Post by benush26 »

fjimp wrote:Keep the chisel scary sharp. I recently assisted my daughter in making an apartment ready for renting. One task included adjusting door hardware so the latch worked on three doors. I discovered my chisel dulled very quickly and I had not taken a sharpener with me. Sharp chisels are essential. Jim
Amen to the scary sharp! and I agree with that another tool is a good thing :D
But as far as needing to go to a smaller chisel. you might want to watch this

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYpxhYHM ... ure=relmfu
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