pen question

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algale
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Post by algale »

I'm considering giving this pen thing a go. But I'm not sure if there's really anything that's needed or even an advantage over what I've already got: a standard Mark V 520 plus (a) the G3 chuck and (b) the tail stock morse taper adapter that allows the drill chuck (or sanding disc) to be mounted in the tail stock.

For instance, what advantages are there to using the drill press vice over, say, drilling the blank in horizontal boring mode and holding it with the miter gauge or holding the blank in the G3 and drilling it using the drill chuck mounted in the tailstock?

What advantages are there to using one of the barrel trimmers versus using the sanding disc attached either to the quill and using the miter gauge to hold it or or holding the blank in the chuck and mounting the sanding disc on the tail stock?

Thanks for any input.

Al
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rpd
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Post by rpd »

stickthrower wrote:I've seen those vises at woodcraft too. Do you need one to make pens or can you do it without? Curious if I am going to have to get that as well before i can start, or if I can start without one and get one later on.

Here is a YouTube video by capneddie that covers what you need and what you can get by without when you start turning pens.

104 basic pen turning

If you havn't discovered him yet he has a lot of great videos on turning and how to make some of your own turning tools.
Ron Dyck
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tomsalwasser
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Post by tomsalwasser »

Well I ordered the Shopsmith pen mandrel from Penn State. It's on sale right now and does not seem to be available anywhere else. I needed to add a few items to qualify for free shipping so I ordered the mandrel saver and drilling center vise too. Everything else I can get locally at Woodcraft or Rockler. Thanks for the advice and video links. Looking forward too making pens!
pennview
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Post by pennview »

Al, try all the drilling methods you mention and see which you prefer. Using the Nova chuck to hold the blank should give you good alignment for drilling in the center of the blank and it's fast. I prefer the trimmer for squaring the ends of the blank. If you use the sanding disk, just remember that you want the blank ends perpendicular to the tubes. The trimmer does this automatically, but not so with the sanding disk.
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fiatben
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My experience

Post by fiatben »

Personally, I prefer horizontal boring over drill press mode. You can build a simple jig (or not) and I like being able to see what I'm doing (plus not lifting the unit into vertical mode). I use a barrel trimmer because, as stated, it does automatically square up the ends. I use a small bench vise for assembly, having never seen what I would gain with a dedicated pen vise (but I've never used one so I really can't say.)

My advise; read up on what others do, buy whatever accessories you can afford to start with and add on others later as you find the addiction growing and see the need, but mostly ... get TURNING!!! :D
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eagleta2
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Post by eagleta2 »

I realize I'm a little late to this thread...but I wanted to mention that I use wood n whimsies for most of my turning supplies.

I use the as mandrel and mandrel saver they offer... and their prices on kits are the best I have found...

Nope, I don't work for them...they are just good people to work with and I really like buying from a small mom and pop place...

Thanks
Geo
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reible
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Post by reible »

If pen turning brings you happiness then go for it.

I like it but I have not fallen in love with it. I don't think I will ever have 1000's of builds to my name, not unless things change and I'm limited somehow to only making pens.

I have now built enough that I've got opinions on things and have changed several aspects from my "early" days. I've also experimented with a few things and changed my mind on certain processes.

I started by doing runs of 1 to 3 pens. This takes more time then I want to spend because of the getting set up and then have to reset up for the next operation. I now do things like cutting blanks (from scrap wood) so I have at least a dozen to continue on with.

When I cut the blanks to size I make them much closer to the tube length then the instructions give.

I drill using the G3 chuck to hold the wood with a fixed drill on the tail stock. I can drill at a rapid fashion without to much worry about alignment and breakout. To date no breakouts at all. I do all 24 parts at a time.

I've tried several methods and glues to glue the barrels in. I like to use the water activated stuff. I use a spray bottle to wet the inside of the blank then put glue on a sheet of wax paper. Using a pen tube insertion tool I "roll" the insert in the glue and make sure it is wet all over. I then insert it in to the pen blank twisting as I go. Once centered I set aside to dry, overnight. I do all 24 parts like this.

The next step I've opted for the barrel trimmer after my first method of sanding because it cleans the barrel and trims the wood in one step and it seems faster. I do all the blanks at one time.

The turning is then done one at a time. I have a shaft I mount in my 1/4" router chuck and have added a pen center, both from the woodtunerscatalog.

I use a carbide insert type lathe tool to get to near size. I then go to an easy pen turner for a finish and sizing.

One of my early mistakes was starting the sanding at 150 git... this leaves marks worse then those left by the turning and a pain to get rid of. I have learned to start at 320 or 400. Of course it depends on what the turned blank looks/feels like. I go us to 12000 grit. By the way if your lathe can run in reverse use the feature for the sanding operations.

I use the shopsmith as a pen assembly press with the aid of an assembly tool. Pretty much from start to finish a shopsnith project.

Weather permitting I have another dozen to do this year.

What I do like about pen making is people really seem to like them as gifts, and they are a low effort fast project with good results.

I have been thinking about making pens and storing them up for the grandchildren so when they are older and can appreciate them they will be there where I might not be. Anyone done that?

Ed
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stickthrower
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Post by stickthrower »

Ed, thanks for the write up! I can't wait to start. I can't say I will be addicted, but the woodworking bug has definitely taken a bite.

Then you everybody! I really appreciate all your feedback! I can't wait to get started. I have some older wood from a dining room table of my grandparents. so once I have figured out what I am doing, I may try to make a pen from some of the smaller pieces.

I have been using the shopsmith mainly to make a mess so far with the lathe. I am taking it apart to do a cleaning and oil it up, and then I am going to start making things I hope.

Nathan
central MN
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stickthrower
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Post by stickthrower »

Ron, thanks for the link to Capn Eddie. I hadn't seen him before, but I have watched a few of his videos already.

Okay, have another question for you all.

What is the difference of buying a single barrel trimmer for the 7 mm versus buying the 7 pc universal? From what I saw, most of the pens I would be starting with are the 7mm, so do I really need to spend the extra for the universal right now?

Nathan
central MN
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terrydowning
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Post by terrydowning »

The 7mm will work as that is the smallest size pen barrel.

If you start making larger barrel pens, just make a sleeve to fit over the shaft of the trimmer that fits inside of the larger barrel.

Or don't use barrel trimmer to square your blanks.

I use the disc sander.

Slightly elevate the tailstock
Place a drill bit or punch the same ID as your glued barrel in your tailstock mounted drill chuck

Place your tubed barrel on the punch

Advance the quill with the disc sander to sand off the barrel to the desired length and it will be square.

This works great especially when doing an assembly line type of operation.
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