$50 Shopsmith

[dgale]

I'll double-check that switch tomorrow but it definitely was on the motor and said forward/reverse. I didn't even pay attention but I assume the on/off switch is on the headstock (?). How does one tell if it is a 10E or a 10 ER? Any way to tell the manufacturing year?

[skou]

I'll double-check that switch tomorrow but it definitely was on the motor and said forward/reverse. I didn't even pay attention but I assume the on/off switch is on the headstock (?). How does one tell if it is a 10E or a 10 ER? Any way to tell the manufacturing year?

The easiest way is if the tailstock has a single bolt in it, (for the extension table) and the extension bracket is cast iron. That would be an ER. The 10 E has a wooden ext table, and it's bracket is aluminum.

Also, the table saw fence is not full length, with a back end clamp.

Although, both of those can be changed, by the original owners.

JPG, when I got my first ER, (really an updated E model, with the weak fence, but the newer ext table) it came with NO literature, and this was before AlGore invented the internet. Let's just call it trial and error.

Oh, you should really be re-adjusting the motor spacing at EVERY move, by the book. (I just tightened the right side setscrew, and lifted the motor to change the belt.)

Since I have the DC variable speed motor, mine is at 3-3 most of the time.

steve

[skou]

Any way to tell the manufacturing year?

Does yours have the ID plate? The serial number is a good lead. It will also say where it was built. Most of them are from SSF, but some from the east coast. My first was a model 10E, serial number R 24996, if my memory is still decent. That made it an ER model, with an updated nameplate.

[dgale]

It has two extension tables - one at each end...is that normal? One is wood and I can't recall but I think the other is aluminum. I also seem to recall the serial # was a 4-digit # starting with 6 and I don't remember a letter with it but I'll look closer tomorrow. It also doesn't have any sort of pulley guard on the top or bottom - is that normal or is there a missing guard?

[JPG]

I'll double-check that switch tomorrow but it definitely was on the motor and said forward/reverse. I didn't even pay attention but I assume the on/off switch is on the headstock (?). How does one tell if it is a 10E or a 10 ER? Any way to tell the manufacturing year?

The 10E quill spring housing is plain jane. The 10ER is graduated to reflect quill movement.

The miter gauge is different. The 10ER more closely resembles the M5/V.

The 10E rip fence has large cap screws on top and does not have a rear clamp.

AS mentioned, the extension table is aluminum on the ER. The 10E used a home made 'top' on the aluminum bracket. The fence was attached by two screws through the top.

The 10E tailstock was non adjustable, and the casting has two captive bolts for attaching the extension table bracket.

The trunion is different.


If there is enough interest, I could start a thread that has pix of the parts differences. I do not have all, but could do most of them.

Bear in mind the 10ER evolved through it's production run. There are different versions of 10ER parts.

[reible]

Well, kinda.

You can go to different pulleys, and get different speeds. The belt does not have to go straight up and down, although I wouldn't jump 2 steps.

In other words, you don't have to run (postition a would be the pulley groove furthest away from the headstock) a-a, b-b or c-c. You an run a-b, b-a or whatever you want. That will give you some more intermediate speeds.

Of course, the speedchanger is the best solution. (Outside of a DC conversion, that is.)

steve

I've used drill presses that were designed with the ability to use off set pulleys and they work quite well. I'm talking cheap models up to commercial machines. I have never attempted that on my 10ER but it would likely work. I've never seen that mentioned on the 10ER but so long as you are setting the tension to the light side I see no reason it can't be done. I would stay one step above or below is the limit as that is what drill presses seem to have allowed.

My new 10ER has a speed changer so I don't think I will bother testing this out.

Ed

[dgale]

Here's some photos of my new friend - it's definitely a 10E based on the name plate and the serial# is 6149 (no letter code included). Any idea when this was made? I'm also curious about the two extension tables - it seems like one is a 10E table and the other is a 10ER table based on the above descriptions. Did these only come with one extension table and a PO ended up with a second one somewhere? The motor is a Montgomery Wards motor, which I presume is original (?) based both on it's apparent age and also weren't these older units sold fairly heavily through Montgomery Wards? As shown in the last photo, it has a forward/reverse switch - any idea if this is original or added? It shows a fair amount of age as well, so if added, it was done a while ago.

[dgale]

[skou]

Looks like you lucked out. That motor is not the AO Smith ones that most ERs usually ended up with. Also, they had the switch mounted in that hole, just below the nameplate, while yours has the switch integral with the motor.

Yes, someone got the ER extension table for that one. If it were mine, I'd get another ER extension table, and have one on eaither end, (or the capability to do so.) If you can find the ext table mounting bracket, with the 9 inch long arm, you can mount the tailstock upside down, and still get the right height to use the saw. You can also drop the ext table below the quill level, for Hz drilling of long stock.

$50? You scored!

steve

[dgale]

I assume given that it's a 10E and has what I presume is a low serial # that it must be from the 40's and not the 50's as the seller thought (?)