find center of board
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find center of board
Some time ago i thought i seen a way to find center of board.
yes, you can measure to find center. Example to find the center of
the edge of a 3/4 inch thick board. Things are foggy on this.
May have been a tool for this or useing a compass, etc. etc.?????????
minus 4 degrees here this morning so, maybe will take a while to warm
the neurons up today.......... thanks
yes, you can measure to find center. Example to find the center of
the edge of a 3/4 inch thick board. Things are foggy on this.
May have been a tool for this or useing a compass, etc. etc.?????????
minus 4 degrees here this morning so, maybe will take a while to warm
the neurons up today.......... thanks
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
oldc6 wrote:Some time ago i thought i seen a way to find center of board.
yes, you can measure to find center. Example to find the center of
the edge of a 3/4 inch thick board. Things are foggy on this.
May have been a tool for this or useing a compass, etc. etc.?????????
minus 4 degrees here this morning so, maybe will take a while to warm
the neurons up today.......... thanks
I use an adjustable combination square.
Guess first, scribe a line from both sides and the lines will be 2x the 'guess error'.
Move the square half the error distance and it will be set to equal the center distance from both sides.
You can either use it as set or read the distance from the square scale.
BTW I always mark from both sides when laying out an edge center.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I don't understand. Using a combination square I would mark a 45 degree line from each side, forming an 'X' - no guessing about it. Center of x should be on center line of board.JPG40504 wrote:I use an adjustable combination square.
Guess first, scribe a line from both sides and the lines will be 2x the 'guess error'.
Move the square half the error distance and it will be set to equal the center distance from both sides.
You can either use it as set or read the distance from the square scale.
BTW I always mark from both sides when laying out an edge center.
Edit: Yea, I was confused and I hope no one wasted too much time trying figure out how to respond. My answer required having the same reference points start each 45 degree starting point along the edge - lots of places for error to be introduced.
Sam in Northfield, MN
A day without beer......could have been better

Mark V 500 - S/N 100990, Mark V 510 - S/N missing, SS Band Saw, SS 6" Belt Sander, SS 4" Jointer, SS Scroll Saw, SS DC3300
A day without beer......could have been better
Mark V 500 - S/N 100990, Mark V 510 - S/N missing, SS Band Saw, SS 6" Belt Sander, SS 4" Jointer, SS Scroll Saw, SS DC3300
Set 3/8" on your combination square. With a sharp pencil draw a line by holding the pencil point against the end of the combination square's ruler. Now do the same thing (without re-setting the ruler) sliding the square down the opposite side of the board.
Now you probably have two lines. The true center of the board is between the lines.
I happen to have a combination square with holes in the center of the ruler. I can set the pencil in one of the holes and do the same thing as above. The advantage here is there is less chance of the pencil slipping out of position.
Now you probably have two lines. The true center of the board is between the lines.
I happen to have a combination square with holes in the center of the ruler. I can set the pencil in one of the holes and do the same thing as above. The advantage here is there is less chance of the pencil slipping out of position.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- RobertTaylor
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center of a board
i use a "center" rule to find the center of flat boards. it a 24 inch ruler with 0 in the center. lay it at an angle across a board at say eight inches on each side and put a mark at 0. do it twice and draw through those two marks and you have the center. google center finding ruler for more/better info
http://craftybev.com/how2cfr.html
http://craftybev.com/how2cfr.html
Bob
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
1954 greenie, 1963 anniversary edition now a mini,
1984 500, 1985 510, 1987 510, pro-planer, bandsaw, dust collector
I also use a center rule. However math to find center of 3/4" board (assuming it really measures 3/4" which most do not) multiply quarters into eights and divide by 2. 3/4 to eights would be 6/8ths so 1/2 would be 3/8." Now if I were to use that method I would then set my sliding square at 3/8" and measure from both sides just to be certain. Frankly I like using the two 45 degree lines and using the center point better. Yeah I know I am lazy. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
Lakewood, Colorado:)
When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
- JPG
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Y'all (except Charlese) are making a simple task 'complicated'. 
Nowhere did we say anything about 45 degree lines!
Center rule ok and convenient for long stuff, but reading it is still necessary.
Reason for using a combination square is the ability to set the end relative to the base.
FWIW a mortise gauge would work as well(maybe better!).
Nowhere did we say anything about 45 degree lines!
Center rule ok and convenient for long stuff, but reading it is still necessary.
Reason for using a combination square is the ability to set the end relative to the base.
FWIW a mortise gauge would work as well(maybe better!).
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
joedw00 wrote:I like the Center-Finding Ruler. I will see if one of my wife's quilt shops has them. Thanks Bob for the link.
It can also be bought here.
http://www.woodcraft.com/product/200044 ... nless.aspx
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob