New Guy, Old Tool

Forum for people who are new to woodworking. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

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skou
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Joined: Fri Feb 16, 2007 2:53 am
Location: Mesa (near Phoenix) Az

Post by skou »

dgale wrote:Just turn the crank and it should speed up/slow down. If it isn't doing this, take it all apart and clean and lube it as it's probably corroded together and hence doesn't work.
As has been noted, do NOT crank the crank, unless the speedchanger is off the machine, or the belts are turning. (You can put the sanding disc on, and turn it whilst trying to adjust the speedchanger, or take the device off, and try.) The shaft that adjusts, WILL break the ears off the adjuster, if these instructions aren't followed. and you'll have ANOTHER ER speedchanger that needs welding.

Get the right belts for the speedchanger. Skip sells the good ones, for a reason. You want a cut belt. the sides will look like they've been machined, because they've been machined. The inside will look like it is a cogged belt, because those cogged-looking belts bend better.

You've got 1/2 or 3/4 HP to play with. The speedchanger will absorb some of that. Keep the changer clean and lubed, and the belts adjusted properly. Running the ER as a table-saw, use a single belt. You'll get more power. (For most uses, the table-saw is the only function that is lacking on power.)

As a drill-press, the ER is pretty well un-matched. The Shopsmith factory is STILL using ER drill-presses to build the Mk7 Second version! (Wanna know why? The ER is a better drill-press! Sorry to you MkWhatever guys.)

steve
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

skou wrote:As has been noted, do NOT crank the crank, unless the speedchanger is off the machine, or the belts are turning. (You can put the sanding disc on, and turn it whilst trying to adjust the speedchanger, or take the device off, and try.) The shaft that adjusts, WILL break the ears off the adjuster, if these instructions aren't followed. and you'll have ANOTHER ER speedchanger that needs welding.

Get the right belts for the speedchanger. Skip sells the good ones, for a reason. You want a cut belt. the sides will look like they've been machined, because they've been machined. The inside will look like it is a cogged belt, because those cogged-looking belts bend better.

You've got 1/2 or 3/4 HP to play with. The speedchanger will absorb some of that. Keep the changer clean and lubed, and the belts adjusted properly. Running the ER as a table-saw, use a single belt. You'll get more power. (For most uses, the table-saw is the only function that is lacking on power.)

As a drill-press, the ER is pretty well un-matched. The Shopsmith factory is STILL using ER drill-presses to build the Mk7 Second version! (Wanna know why? The ER is a better drill-press! Sorry to you MkWhatever guys.)

steve
They are also 'paid' for decades ago.

As long as the CI is solid, they should run forever(bearings are replacable).
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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