Plans to do a Rebuild Gone Bad
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- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Plans to do a Rebuild Gone Bad
It has been a plan to complete a rebuild on my original Mark V this week but now I am not sure that I am ready to start.
I thought that I had collected all the required parts but when I began I realized that I do not have a new Drive Sleeve Assembly (518145). Apparently I used the one I had purchased for the rebuild that turned into my Shorty.
I believe I can get bearings at Motion Industries (here in Tucson) but I am uncertain about my ability to remove and replace bearings on the Drive Sleeve Assembly.
Do I need a bearing puller and/or bearing press to replace this set of bearings. It looks as though it should be pretty straight forward but those are often the tasks that bury me in my own self made problems.
Looking for advise and/or words of caution.
I thought that I had collected all the required parts but when I began I realized that I do not have a new Drive Sleeve Assembly (518145). Apparently I used the one I had purchased for the rebuild that turned into my Shorty.
I believe I can get bearings at Motion Industries (here in Tucson) but I am uncertain about my ability to remove and replace bearings on the Drive Sleeve Assembly.
Do I need a bearing puller and/or bearing press to replace this set of bearings. It looks as though it should be pretty straight forward but those are often the tasks that bury me in my own self made problems.
Looking for advise and/or words of caution.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- terrydowning
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1678
- Joined: Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:26 pm
- Location: Windsor, CO
A bearing puller is good to use to remove the bearings.
Some auto parts stores will loan these or they will remove the bearings for you. Check around at your local auto parts stores.
Installing can be done with a block of wood with a 5/8" hole drilled in it to accommodate the shaft. The wood supports the bearing a few sharp raps with a mallet will drive the bearings onto the shaft nicely. You can also use a bar clamp or pipe clamp to press the bearings (supported by the wood block) onto the shaft.
A bearing press is the correct tool though.
Some auto parts stores will loan these or they will remove the bearings for you. Check around at your local auto parts stores.
Installing can be done with a block of wood with a 5/8" hole drilled in it to accommodate the shaft. The wood supports the bearing a few sharp raps with a mallet will drive the bearings onto the shaft nicely. You can also use a bar clamp or pipe clamp to press the bearings (supported by the wood block) onto the shaft.
A bearing press is the correct tool though.
--
Terry
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1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
Public Photos of Projects
http://sdrv.ms/MaXNLX
Solution to missing part
Hi, Dusty! The solution seems to be - - buy a PowerPro DIY upgrade!!!! The part(s) you need comes with it!:D
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
charlese wrote:Hi, Dusty! The solution seems to be - - buy a PowerPro DIY upgrade!!!! The part you need comes with it!:D
Thanks, Charlese. I needed that. No really I did not need that. My heart says go for it. My budget just does not allow.
The RV repair completely eliminated most discretionary spending. The US Debt Ceiling seems to be a variable but mine is not.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Probably you should check this thread:
http://shopsmith.net/forums/showthread. ... y+bearings
Hope this works, it's the first time I post a link.
Good luck!
http://shopsmith.net/forums/showthread. ... y+bearings
Hope this works, it's the first time I post a link.
Good luck!
Ed
Carmel, NY
Carmel, NY
Dusty
The bearings on the drive shaft can be replaced very easily. If you do not have a puller and a way to press the new ones on then you can take the shaft and the bearings to a decent machine shop and they can press the bearings on for you.
I use the 6205 2RS bearings from VXB on the internet. Also I spec the bearings from a company named "Nachi" in Japan. The seals on these bearings have a unique property that allows the grease to expand into an area of the seal and stay there until the bearing cools off.
I can get 6205 bearings for about $1.75 and replace them every two years or pay about $7.00 and replace them every 15 years. Choice???
The sealed bearings also run quieter IMHO.
Bill
The bearings on the drive shaft can be replaced very easily. If you do not have a puller and a way to press the new ones on then you can take the shaft and the bearings to a decent machine shop and they can press the bearings on for you.
I use the 6205 2RS bearings from VXB on the internet. Also I spec the bearings from a company named "Nachi" in Japan. The seals on these bearings have a unique property that allows the grease to expand into an area of the seal and stay there until the bearing cools off.
I can get 6205 bearings for about $1.75 and replace them every two years or pay about $7.00 and replace them every 15 years. Choice???
The sealed bearings also run quieter IMHO.
Bill
- trainguytom
- Gold Member
- Posts: 324
- Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:22 pm
- Location: Central WI
I think I got a set of bearing pullers at Harbor Freight for about $20. on sale & a 20% coupon. They work great. I've used very reasonably priced Chinese bearings from a vendor on Ebay with no issues, even on my own machines that get a lot of use.
My dad's 1951 10er, 2 more 10er's, same vintage, a Goldie MK5, a 510 shortie with 34inch tubes, bandsaw, jointer, jigsaw, belt sander, a ton of small SS goodies and still looking...you just can't have enough Shopsmith stuff
Yes, if you become uncomfortable pulling and replacing the bearings, just take it to a local machine shop and ask them to do it - they will definitely have the right parts and should do it for you pretty cheaply and quickly.
'78 Mark V 500 #27995 (my Dad bought new)
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
'82 Mark V 500 #96309
Two '47 10E's (serial#4314+6149) - one a dedicated drill press and the other a lathe
Two 10E/ER in parts slowly being restored…#26822 and #????? (SS plate missing)
SPT's: Bandsaw, Belt Sander, Strip Sander, Jointer, Jigsaw, Biscuit Joiner
- JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
I would not attempt installing those bearings without a press(but then I already have the HF one).
Tis far too easy to make them useless by improper installation(too much stress on the races etc.).
They can be 'tapped' on by using a pipe that will 'squarely' bear against the inner race. A vise or similar 'squeezer' is preferable to 'tapping'.
Along the axis force is a must. Any thing else results in it getting cocked on the shaft.
Tis far too easy to make them useless by improper installation(too much stress on the races etc.).
They can be 'tapped' on by using a pipe that will 'squarely' bear against the inner race. A vise or similar 'squeezer' is preferable to 'tapping'.
Along the axis force is a must. Any thing else results in it getting cocked on the shaft.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I have used a socket from a 3/8" socket set. They come in multiple sizes. Use a soft blow hammer and many light taps. The socket MUST bear against the outer rim of the bearing.JPG40504 wrote:
They can be 'tapped' on by using a pipe that will 'squarely' bear against the inner race. A vise or similar 'squeezer' is preferable to 'tapping'.
Along the axis force is a must. Any thing else results in it getting cocked on the shaft.
Randy S.
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