Spacer for main table and power head

[reddog5362]

I'm getting ready to make a few jigs for the table saw. One of the things I wanted to put together is a crosscut sled. It seems to me that a crosscut sled, and zero clearance inserts, would work best with the table consistently spaced from the head, so the saw blade would be located at the same spot in relation to the table each time. I did a search and see that newer machines have a rubber ring on the tubes that may do this? My machine doesn't. I'm thinking of making a wood block to space between the headstock and the main table's carriage. Has anyone done this? Is it necessary? At this point after measuring the space I think 1-5/8" would come close to centering the blade in the opening. Is there any reason to place the blade closer to one edge than another? Thanks guys.

Cliff

[ryanbp01]

The rubber ring gives you the necessary spacing you require. You should be able to order one from Shopsmith. You would have to remove the headstock in order to put the spacing ring on.

BPR

[donalexander]

Cliff, The rubber tube is just a cushion between the headstock and table carriage. There's too much give for it to be effective in the manner you want. Your idea for a wood spacer seems better but I wonder if it wouldn't shrink and swell a bit over time.

My first thought was to wonder if you could make a spacer like you want out of PVC pipe. I'd be inclined to match the ID of the the pipe as close as you can to the OD of the way tube and use half a piece cut longitudinally so you could slip it on or off as needed to establish your distance. I suppose you could mount a short piece on the way tube between the headstock and the carriage but I don't know if it would ever get in your way with another operation.

I suppose a metal spacer would be possible too but it may take more tooling to make than the PVC plastic would. Just a thought, if I understand what you're trying to accomplish.

[reddog5362]

Don

I think you've got it. The PVC is a good idea. I'll have to look at one of the Box stores and see if I can find something with an inside diameter close to 1 3/4". I wondered if the rubber would flex too much.

Cliff

[donalexander]

Cliff,

I've got the headstock of my Mark V and I am going to order a new rubber cushion - my old one is seriously deformed. I have no idea what the previous owner did to distort it so bad but it doesn't matter. If you'd like I can order an extra one and save you shipping - just get it when you're passing through sometime. Taking the headstock off isn't a big deal...and getting it back on isn't too difficult either - even for one person.

[reddog5362]

Don, I appreciate the offer. I'm going to try the Hard spacer first though. I think if I put the rubber one on, then I wouldn't be able to use the Hard one. I'm going to have to make a list of things to look at on your 520 when I stop in to bother you.

Cliff

[dusty]

I agree that other materials are less flexible but the rubber ring that belongs on the Mark V works fine.

I am anal about alignment. Believe me, the rubber ring provides all the repeatability you need.

[reddog5362]

Thanks Dusty

[reible]

I'd stay with the rubber ring, but make sure you get the right one for your machine. A 500 has a different length then the 510/520 ish machines.

Also keep in mind when you change blades the kerf can change widths. ie blade widths of 1/8" to thin kerf blades down to the thickness of a penny so it wise to provide a replaceable insert in the sled that can be replaced for that and wear issues.

Ed

[JPG]

The Mark 5 had a hard narrow spacer.
The v505-520 went to the longer rubber spacer.
A 2" pvc pipe with 60 degrees cut out will slip on/off easily.(cut to proper length)

All work correctly.