Cutting Sailbox In Half

[fredsheldon]

My third ever woodworking project is a sailbox that I will use to carry 3 sets of sail rigs for my One Meter radio controlled sailboat. So far I have taught myself how to cut 51 and 38 degree miters on the band saw and sanding disk, cutting rabbets and rounding over all edges with my OPR, and using the disk sander to trim the edge of 1/4 plywood to size. Now comes the task that I could use some advice on. Cutting the completed box in half lengthwise to be joined with a piano hinge. What is the best way to perform this cut on th SS. Would using the table saw work without any issues. The panels will be glued in place before attempting the cut.

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[algale]

Fred,

I've only done this on one box on the Shopsmith in table saw mode, so I'm no expert.

In my case, I just set the fence and ran the long side over the blade, then rotated 90 degrees and did a short side, rotated another 90 degrees to do the other long side. Before running the last short side I inserted a kerf keeper so the box wouldn't pinch the blade.

But that was a rectangular box with the shortest side over 12 inches.

Yours looks like it would be very dangerous to do the way I did it because of the very short side and the shape of the sail box which will want to fall over when it is standing on its short side.

I assume the total height of the sail box exceeds the maximum height of the band saw so that's not an option.

If it were me, I'd disassemble if that's possible and rip each piece of the frame in half.

Just my opinion. Hope others are more helpful.

Al

[fredsheldon]

Fred,

I've only done this on one box on the Shopsmith in table saw mode, so I'm no expert.

In my case, I just set the fence and ran the long side over the blade, then rotated 90 degrees and did a short side, rotated another 90 degrees to do the other long side. Before running the last short side I inserted a kerf keeper so the box wouldn't pinch the blade.

But that was a rectangular box with the shortest side over 12 inches.

Yours looks like it would be very dangerous to do the way I did it because of the very short side and the shape of the sail box which will want to fall over when it is standing on its short side.

Or better yet, just rip the two longs sides on the table saw, then finish the short sides with a hand saw. I would have to roll the ss out of the garage because there is not enough room to stand it up on the table to do the ends

I assume the total height of the sail box exceeds the maximum height of the band saw so that's not an option.

If it were me, I'd disassemble if that's possible and rip each piece of the frame in half.

Just my opinion. Hope others are more helpful.

Al

I have not glued the panels onto the frame yet, but I have glued up the frame itself. I agree that it would be best to rip the frame in half then attach the panels. I think I should rip the short sides first. Then wedge open the first long side before making the final cut. Thanks for the advice.

Or maybe it might be better to just rip the long sides on the table saw, then use a hand saw to do the short sides. Will there be any issues with the blade binding on the first long side cut if I take it slow and easy? To cut the short sides, I would need to roll the saw outside of the garage, not enough room to stand it up.

[algale]

I have not glued the panels onto the frame yet, but I have glued up the frame itself. I agree that it would be best to rip the frame in half then attach the panels. I think I should rip the short sides first. Then wedge open the first long side before making the final cut. Thanks for the advice.

Fred,

I wouldn't want to have that thing up on that short side running over the blade. So I'm trying to think outside the box

How about mounting the router chuck to the quill and attaching your narrowest straight cutting router bit that is long enough to cut through the frame. I'm thinking keep it in horizontal mode with the main table set to a height to split the fame in half. Start the cut with the frame clamped to the table and use the quill to push the bit though the frame if it is a plunge cutting bit (alternately you could bore a 1/4 in inch hole with a drill bit and use a non-plunging bit. You could then rotate the frame though the cut while it is flat on the table. You'll need to stop at some point and insert a kerf keeper or two. Also, you need to take the rotation of the bit into account to get the right feed direction. This is a non-standad opeation so I would practice with a quick glued up frame of the same thickness before ruining you project.

Al

[fredsheldon]

Fred,

I wouldn't want to have that thing up on that short side running over the blade. So I'm trying to think outside the box

How about mounting the router chuck to the quill and attaching your narrowest straight cutting router bit that is long enough to cut through the frame. I'm thinking keep it in horizontal mode with the main table set to a height to split the fame in half. Start the cut with the frame clamped to the table and use the quill to push the bit though the frame if it is a plunge cutting bit (alternately you could bore a 1/4 in inch hole with a drill bit and use a non-plunging bit. You could then rotate the frame though the cut while it is flat on the table. You'll need to stop at some point and insert a kerf keeper or two. Also, you need to take the rotation of the bit into account to get the right feed direction. This is a non-standad opeation so I would practice with a quick glued up frame of the same thickness before ruining you project.

Al

Al, now your talking. I think that would be a much safer solution. How about not cutting all the way through, and finish it off with a hand saw. I can smooth out any differences in thicknesses of the cut with the disk sander. With the PowerPro I can get the rpms up to 10,000.

[algale]

Al, now your talking. I think that would be a much safer solution. How about not cutting all the way through, and finish it off with a hand saw. I can smooth out any differences in thicknesses of the cut with the disk sander. With the PowerPro I can get the rpms up to 10,000.

Hand saw? What's that? How does it attach to the Mark V?

[JPG]

Fine tooth hand saw. One you cause to reciprocate!:D

That was my initial suggestion, but got beat to posting it, but I mean the entire slice.

[stephen_a._draper]

This is a situation where safety demands the simplest solution. Just draw a straight line in pencil on all four sides of the completed box. Then start at one corner and cut using a hand held electric Sabre Saw or a hand held electric circular saw with the blade depth set appropriately. You can clamp a straight edge on the box for the saw to ride against if you want. Turn the box 90 degrees each time to do the next side.

[fredsheldon]

This is a situation where safety demands the simplest solution. Just draw a straight line in pencil on all four sides of the completed box. Then start at one corner and cut using a hand held electric Sabre Saw or a hand held electric circular saw with the blade depth set appropriately. You can clamp a straight edge on the box for the saw to ride against if you want. Turn the box 90 degrees each time to do the next side.

I have a just restored jig saw on my restored 10ER that can be converted to a sabre saw. I can then use the ss table and fence to ensure a straight cut.
I might give that a try first. Less chance of damaging my work if something were to go wrong.


Thanks for the suggestions.

[reddog5362]

I'm not sure how long the short side is but I think I'd crank the blade Height up all the way and cut the two long sides first. Draw a line on the two short sides and connect the kerfs with a handsaw. If the short side is only 6-7" you won't even have a cut to make.