Cutting Sailbox In Half

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anmius
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Post by anmius »

I vote for using a circular saw with a straight edge as a guide but cutting most of the way through, not all (leave about 1/4" web). Then finish the cut with (gasp!) a hand saw. Easier to control the saw(s) than the box and with a straight edge as a guide, you should get a clean, straight cut. Safety first!
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reible
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Post by reible »

I see no reason to not cut the two long sides on the table saw. Safety issues will require you to have a tall fence and using a push stick/block to feed the frame into the blade. I'd think that having the back installed would make it ridged enough (against tall fence).

I'm assuming that the back/bottom is in a rabbet. Once installed the structure should be OK to cut with power tools. I would not trust the joints by themselves.

I'd even worry about using a hand saw for the cut unless you can clamp/brace the joints before you start.

In my opinion if the joints are just glued that is the most likely failure point however you go about doing the cutting.

Ed
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Ed in Tampa
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Post by Ed in Tampa »

I made a Fishing Rod box similar to this many many years ago. I didn't own a table saw at the time. I know I built the box then cut it in half but I can't remember how I did it. I think I remember cutting it on my radial arm saw and using a hand saw for the short sides. In any case what every I did worked well since I have used the box for over 35 years.

If I was doing it today I would use a guided saw and be done with it.

I would cut the first narrow end and shim it. Then the second narrow end and shim it. Then I would I would clamp the completed box so the first long side was level with my bench and then setting a guide on the bench cut the first side. I would then stick shims in the cut and turn the box so the other side was up and clamped as the first side and I would cut make that cut.

Piece of cake.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I would readily cut all but the short side on the table saw. If already assembled, I would suggest cutting the short side some other way.

If I had built this, I would have cut the short side before it was assembled and then cut the remaining sides on the table saw.
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terrydowning
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Post by terrydowning »

I have done this with hand saws.
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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

Well I made a decision, and I went with using the table saw for the long sides and hand saw for the short sides. I started out using the sabre saw but it was taking too long. I had no issues with the table saw. Just took my time and went slow.

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Humph! I was considering a different cut plane!:o A far more difficult one!:D

This makes much more sense! I thought you wanted to make it 'narrower' by folding.:eek:
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peterm
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Post by peterm »

I was about to suggest putting the Shopsmith in drill press mode, mount a small (7.5"?) circular blade on the quill and rest the box flat on the table. Mount the fence so the blade just cuts through horizontally.

I am pleased to see the job is done and my idea does not need to be "tested":eek: :eek:
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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

prmindartmouth wrote:I was about to suggest putting the Shopsmith in drill press mode, mount a small (7.5"?) circular blade on the quill and rest the box flat on the table. Mount the fence so the blade just cuts through horizontally.

I am pleased to see the job is done and my idea does not need to be "tested":eek: :eek:
Ouch!! It's bad enough that I had to remove the saw guard cover because it was in the way, but with that saw blade spinning away out there in the open really gives me pause. :eek:
Fred Sheldon
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'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
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fredsheldon
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Post by fredsheldon »

Finished except for the handle and locking lever. This is the type of project I had in mind when I decided to get a Shopsmith in the first place. This being only the third woodworking project I have ever attempted I have come to realize how much I lack in experience. But I'm having fun learning thru trial and error, (Lots of errors), and researching the archives on this site.

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Three sets of remote controlled sailboat rigs and sails will be stored in this transporter. The smaller of the 3 will be stored in the swinging center section.
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Fred Sheldon
The Woodlands, Tx
'52 10ER # 60869 (restored in 2012, used as a dedicated drill press), '52 10ER # 88712 (restored 01/2013), 52 10ER # 71368 (in process of restoring), '83 500 Shorty with OPR installed, '83 520 PowerPro with Lift Assist, 6" Joiner, 6" Belt Sander, 18" Jig Saw, 11" Band Saw, 12" ProPlaner, SS Crosscut Table. SS Dust Collector, Hitachi 1/2" router, Work Sharp 3000 with all attachement, Nova G3 Chuck, Universal Tool Rest, Appalachia Tool Works Sled.
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