How to Read a Saw Cut
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- dusty
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I don't know if I have discovered anything related to my saw blade issue or not but I did discover some interesting (at least to me) detail about my "bad saw blade".
I was certain from the way it was cutting that there was a tooth that protruded too far to the side. I set up with a dial indicator to discover which one. I think I might have discovered which one, well really which ten.
This is a 50 tooth combination blade with ten groups of 5 each. Eight of the ten groups measure out to within 1 or 2 thousandths of zero while the remaining two groups are 10 to 12 thousandths.
I don't know anything about sharpening but I suspect that this is something that cannot be corrected.
I'll go back tomorrow and check the blade while measuring from the other side. I could not do that today. My back was killing me. I went around that blade about 6 times trying to confirm which teeth were offset.
I was certain from the way it was cutting that there was a tooth that protruded too far to the side. I set up with a dial indicator to discover which one. I think I might have discovered which one, well really which ten.
This is a 50 tooth combination blade with ten groups of 5 each. Eight of the ten groups measure out to within 1 or 2 thousandths of zero while the remaining two groups are 10 to 12 thousandths.
I don't know anything about sharpening but I suspect that this is something that cannot be corrected.
I'll go back tomorrow and check the blade while measuring from the other side. I could not do that today. My back was killing me. I went around that blade about 6 times trying to confirm which teeth were offset.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Did ya go to a local sharpener? I think that that can be corrected with proper sharpening.dusty wrote:This is a 50 tooth combination blade with ten groups of 5 each. Eight of the ten groups measure out to within 1 or 2 thousandths of zero while the remaining two groups are 10 to 12 thousandths.
I don't know anything about sharpening but I suspect that this is something that cannot be corrected.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Final thickness of a board is always planed before ripping.
Since you asked - One edge of a board is jointed as a first step. Then I plane the thickness of a board (often 3/4" before ripping it to a bit over width. After ripping I can gather all boards of that width and run them through the planer to get constant width.
camerio wrote:before or after ?
Just want to understand correctly.
Since you asked - One edge of a board is jointed as a first step. Then I plane the thickness of a board (often 3/4" before ripping it to a bit over width. After ripping I can gather all boards of that width and run them through the planer to get constant width.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- Ed in Tampa
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
The problem with the group out 10 12 thousandth is exactly what a good sharpener fixes. Now it might be unfixable because to fix it would require grinding off too much of the tip. Or it may be too expensive requiring a removal and the welding on of new tips but it is fixable.dusty wrote:I don't know if I have discovered anything related to my saw blade issue or not but I did discover some interesting (at least to me) detail about my "bad saw blade".
I was certain from the way it was cutting that there was a tooth that protruded too far to the side. I set up with a dial indicator to discover which one. I think I might have discovered which one, well really which ten.
This is a 50 tooth combination blade with ten groups of 5 each. Eight of the ten groups measure out to within 1 or 2 thousandths of zero while the remaining two groups are 10 to 12 thousandths.
I don't know anything about sharpening but I suspect that this is something that cannot be corrected.
I'll go back tomorrow and check the blade while measuring from the other side. I could not do that today. My back was killing me. I went around that blade about 6 times trying to confirm which teeth were offset.
As I said almost every blade I take to my sharpener is ground on the side somewhere to make all tips coplannar ( not sticking out). He doesn't do this everytime but he does it at least once on every blade I have taken him. Again he is not afraid to say this blade is junk, even if it is a "high dollar" brand name.
He seems to like the Shopsmith blades I have taken him in the past.
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!
- dusty
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I have an appointment with him of Friday to discuss what might be wrong with this blade or with the way it was sharpened.beeg wrote:Did ya go to a local sharpener? I think that that can be corrected with proper sharpening.
Measurements that I have taken on this blade have sort of softened my original anger with this guy. It may be the fault of the blade.
In discussing it with him I will at least get his opinion and maybe some corrective action. We will see.
I had him sharpen two blades. The other one is as good as any blade I have run on the Shopsmith. This does speak for his ability.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:I had him sharpen two blades. The other one is as good as any blade I have run on the Shopsmith. This does speak for his ability.
So I guess ya don't send em off to Forrest anymore? I'm not to sure about your current sharpeners ability. He's one for one,50%.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
.
Bob
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.
Bob
- dusty
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I have not made up my mind yet that Forrest is out of the picture. They have done many sharpening jobs for me and I never had a bad one.beeg wrote:So I guess ya don't send em off to Forrest anymore? I'm not to sure about your current sharpeners ability. He's one for one,50%.
This was an attempt to save a little bit of money while using a nearby service (less lost time). It may not work out that way.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
- Ed in Tampa
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- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
I have been making measurements on saw blade teeth and blade plates almost since my first post in this thread.
I am slowly coming to the conclusion that while the sharpener might have been able to correct this problem, doing so was not something that I commissioned him to do.
Based on runout measurements that I have now made on all of my saw blades, even the original steel blades, I am inclined to believe I have one really bad blade (one one that I got ticked off about). It is not flat and deviates significantly right at a particular grouping of teeth. I normally don't sharpen blades that I plan to use on repurposed lumber, plywood and MDF but I believe this is going to become my "just sharpened" plywood and MDF blade.
I'll still go visit with him on Friday (free coffee and donuts there) and see what I can learn from him. Besides, I have to go apologize to the crew that works there.
I am slowly coming to the conclusion that while the sharpener might have been able to correct this problem, doing so was not something that I commissioned him to do.
Based on runout measurements that I have now made on all of my saw blades, even the original steel blades, I am inclined to believe I have one really bad blade (one one that I got ticked off about). It is not flat and deviates significantly right at a particular grouping of teeth. I normally don't sharpen blades that I plan to use on repurposed lumber, plywood and MDF but I believe this is going to become my "just sharpened" plywood and MDF blade.
I'll still go visit with him on Friday (free coffee and donuts there) and see what I can learn from him. Besides, I have to go apologize to the crew that works there.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.