New shop Ideas

[saminmn]

With the recent purchase of a SS MKV Model 510, I have decided to give up on the idea of using the largest area in my basement for a man cave/pool room. I will keep both SS machines and move from 9'x13' space into the 13'x28'. This room has a single bulb, no outlet, block walls on 3 sides, bare concrete floor, and no ceiling. It is currently full of crap, some pieces needing repair, bikes, and other stuff I will throw away or try to shoehorn into the area used by the current shop.

So I am trying to think out a plan of action.

I think I will cover at least one block wall with plywood on studs, possibly all 3 block walls. I guess I could save some money and only put plywood on upper half of wall(s), sheet-rocking the rest. Would 1/2" plywood be good or would I wish I had used 3/4"? What are thoughts on covering walls?

I will need to move my 230v circuit and will probably add a couple pf 20amp(or 15 if codes dictate) circuits for the wall(s) maxing out the number of outlets on each. Having a second circuit would let me run the SS DC3300 and a power tool at the same time. Lights will probably be added to the existing circuit, as much as possible.

Second room? I don't have a good area for finishing/dust free work. But, a paint booth would need lots of ventilation/air moving capability and is generally more than I am thinking at this point.

So, walls and wiring/lighting seem to be first priorities. All thoughts appreciated.

[frank81]

Sounds like a bigger version of my garage I'm working on but with block walls.

My first thought is the advantage of covering the walls? Do you have any issues with moisture in your basement, and would that hinder things? Would it add more crevices for sawdust to hide?

If it were me I would do pegboard/storage the complete length of one wall and put that money back into electrical. Run flourescent fixtures the length of the shop, every 4 ft...no shadows can be very helpful sometimes.

If you have exposed floor joists, you could use retractible outlets.

If you add a couch, a mini-fridge, and a tv its still your man cave.

[JPG]

I too question the need for wall covering.

I like Farmers french cleat/osb walls. *

Pegboard would be a second/alternative choice.

Plywood and drywall would be my last choice.

Can you tell I have a gizmo storage issue?:D

Do be sensitive to potential moisture problems.



Sounds like you have two man-caves.


* https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9215&highlight=cleat Gets interesting from post # 70 on!
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9215&highlight=cleat

[S Brian]

My basement shop is 12.5' x 28', with three of the walls being poured concrete. I would suggest doing what I did and building a stud wall, with a door on the forth side, to close in your shop for dust control purposes.

I left the concrete walls bare, except for one wall where I hung four sheets of peg board, horizontally along the top half of the wall. For lighting I have two rows of 4' twin tube florescent fixtures. I started with six 8' twin tube fixtures, but the ballasts were noisy, so I returned them to Loew's and bought twelve 4' with electronic ballasts. They are nice and quite, with no buzz and no shadows.

For electric I have two light circuits, one for the florescent lights and one for a separate florescent and wall plug at my workbench. For the tools I have two 110v 20 amp circuits for wall plugs and one 220v circuit for my table saw.

[saminmn]

I too question the need for wall covering.
I like Farmers french cleat/osb walls. *
Pegboard would be a second/alternative choice.
Plywood and drywall would be my last choice. Is this just a cost issue? I like the cleat approach but want to understand your objection.
Can you tell I have a gizmo storage issue?:D
Do be sensitive to potential moisture problems. I had some dampness once in 4 years we have been here. But, I think the problem will be resolved if I finish adding fill along wall where the A/C sits. If anything the A/C's platform currently leans toward the house:eek: The dampness was for a 2 or 3 foot section of one wall.
Sounds like you have two man-caves.]http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... ight=cleat[/URL] Gets interesting from post # 70 on!
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=9215&highlight=cleat

Thanks for ideas. I checked out farmer move and his cleat system. This is the kind of thing I was wanting to accomplish, but a lot better than drilling holes to store an item - and then wishing you had put it somewhere else. I am not familiar with OSB. Sounds like there might be varying qualities out there. Are there any guides for its appropriate use or quality grades? I'll do a little looking around on the web.

I see that in the link farmer provided the guy used plywood.

frank81 - retractable outlets hmmm

[JPG]

My lack of enthusiasm for plywood/drywall is the lack of 'storage'.

When osb first appeared quality was variable and often poor.

Plywood(good) would probably work better. Farmer had a supply of the osb 'on hand'.

[frank81]

frank81 - retractable outlets hmmm

Exactly. I'm assuming you would have to route wiring through the exposed ceiling anyway, so you can further justify it was requiring less wire. And they are a lot safer in terms of trip hazards. If you go that route I'm interested in seeing what you use and how you set it up as I'm considering it myself.

[robinson46176]

I have been too busy working on my boot shop and the horse stuff (and goofing off) to get much done in the woodshop this winter/spring but I did 32' of my east wall from the top of the wall down 4'. I am extremely happy with it.
I have a batch of the cleat pieces cut ahead, I just need to put them together. I have a section of wall about 24' long on the west side that is 4' tall with open window area above the wall. I want to put several cleats along that wall too. Then I will play it by ear as to how much more I try to put up this year.
I have no qualms at all about the OSB. Now if my basement was damp (it isn't) I would probably paint both sides and the edges well but then I would feel the same about plywood. I installed it over 1/2" foam board which should keep any possible moisture (there has been none) from the wall away from it and also prevent quick temperature changes to stop any possible condensation. This basement amazes me after having had the woodshop in two other buildings where rust was a constant problem. I can leave something laying on the floor unprotected and a week or two later pick it up and it is rust free... Not that I ever leave anything laying around.


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[saminmn]

I have been too busy working on my boot shop and the horse stuff (and goofing off) to get much done in the woodshop this winter/spring but I did 32' of my east wall from the top of the wall down 4'. I am extremely happy with it.
I have a batch of the cleat pieces cut ahead, I just need to put them together. I have a section of wall about 24' long on the west side that is 4' tall with open window area above the wall. I want to put several cleats along that wall too. Then I will play it by ear as to how much more I try to put up this year.
I have no qualms at all about the OSB. Now if my basement was damp (it isn't) I would probably paint both sides and the edges well but then I would feel the same about plywood. I installed it over 1/2" foam board which should keep any possible moisture (there has been none) from the wall away from it and also prevent quick temperature changes to stop any possible condensation. This basement amazes me after having had the woodshop in two other buildings where rust was a constant problem. I can leave something laying on the floor unprotected and a week or two later pick it up and it is rust free... Not that I ever leave anything laying around.
.

Thanks for comments. I have a couple of questions on how you attached the foam and OSB to your walls. I am a total greenie on most shop/construction things. You said, in post #70 of the link JPG gave me, that you connected them them to the sill plate. Are they glued also or jest floating except for the top edge? Is your sill plate flush with the block wall? What kind of fasteners did you use & how far into the sill plate?

I think there could be a lot of weight other stresses out on the hanger system you are using and I am not sure how much 'over building' I need so I don't have to worry about what I asked of it if/when I copy your system.

BTW, the wall I am thinking of using has had no moisture issue in the 4 years we have lived here and we had record setting flood/heavy rain a year ago.

[robinson46176]

Thanks for comments. I have a couple of questions on how you attached the foam and OSB to your walls. I am a total greenie on most shop/construction things. You said, in post #70 of the link JPG gave me, that you connected them them to the sill plate. Are they glued also or jest floating except for the top edge? Is your sill plate flush with the block wall? What kind of fasteners did you use & how far into the sill plate?

I think there could be a lot of weight other stresses out on the hanger system you are using and I am not sure how much 'over building' I need so I don't have to worry about what I asked of it if/when I copy your system.

BTW, the wall I am thinking of using has had no moisture issue in the 4 years we have lived here and we had record setting flood/heavy rain a year ago.

Yes the sill plate is flush with the 12" concrete block wall. I hung the foam initially with a couple of small nails then attached the OSB over it using 3.5" square drive screws on about a 10" spacing so there are 10 screws holding each sheet. They just hang from that top edge. I feel pretty good about its holding ability. I may go back and put some anchor screws in across the bottom but I wanted the OSB to have time to "relax" first. Those will really be more to tie the sill plate down to the middle of the wall than to support the panels but it should do both. The only glue is in the construction and mounting of the cleats. That was Tight-Bond II.


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