Okay - I did it - bought a 10er off CLs need advice

[fordtrax]

I bought a 10er off craigslist for $75. It is in fair condition I would say.

Got soaked in the down pour that happened just as I tried to get it in my SUV. I will check it out in more detail tomorrow after work when it is light out. However, I know I need the following:

1.) The quill lever is broken off so I will need one of those - I was thinking may be 3 quill levers would be good since it will be a dedicated drill press. Any thoughts on the drill press quill set up?

2.) The belt guard is gone - I will need a new one of those for the top of the machine.

3.) The drill chuck is in poor shape. I was thinking of just getting a replacement - what size chuck and taper will I need to get to fit this machine? Is there pretty good chuck that I should look for on Ebay that would work on this machine. I would rather get a very good used chuck than an okay new one. Are the Jacobs good for the money or is there others that are a good/better for less money?

4.) What should I check/do before I put this thing into operation as a drill press? Any particular things I should check for or service?

Any other comments/suggestions would sure be appreciated.

[skou]

$75?

If the motor works, and the rest isn't a bucket of rust, you SCORED!

Quill lever, you can make a decent copy, by ordering parts from McMaster-Carr, unless you're going for the purity of stock. I used to know the thread, but I'm sure someone else will chip in.

While I'm not going to discourage you from using safety items, I've never used a belt guard. However, in drill-press mode, your head hair is a lot closer to the exposed belt.

ANY drill chuck, (or anything else, for that matter) , made to mount on any Shopsmith quill, will mount on the ER quill. Period! A Jacobs chuck, made for a Shopsmith is about the best you can get. And, they can be rebuilt.

Check the quill and other headstock bearings. Check out the motor.

Also, you may want to consider setting this one up as a lathe, too. The extra weight, (isn't cast iron great) makes for a more stable base, than the thin sheetmetal and aluminum of the Mk V stuff. (Guys, you know I'm right! Yes, I plan on getting some "pushback" on that opinion.) On the other hand, the weakest part of ANY Shopsmith, is the table saw, and the ER is the worst!

Oh, that afore mentioned cast iron is also "fun" to heave into vertical drill-press mode. BUT, you also have a rare horizontal drill-press! Try boring a 1 inch hole in the end of a 15 foot 4X4. Not sideways, but straight up the end.

Oh, welcome to the Cast Iron club!

steve

[JPG]

The chuck has a 5/8" bore in the back, not a taper.

Any ss chuck will fit but I prefer the 3326 jacobs(original 10E/ER vintage chuck).

The quill feed hubs have three 3/8-16 tapped holes for handles. If nothing better is available, three bolts will work.

Verify the bearings are good.

Make a sacrificial 'table top' so you will never drill into the table.

Upper belt covers are also found on e-bay often.

You may want to get a speed changer, but they go for over $100 typically.

I predict this one will go cheaper. It is broken but repaired without welding(kludgey, but appears effective).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/321148188251?ss ... 1438.l2649

[fordtrax]

I have a small lathe so I am good to go that way. My drill press is an old craftsman and it is fair - I thought the 10ER would make a great drill press with that big table that tilts and has a fence.

Any instruction or videos (youtube or vimeo etc) on how to get the quill out and check that over and the bearings? I am not super knowledgeable about that stuff but am pretty good about following instructions and figuring things out as long as I have a bit of guidance.

I appreciate the advice on the drill press chuck.

If anyone has any other ideas please post them here! Thanks

[JPG]

'Check' the bearings by rotating the shaft by hand. If it feels smooth and not bumpy or gritty, then leave them alone. Try wiggling the output shaft. If it doesn't wiggle, same answer.

Replacing the bearings would require a bearing puller.




If it ain't broke, do not 'fix' it!:D




However if you do decide to replace them, let us know.

[joshh]

Good info here
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... nical+info

[skou]

Ford, to get the quill out, remove (and SAVE ) the 2 nuts and the washer, on the depth gauge. Advance the quill feed (those bolts someone recommended earlier) until the quill falls out. CATCH it! Don't just let go of the advance lever (or bolts) but let them retract with guidance

To replace the quill, tighten the quill feed about the same, slide the quill in, while turning either the quill or the drive pulley, to engage the 6 spline drive.back off the quill, and it will slide home. If it is too tight, advance it out, and back off some. If it is too loose, back it out and tighten it some.

This may sound strange, but with your ER in hand, it will make sense.

Oh, I'm SURE to get arguments here, but the E and ER models are the EASIEST to work on. Period!

One more thing, if your current lathe is OK, you've just gotten the BEST Shopsmith lathe. You've also got a state of the art drill-press, that is only 70 years young!

If you need any more help, follow that link above, to the Yahoo group. You just might see me there.

steve

[skou]

Good info here
http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... nical+info

Josh, I didn't realize you referenced MickyD's thread.

Fordtrax, read it.

ALL of it!

steve

[JPG]

. . .

One more thing, if your current lathe is OK, you've just gotten the BEST Shopsmith lathe. You've also got a state of the art drill-press, that is only 70 years young!

. . .
steve

1948 + 70 = 2013 ?????


Please do not design any bridges!!!:D

[fordtrax]

I took and old base I built and shorted it and beefed it up a bit to mount the 10E on. Ordered 3 new feed levers - the one on the machine was broken so I had to find a replacement.