charlese wrote:Although I can't remember ever disagreeing with beeg before, I do recognize a small ball pein hammer a help in cases like this. The metal to metal vibration from a tap does loosen stuck objects. Same reasoning as an impact hammer. but in this case, a tap with the hammer is enough we don't want to damage the spindle or the chuck.
Try this again after the soaking recommended above.
I agree Chuck! Anything that is short of denting or other deforming is ok and desirable(maybe). Tis the impact g forces thing.
I add a small point re rotating. A more likely location for a burr occuring is near the end of the quill shaft between where the tapered flat stops and the shaft end. This area is the full shaft diameter. Any burr making the diameter larger will jam in the chuck bore.
Pulling the chuck towards the shaft end MAY cause MORE wedging as the burr is pulled further up onto the shaft od.
By rotating first the burr MAY be forced back down into the flat area.
For torque application a TIGHTLY fitting(in the key holes) rod will help. Tightly fitting so the key holes do not get deformed and the rod bent at the hole(camming out).
This endeavor is similar to MickyD's getting the quill advance knob off its shaft. He used three very long bolts and accomplished the tight fit part by using the threads in the hub and jam nuts.
A larger hammering to the rod is acceptable(MickyD had three very strange looking bolts at the end)!
Do not overlook warming the chuck.
Lotsa 'extra' penetrant helps when it breaks loose to prevent 'extra' damage.
All this also applies if a burr is on the full od part of the shaft in the flatted area caused by set screw tightening off the flat.
If it is all rust, ditto.
when using that '10' to counteract all that glare?:eek:
