Has anyone converted the above mentioned successfully? I am thinking just using T-Nuts into table grove, but not sure. Any info would be helpful.
Thanks.
alisfair (Tom)
Conversion of mark v shaper guide to a 510 table
Moderator: admin
T-nuts will work. I happened to use a couple odd bolts that I had on hand, one was an old washing machine leveling screw with a thin head the other a toilet bolt. I ground the edges off the first and soldered a body washer to the brass toilet bolt and ground. I converted a shaper/drum sander fence from an old greenie. I have a couple newer ones but the knob on this one seemed to turn smoother. The shield doesn't work for anything more than dust collection. I used it on the Power Pro with a 520 main table. I changed the original 3/4 inch wood guides to 1 1/2 inch. In retrospect I could have used a greater angle on the guides than what was on the original because of the increased width.
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Used a set of rail and stile router bits to make a couple drawer fronts for a bathroom vanity.
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[ATTACH]22143[/ATTACH]
Used a set of rail and stile router bits to make a couple drawer fronts for a bathroom vanity.
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- JPG
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'Smoother' knob is likely due to reduced detent spring tension or wear.
I assume thicker fence board is to place the face in line with the arbor?
You could still cut a relief notch in the back of the fence boards.
P.S. Nice pine faces.
I assume thicker fence board is to place the face in line with the arbor?
You could still cut a relief notch in the back of the fence boards.
P.S. Nice pine faces.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I pulled all three fences apart a couple months ago to see if I could find a difference in quality when I added the thicker fence boards. The tension did seem less on the greenie knob. The two newer ones also had knobs that were either drilled/tapped off center or maybe a PO dropped them. I ran a file edge around about a third of the slot on the knobs to reduce the binding.JPG40504 wrote:'Smoother' knob is likely due to reduced detent spring tension or wear.
I assume thicker fence board is to place the face in line with the arbor?
You could still cut a relief notch in the back of the fence boards.
P.S. Nice pine faces.
The extra thickness does bring the edge out to the arbor and then just beyond the edge of the table insert hole when adjusted out with the knob.
Nice idea on a relief cut to let the shield get closer.
I got a real deal on about 100 1x8x8 at an auction last fall.
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alisfair
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- Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
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Shaper Fence Conversion
I will try and drill the hole system first. Sounds good and thank you for your response!
Tom
Tom