Conversion of mark v shaper guide to a 510 table

Forum for people who are new to woodworking. Feel free to ask questions or contribute.

Moderator: admin

Post Reply
alisfair
Gold Member
Posts: 89
Joined: Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:31 pm
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Contact:

Conversion of mark v shaper guide to a 510 table

Post by alisfair »

Has anyone converted the above mentioned successfully? I am thinking just using T-Nuts into table grove, but not sure. Any info would be helpful.
Thanks.
alisfair (Tom)
User avatar
SDSSmith
Platinum Member
Posts: 1940
Joined: Mon Dec 04, 2006 6:35 pm
Location: San Diego, CA

Post by SDSSmith »

Here is one piece of information received from Shopsmith.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
redleg
Gold Member
Posts: 237
Joined: Thu May 23, 2013 8:46 pm
Location: Asheboro, NC

Post by redleg »

T-nuts will work. I happened to use a couple odd bolts that I had on hand, one was an old washing machine leveling screw with a thin head the other a toilet bolt. I ground the edges off the first and soldered a body washer to the brass toilet bolt and ground. I converted a shaper/drum sander fence from an old greenie. I have a couple newer ones but the knob on this one seemed to turn smoother. The shield doesn't work for anything more than dust collection. I used it on the Power Pro with a 520 main table. I changed the original 3/4 inch wood guides to 1 1/2 inch. In retrospect I could have used a greater angle on the guides than what was on the original because of the increased width.

[ATTACH]22143[/ATTACH]

Used a set of rail and stile router bits to make a couple drawer fronts for a bathroom vanity.

[ATTACH]22144[/ATTACH]
Attachments
IMG_20130710_082914 - Copy (600x450).jpg
IMG_20130710_082914 - Copy (600x450).jpg (71.89 KiB) Viewed 4722 times
IMG_20130710_180602 - Copy (600x450).jpg
IMG_20130710_180602 - Copy (600x450).jpg (52.59 KiB) Viewed 4718 times
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35600
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

'Smoother' knob is likely due to reduced detent spring tension or wear.

I assume thicker fence board is to place the face in line with the arbor?

You could still cut a relief notch in the back of the fence boards.


P.S. Nice pine faces.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
redleg
Gold Member
Posts: 237
Joined: Thu May 23, 2013 8:46 pm
Location: Asheboro, NC

Post by redleg »

JPG40504 wrote:'Smoother' knob is likely due to reduced detent spring tension or wear.

I assume thicker fence board is to place the face in line with the arbor?

You could still cut a relief notch in the back of the fence boards.


P.S. Nice pine faces.
I pulled all three fences apart a couple months ago to see if I could find a difference in quality when I added the thicker fence boards. The tension did seem less on the greenie knob. The two newer ones also had knobs that were either drilled/tapped off center or maybe a PO dropped them. I ran a file edge around about a third of the slot on the knobs to reduce the binding.

The extra thickness does bring the edge out to the arbor and then just beyond the edge of the table insert hole when adjusted out with the knob.

Nice idea on a relief cut to let the shield get closer.

I got a real deal on about 100 1x8x8 at an auction last fall.
alisfair
Gold Member
Posts: 89
Joined: Sun Jul 07, 2013 10:31 pm
Location: Grand Rapids, Michigan
Contact:

Shaper Fence Conversion

Post by alisfair »

I will try and drill the hole system first. Sounds good and thank you for your response!
Tom
Post Reply