Hello - New SS 510 owner, and a few questions

[2manband]

I recently got a great deal on a used (1988) Shopsmith Mark V model 510 with 4" Joiner and 2 floating table extensions and a bunch of other small accessories (lathe chisels, featherboards, push blocks and sticks, etc.)

The machine is in perfect working order, but has some surface rust on some of the parts, and just generally needs to be cleaned up. I'm 29 and plan on using the machine for the rest of my life, so I want to clean and protect everything. I'm working my way through the small precision parts (lather centers, arbors, drill chuck, mitre gauge, etc.) with a toothbrush and some Hoppe's No. 9 gun cleaning solvent followed up by a light coat of 3 in 1 oil, and the results are pretty good.

I'm trying to figure out what to use on the carriage and the table. I'm thinking about automotive chrome polish on the tubes followed by a light coat of 3 in 1 oil. Would this work? I also need to remove some caked on sawdust from the carriage, legs, powerhead, etc. A shopvac removed some of it, but some is really stuck on. Is warm, soapy water safe to use for this? I also have some surface rust on the stamped metal legs that I want to stop in its tracks - I'm thinking a wire brush on a drill, followed up by some rust oleum primer and a rattlecan topcoat. Any good souces for Shopsmith Grey paint?

Once I get all of these things sorted out, I'm planning to open the powerhead, clean everything out with compressed air, and clean, lubricate, and service (and then align) everything per the manual. I've popped open the access panel and had a look inside, and couldn't find any rust inside the powerhead, so that's good.

Am I missing anything?

Sorry for the long winded first post - any advice is much appreciated.

[2manband]

Oh - and one more question:

My workshop is my (unheated) garage here in Pennsylvania. To prevent rust from forming in the future, I'm planning to keep things lightly oiled, keep the accessories stored in a plastic toolbox with a tight fitting lid, and use a vinyl dust cover over the machine while it's in storage. Any other precautions I should take?

None of my rust issues go beyond a little surface oxidation, but, as I'm planning to use the machine for the next 40-50 years, I want to make sure that I store and care for it properly.

[dusty]

Welcome to the forum. You have come to the right place.

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... emoval.htm

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... Tuneup.htm

and wax, wax, wax. I use Johnson's Paste wax but if you browse this forum you'll find that several others use still other common products. My machine is nearly twenty years old and has been in Texas, Mississippi, California and Arizona and has no rust problems. I believe Johnson's and elbow grease is all that is required.

Of course, you need to properly lubricate also. Again this forum will answers many questions.

http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... enance.htm

Do all of this and you are ready to make some sawdust. Again, welcome.

[rkh2]

2manband

Welcome to the group. I am attaching a couple of links that may be useful to you in deciding what to use to protect your SS from the elements. Personally I use Johnson paste wax and for awhile used top coat for the table top, but have been convinced that Johnson paste wax doesn't cause any problems. The other link is an archived sawdust session that talks about maintenance for the SS. Also there is an excellent DVD put out by Rick Davis who's is a traveling Academy Instructor called the Shopsmith Journals and is all about maintenance and alignment which is essential to getting the best results from your new tool, You can order it from Shopsmiths web site. Hope this helps you. Also if you put some information on your profile as to what area you live in, you may be close to other SS owners.

Ron

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=926
http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Arch ... enance.htm
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... gnment.htm

[2manband]

Thanks for the replies guys - looks like a can of Johnson Paste wax is in my future.

I also ran a search on rust (after I started the thread) and was kind of suprised that nobody mentioned Hoppe's No. 9 solvent. This worked well for me to remove surface rust on the small parts. I used a toothbrush and the corner of a scotchbrite pad. I may go after some of the more oxidized areas with some fine steel wool and the No. 9. I considered WD-40, but didn't want the product to leave a residue, as WD-40 can do.

[Ed in Tampa]

Thanks for the replies guys - looks like a can of Johnson Paste wax is in my future.

I also ran a search on rust (after I started the thread) and was kind of suprised that nobody mentioned Hoppe's No. 9 solvent. This worked well for me to remove surface rust on the small parts. I used a toothbrush and the corner of a scotchbrite pad. I may go after some of the more oxidized areas with some fine steel wool and the No. 9. I considered WD-40, but didn't want the product to leave a residue, as WD-40 can do.

I had forgottten about Hopps #9 that I used in my old hunting days there in Pa. In fact I think I may still have some of it in my old gun cleaning kit. Haven't hunted in 30 years since leaving the north.

Yes get yourself some Johnson paste wax and polish that new machine up.
Ed

[8iowa]

Welcome to the Shopsmith family! You have the perfect machine for a garage based woodworking shop.

This is a long Winter and you might want to add a little heat. I put a 5100 BTU ceramic electric heater in my garage and this has done a good job of taking the chill out of the air. Up where you are you might want two heaters. I insulated my metal garage door by purchasing several 4'x8' sheets of 1" foam insulation and cut it to fit the individual panels and put them in place with adhesive.

Basically, Winter air is very dry. Your rust problem will begin with the Summer humidity. A "thru the wall" A/C unit of about 12000 BTU will do a great job in helping to avoid rust. It's hard to put oil and wax everywhere, although you should do that too.

[Nick]

"...didn't want the product to leave a residue..."

Not to pop anyone's bubble, but if it doesn't leave a residue it's not going to protect the surface from rusting. The residue is what provides the barrier to moisture and air. If you want a residue you can easily wipe off when you're ready to use the tool, I suggest T-9 by Boeshield. If you want a residue that you don't have to wipe off, very little comes close to paste wax.

With all good wishes,

[a1gutterman]

Oh - and one more question:

My workshop is my (unheated) garage here in Pennsylvania. To prevent rust from forming in the future, I'm planning to keep things lightly oiled, keep the accessories stored in a plastic toolbox with a tight fitting lid, and use a vinyl dust cover over the machine while it's in storage. Any other precautions I should take?

None of my rust issues go beyond a little surface oxidation, but, as I'm planning to use the machine for the next 40-50 years, I want to make sure that I store and care for it properly.

Welcome to the forum 2manband,
Oil has it's place, even on a SS Mark V. But wax is preferable in many locations. Glad you decided to go with some Johnson's. SS offers some of that touch-up paint that you are after. See this http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=505706&Submit=Find+Item

You will have many years of happiness with your "new" machine, and plenty of people here to help you wth any problems that might arise.

[charlese]

Inside of my router bit boxes, I throw in some of those little desiccant bags that come with pills and some electronic equipment. After a while those bags add up to be a pretty effective moisture soaker upper. Worked great in South Texas and still works here (if it's needed at all here).