Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
Ed in Tampa wrote:I would love an depth gauge, easier to read tilt (hard to see with 520 upgrade) and a outfeed table that moves with the main table.
The depth gauge so I could get back to a previous setting I always forget to measure my last setup so I can repeat it.
The tilt scale is really hard for me to read since I put on the 520 upgrade and combined with bioptical glasses I do some interesting moves to read it.
The outfeed table that moves with main table is my biggest want. I hate having to adjust everything, going back and set my outfeed table, then finding I need a slight tweak and having to go back and readjust my outfeed table again.
On the infeed side I find that with me holding the wood I have more than enough support.
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An on/off switch that is placed where we could bump it off. Perhaps around knee or shin level.
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Ed
When it comes to what we need/want in the woodshop, we must think alot alike.
DEPTH GAUGE: I have attached a photo of a "concept" for the installation of a depth of cut gauge. I think the photos speak for them selves. The pointer would be attached to the carriage and the measuring device would be attached to the table.
TILT SCALE: I've put this on hold until I have completed my cataract surgery. Maybe I won't need this.
ADJUSTABLE TILTING OUTFEED TABLE: The prototype is done! It works, I used it last week to cut a bunch of bevel cuts for a neighber. The proto type outfeed table is attached to the main table and moves up and down and tilts with the main table. It is equipped with a riving knife and an adjustable rip fence extension.
CONVENIENTLY LOCATED ON/OFF SWITCH: I am searching for the right switch and this task will be done. I am looking for a magnetic switch rated at 20A that fits into my scheme. You've seen my proto type without the magnetic switch. I want to have two three way switches so that I can turn it on/off from two different locations.
Attachments
Depth Gauge 1.JPG (147.85 KiB) Viewed 8822 times
Depth Gauge 2.JPG (152.6 KiB) Viewed 8815 times
Outfeed table and_Adjustable Fence.JPG (150 KiB) Viewed 8835 times
Outfeed table Support.JPG (144.22 KiB) Viewed 8831 times
Tilted Table and Accessories.JPG (159.73 KiB) Viewed 8832 times
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
If the headstock is not too expensive and available in the US, I believe I could modify it as a replacement for the Mark V headstock. I will see what I can find out about it. It would be limited for sawing depth without an speed increaser and extending and/or raising the saw blade arbor. Everything else should work as there appears to be adaptors available for both motor ends. It would make a really state of the art woodworking machine and something I would love to play with.
sandyj wrote:I have seen and used the following at a demo here in NZ.
I liked the smoothness and quietness of this unit.
Now if the headstock could be combined with the Shopsmith's versatility, I believe you would have a world beater.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Great job on the outfeed table and the riving knife. They look like they do exactly what they need to do.
The adjustable fence on the outfeed table...how is it attached to the ends of the guide arms? This looks like something I might want to do if I add an outfeed extension to my 500.
Thanks for posting the pictures. Your innovations are inspirational!
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
I sat looking at that kludge I concocked for a depth of cut indicator - NO WAY! It's much simpler!!
All that is really required is a measuring stick and a line on one of the main table tubes. I put a piece of orange electricians tape on a tube for a test.
See photos. I would also need a 6" ruler with a darker set of numbers and markings. I have one - but I use it all the time - can't devote it to this task. The table is horizontal and set for 0" depth of cut.
I've gotta remove and reinstall the table a few times to see if it reseats in the carriage the same each time.
Attachments
Depth Gauge 1.JPG (138.92 KiB) Viewed 8817 times
Depth Gauge 2.JPG (146.33 KiB) Viewed 8807 times
Depth Gauge 3.JPG (145.42 KiB) Viewed 8799 times
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
That outfeed table looks good!!!!!!
I think you have a handle on the depth guage.
My problem with the tilt scale is not eye sight problem but a line of vision problem. Before the 520 upgrade the scale was easily read looking under the table. However the 520 upgrade the new table fence rail is much bigger and blocks the view. I have to tilt my head the whole way past horizontal almost like standing on my head to see the scale. Then I'm looking upside down either through my bifocials or I'm off the glass entirely. I learned if I kneel in front of the machine and look up under and behind the table fence rail I can see it. But I sure hate getting on my knees on the hard concrete floor. My knees are way too boney for that.
Ed
Dusty- The outfeed table looks great! And that's a nice easy solution to the depth gauge readout. I usually use one of the inexpensive plastic vernier calipers to measure the height of the blade above the table, but now maybe I'll try to figure out how to attach it to the post and carriage instead. Also, I've never measured it, but there should be some correlation between number of revolutions of the table height handwheel and inches of travel. Next time I set it up in saw mode, I'll try to remember to measure it.
But I do have a question- Under what conditions do you need a rip fence extension? I thought that once the wood was past the blade and riving knife, it was better to let the wood do what it wants to. Obviously if the piece between the blade and fence warps toward the blade, the riving knife is there to keep it from pinching the blade. But if it wants to warp toward the fence, and you have an auxiliary fence preventing it, won't that cause sideways pressure against the blade's back teeth and lead to burning the wood? Tell me if I'm totally off base here, it wouldn't be the first time!
Ed, I totally sympathize with your knees. I've given up looking at that tilt scale and totally rely on the Wixey angle gauge now. I know, I'm spoiled.
Please enlighten all of us as to the benefits that having that extended fence presents.
greitz wrote:Dusty........................But I do have a question- Under what conditions do you need a rip fence extension? I thought that once the wood was past the blade and riving knife, it was better to let the wood do what it wants to. Obviously if the piece between the blade and fence warps toward the blade, the riving knife is there to keep it from pinching the blade. But if it wants to warp toward the fence, and you have an auxiliary fence preventing it, won't that cause sideways pressure against the blade's back teeth and lead to burning the wood? Tell me if I'm totally off base here, it wouldn't be the first time!...........................Gary
Like Gary, I can't think of any..........my brain must be asleep or something?
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
With the table tilted, the stock on the outfeed side of the blade won't just lay there, it tends to slide down hill.
The fence helps to deal with that. If you work with a shop helper, it may not be necessary but I often work alone.
I don't do a lot of work with the table tilted but this last week has taught me that this configuration is a bit different than with the table horizontal. If you find yourself using the tilted table - be careful, think things through. Stay safe.
"Making Sawdust Safely" Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
dusty wrote:With the table tilted, the stock on the outfeed side of the blade won't just lay there, it tends to slide down hill................
That is a good point, Dusty. I usually do those kind of cuts on my arbor tilting saw, so I was not thinking about the gravity problem. Thanks for the answer!
Tim
Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
Thanks for the answer!