Proper wood for jigs

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ipbarnard
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Proper wood for jigs

Post by ipbarnard »

I am looking at building a couple of jigs for my SS.

Would 3/4 ply be too heavy?

Thanks,
Foster From Flint
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

ipbarnard wrote:I am looking at building a couple of jigs for my SS.

Would 3/4 ply be too heavy?

Thanks,
Foster From Flint
Insufficient input. What kind/size jig?:confused:
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

My wood of choice for nearly all jigs has been 1/2" Baltic Birch plywood. Baltic Birch tends to be a bit pricey and in some areas is difficult to find. If you plan several jigs, I suggest you designate specific saw blades for use with the Baltic Birch (plywood). Plywood dulls the blade more quickly.
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billmayo
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Post by billmayo »

I try to use 3/4" oak boards for many of my jigs. I plane and sand for a really fine finish and use a poly on them if they test out OK. I do move some of my jigs to aluminum if I will be using them many times for a lot of years. Sometimes, I just grab whatever wood is available to see if the jig is worthwhile to maybe used again. Not always the case. Then I make the jig again taking more care and better material. However, most of my jigs are for metal type working.
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WmZiggy
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Post by WmZiggy »

Like JPG noted, much depends on the type and size of the jig. Regular plywood can have air pockets in the layers. Recently I made and extension table for my SS using 3/4" plastic laminated particle board I bought at Home Depot. It has worked well, even holding threaded inserts. The material is available in all sizes for making shelves and is reasonable priced.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

Small pieces of baltic birch are sold by 'Michaels' craft stores. Up to 1/2" by (IIRC) 2' x 1'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

I normally do all jigging using "WIH" (What I Have :D ) It is the cheapest stuff I can use. :)

I do have a supply of decent sized scraps from a local kitchen cabinet factory. I used to have access to their big dumpster of scrap for firewood. I don't know if I still can since I suspect that my old friend there has retired. Much of the pieces that I saved were a birch looking plywood with a lot of ply's. I am not sure if it is Baltic Birch of not but it is very high quality stuff. The biggest problem with it is that I got it several years ago and stashed it in a loft. It would now maybe take a half day to quarry safely back to that area. :o

One of the farm stores down the road carries 4' X 8' sheets of what I am pretty sure is high density polyethylene in several thickness from .25" to at least .50". It looks just like the material the Router Workshop guys use for a fence and jigs. IIRC it runs about $50 to $60 a sheet for the .50". Livestock farmers especially hog farmers use this stuff and some of the more fancy horse farms use some of it. I have intended to get a sheet of .50" to use for jigs. One 4' X 8' sheet should make a "LOT" of jigs.


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garys
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Post by garys »

I usually use maple. It is relatively cheap, and easily available.
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curiousgeorge
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Post by curiousgeorge »

Most of the time I use MDF. It's perfectly flat, cheap(er) and doesn't warp. Just keep it dry and no problem. I usually seal it with spray lacquer or even just a liberal coat of paste wax to help keep it dry.
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