I'm thinking of buying my first Shopsmith. I'm a novice woodworker. Could anyone tell me what uses they find for the horizontal boring machine?
And specifically: can it make super long, super straight and fairly narrow holes? See attached. I'm pretty sure that hinge is a finger joint that's been rounded over, then a hole was drilled down the center. I would guess the knuckles are probably around 0.5" thick x 0.75" wide; the total length would be something like 7.25".
Gene Howe wrote:The horizontal boring function is ideal for that.
+1 on that. Some finer points of controlling bit-wandering, chips-clearing, etc. will need to be kept in mind, but the SS is a super tool. I always say my power drilling routine is 80% horizontal boring, 20% vertical press.
nuhobby wrote:+1 on that. Some finer points of controlling bit-wandering, chips-clearing, etc. will need to be kept in mind, but the SS is a super tool. I always say my power drilling routine is 80% horizontal boring, 20% vertical press.
Are there tutorials on its use that cover these things? Or is it something that one learns by doing?
What kind of bits does the horizontal borer take? Do they have to purchased from Shopsmith?
Some experience, some tutorials. If your workpieces are being bored across the grain (like the photo you posted), the bit-type isn't super-critical; a brad-point bit can do fine. On the other hand, some woodturning projects entail drilling into end-grain, and in these cases some different bit-types are suggested for that more difficult task. I can't recall exactly where to find a summary, but I'll bet more Forum members will pitch in.
All drill bits can be subject to some wandering. For a long bore you might minimize this effect by boring 1/2 in from one side, and 1/2 in from the other side.
I think both of them will help you accomplish your tasks.
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1981 Mark V 500, bandsaw, belt sander, jig saw, jointer; contractor's table saw; multiple circular saws and miter saws; and a trailer full of tools.
"It is better to remain silent and thought a fool than to speak out and remove all doubt"
Abraham Lincoln
harveydunn wrote:What kind of bits does the horizontal borer take? Do they have to purchased from Shopsmith?
Anyone use it for making mortises?
It will take any bit that you can fit into the Jacobs chuck. Typically from 5/64" to 1/2" shank size. Your problem is going to be more of the LENGTH of your bits.
You can use the horizontal borer setup for most drilling needs.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop. .
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Bob
Back to your intended task. IIWM, I would only drill out the two outer parts of both hinge halves. Then pin. The inner (hell what does one call the parts of a hinge that the pin goes through???)* thingeys are likely faux(pardon my french!;)).
As for the title question, just about any small workpiece.
Flipping the table to 'vertical', mounting the rip fence(which now has a horizontal face) and setting the workpiece on de fence. Proceed to bore(or whatever) as usual. Vertical positioning can be done with either the fence or the table height crank/lever. Horizontal positioning can be done by digital manipulation.
Knuckles??? Sounds good to me!!! Missed that the first time.
P.S. Brain Flash Warning (BFW?) Drill a small hole using a music wire bit through each half and observe for any 'wandering' at each knuckle(I learn quickly) face. A music wire bit has a bevel flat ground on the end. Music wire is the source of the 'drill' shaft. Insert a smaller wire for the 'pin'. Then make the end pins(dowel) 'faux'. Rotate 'bit' slowly when drilling. Back out to clear debris often. May need two 'bits'. Small one as a pilot, second to create clearance as you drill the next knuckle. Drill from both ends. I warned you!!!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
A friend of mine an excellent woodworker, but a "tool snob":rolleyes: made fun of my Shopsmith 510 as being "expensive junk" (blah,blah).
However, one day while we were having coffee, he said his drill press just wouldn't go high enough to drill holes in the ends of shutter louvers. I said (with a grin) what you need is a horizontal borer. He remarked - "but I don't have one of those!"
With a bigger grin, I said "I DO!!!"
In a few hours we had all of his louvers drilled. He was so happy, I never heard another disparaging word about my 510.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
