So I finally got my 520 yesterday!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:17 am

Oh a chuck key at HD would be just duckey. You said chuck! Some 'safety stuff' may fit.

Which drill chuck do you have?

A pix will tell us!;)

jerm · Post by **jerm** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 10:21 am

Thanks for all the information Dusty!

Okay - so yeah, I figured I'd take the chuck to HD with me, seems the safest bet.

Long pole - Figured out what it is! It's the table wall-mount bar that SS sells, where you can mount the long bar on two "shelf brackets" and holds your main table and two floatings out of the way. Browsed SS's shop this morning and found it.

Locks - Oh yeah, I've found out flex = something unlocked. I'm pretty good at checking all 5 now.

Insert - It was definitely above a normal bow - one could see it was damaged on one side by a blade, but not the other - It's pretty flat now.

Question, though - Table Levelness

I'm using a Starrett, ridiculously expensive (but very nice) 12" combo square to check table evenness. Supposedly it's accurate to within .0001" on all measuring surfaces, so my square isn't an issue.

Now, on the left side of the main table (the 510/520 table), (left of the blade/right miter slot), the table is completely even.

When I move this straight edge to the RIGHT side of the table (sorta past the blade, going from memory), there is a small but noticeable difference in table height. I have a feeling it's enough to slightly throw off a 90 cut if I was cutting a long board that crossed both sides of the table, but I'm not so sure just yet.

How much should I expect of the 510 main table? I've calibrated the entire SS VERY thoroughly, locked everything down, etc. It's a very stable platform.

The table itself, though, just isn't even from one side to another. This is worrying. Maybe I can get a measurement or a photo later to explain better.

It doesn't seem to be warped or bowed or anything, but literally the right side is fractionally lower than the left.

lerbi · Post by **lerbi** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 11:37 am

I know that there are lots of threads about ZCI's but Dusty what method did you use to increase the length of the slot so that there was room to attach the splitter?

wa2crk · Post by **wa2crk** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:05 pm

lerbi
I read your inquiry to Dusty about the ZCI and I extended the slot in mine on the router table and lowering the ZCI over the 1/4" bit to extend the slot.

[ATTACH]23899[/ATTACH]

Bill V

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 1:58 pm

jerm wrote:Thanks for all the information Dusty!

Okay - so yeah, I figured I'd take the chuck to HD with me, seems the safest bet.

Long pole - Figured out what it is! It's the table wall-mount bar that SS sells, where you can mount the long bar on two "shelf brackets" and holds your main table and two floatings out of the way. Browsed SS's shop this morning and found it.

Locks - Oh yeah, I've found out flex = something unlocked. I'm pretty good at checking all 5 now.

Insert - It was definitely above a normal bow - one could see it was damaged on one side by a blade, but not the other - It's pretty flat now.

Question, though - Table Levelness

I'm using a Starrett, ridiculously expensive (but very nice) 12" combo square to check table evenness. Supposedly it's accurate to within .0001" on all measuring surfaces, so my square isn't an issue.

Now, on the left side of the main table (the 510/520 table), (left of the blade/right miter slot), the table is completely even.

When I move this straight edge to the RIGHT side of the table (sorta past the blade, going from memory), there is a small but noticeable difference in table height. I have a feeling it's enough to slightly throw off a 90 cut if I was cutting a long board that crossed both sides of the table, but I'm not so sure just yet.

How much should I expect of the 510 main table? I've calibrated the entire SS VERY thoroughly, locked everything down, etc. It's a very stable platform.

The table itself, though, just isn't even from one side to another. This is worrying. Maybe I can get a measurement or a photo later to explain better.

It doesn't seem to be warped or bowed or anything, but literally the right side is fractionally lower than the left.

Without knowing just how much your table is out, it is hard to say but I doubt that you are going to have any real problems. I say this based on my own experience with five or six different tables]the link[/URL] here when I find it.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 2:27 pm

jerm wrote: . . .

It doesn't seem to be warped or bowed or anything, but literally the right side is fractionally lower than the left.

That is a description of 'tilted'.?????

Or is the gap the same across the entire right side.

I gotta add this: Quit looking for 'deviations' that would only be significant in a machine shop!

jerm · Post by **jerm** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 3:20 pm

JPG40504 wrote:That is a description of 'tilted'.?????

Or is the gap the same across the entire right side.

I gotta add this: Quit looking for 'deviations' that would only be significant in a machine shop!

No not tilted, but the gap seems to be uniform across the right side. I'll post photos later just for FYI for anyone interested.

As for the suggestion to quit looking - sorry, I can't do it! My OCD is too great of a force

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 4:59 pm

jerm wrote: As for the suggestion to quit looking - sorry, I can't do it! My OCD is too great of a force

EGADS... ANOTHER ONE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 5:06 pm

JPG40504 wrote:That is a description of 'tilted'.?????

Or is the gap the same across the entire right side.

I gotta add this: Quit looking for 'deviations' that would only be significant in a machine shop!

Did you really "Gotta Add That" or is this just something that you enjoy doing.

I happen to believe that what he is doing (exploring the characteristics of his new machine) is beneficial and would be for any user that would do so with an open mind.

I think we all know that wood working, especially on a multi function machine, is not a precision operation. That does not preclude our doing set ups and calibrations as accurately as they can be done.

This machine is new to him. If he has a table with a significant dip in the middle, it would be nice to know that before he screws up a project because he failed to consider that dip.

BTW: If a dip is the table is going to cause a problem, it will probably first be noticed while in the drill press mode. Ask me how I know.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jan 30, 2014 6:00 pm

dusty wrote:Did you really "Gotta Add That" or is this just something that you enjoy doing.

I happen to believe that what he is doing (exploring the characteristics of his new machine) is beneficial and would be for any user that would do so with an open mind.

I think we all know that wood working, especially on a multi function machine, is not a precision operation. That does not preclude our doing set ups and calibrations as accurately as they can be done.

This machine is new to him. If he has a table with a significant dip in the middle, it would be nice to know that before he screws up a project because he failed to consider that dip.

BTW: If a dip is the table is going to cause a problem, it will probably first be noticed while in the drill press mode. Ask me how I know.

I did 'gotta', but in hindsight it was mis-directed.

I was thinking of onevw's post re 5 axis cnc whiz bang etc.

Apparently I am quite capable of gittin confused these days.

I don't think it is a dip. Not sure what to call it other than stepped or bi-level.

I haven't heard 'how much'.

I have considered(not yet done) making a melamine/particle board for use with the drill press(and likely routing as well).