Has anyone used Glidecote and/or Bladecote?

[pieceseeker]

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... alants.htm

Just received a can of Glidecote (formerly Topcote) and Bladecote (formerly Dricote). I thought I might try these for table and tool maintenance. I'm fighting rust and corrosion in my shop from high humidity. It's in a screened in back porch which needs to be enclosed (working on that). I do keep the stuff covered and waxed, but that's not good enough. I would need to wax every inch of 2 machines and all the SPT's every 2 weeks. Just don't have that kind of time, so I'm checking out these products to see if they will help in this regard.

Any thoughts or other product suggestions welcome!

[reible]

I don't have the humidity issues you describe. So for me the wax seems to work well enough.

I did buy some Dri Cote which was labeled for blade and bit cutting lubricant which I used for that application.

I hope that you are using a breathable cover, plastic traps moisture and should not be used. My local machines do get covered from time to time with old white sheets just to keep the dust off.

Ed

[pieceseeker]

I'm using cloth painters drop cloths.

[BuckeyeDennis]

My shop environment is a lot less challenging than yours, but I have had problems with rust re-forming after using Evaporust to restore vintage tools. I subsequently stumbled upon a two-step process that so far has been 100% effective at preventing rust from re-forming.

Step #1 is to apply Penetrol liberally, following Evaporust treatment and subsequent buffing/polishing down to bright metal. Left alone, the Penetrol will stay tacky for days, and then eventually dry hard and freeze up any moving parts. But it really does seem to penetrate as claimed down into any pits and grain, and prevent rust from forming down there.

Step #2 is to wipe down the tool with WD40 after a day or two, while the Penetrol is still tacky. It removes the Penetrol from the surface, but apparently leaves it down in the pits and deep grain. I have yet to have any rust reappear after this treatment, even after extensive handling. Treated with WD40 alone, rust starts re-forming within weeks.

My various cast-iron tables are in good shape, and JPW alone has been sufficient to prevent rust. But I see no reason why JPW could not be applied as a third step in the process above, when a clean slippery surface is needed.

[Mike907]

It's admittedly dryer here, but at the local woodturner's club, after turning classes, they spray the lathes with WD-40, which they buy in gallon cans and put in plastic spray bottles. The lathes get pretty wet when turning green wood, but they are all rust free.

Mike

[JPG]

It's admittedly dryer here, but at the local woodturner's club, after turning classes, they spray the lathes with WD-40, which they buy in gallon cans and put in plastic spray bottles. The lathes get pretty wet when turning green wood, but they are all rust free.

Mike

So ya spray them with water that has oil dispersed in it.

[charlese]

So ya spray them with water that has oil dispersed in it.

WD 40 is not at all water with oil in it:eek:

WD-40 is the fortieth formula the inventors tried when they were searching for a water dispersing liquid.

This from Wickipedia:

Formulation

WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product was not patented in 1953 to avoid disclosing the details of its composition—the window of opportunity for patenting the product has long since closed.[4][7] WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

51% Stoddard solvent (In 1953 this was the predominant cleaning fluid used by dry cleaners.)
25% liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant]http://wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/[/url]

[JPG]

WD 40 is not at all water with oil in it:eek:

WD-40 is the fortieth formula the inventors tried when they were searching for a water dispersing liquid.

This from Wickipedia:

Formulation

WD-40's formula is a trade secret. The product was not patented in 1953 to avoid disclosing the details of its composition—the window of opportunity for patenting the product has long since closed.[4][7] WD-40's main ingredients, according to U.S. Material Safety Data Sheet information, are:

51% Stoddard solvent (In 1953 this was the predominant cleaning fluid used by dry cleaners.)
25% liquefied petroleum gas (presumably as a propellant]http://wd40.com/about-us/myths-legends-fun-facts/[/URL]

My bad!!!!:o I shoulda known better!

So mineral spirits and mineral oil.


Considering it's original purpose, an extremely appropriate use of it!

[Ed in Tampa]

I live in Florida obviously from my Id and I keep my SS in the garage with the door that is usually open. Yes for those that don't know Florida has high humidity.

Also for reasons I won't detail the clothes dries vent blows into the garage and is about 7 feet from my SS. There are iron bar clamps stored above the vent with the bars inches away.

If I work on my SS and sweat I will probably leave a spot or two that will rust so I have made it a practice to wipe down the SS with Johnson Paste Wax after every use.

On things like the clamps most have been Flood's pentrol treated, painted on and left to dry.

I also tend to wipe oil on metal things as I use them. If they feel dry to me I get a little marvel mystery oil on my hands rub them together and then rub the tool.

I also cover my SS and SPTs with various covers. The SS and jointer are under moving blankets, the bandsaw in a more or less sealed plastic garbage bag. My miter saw and planer under bath towels. My tables and connector tube and floating table hang from a hand made rack on the wall.

I won't claim to be totally rust free but I don't get enough rust to be a problem.

When I do I use the Complete Topsaver System which won top honors in a Wood mag comparison test. The product comes with a liquid you squirt on, a micro fiber scouring pad and a burnishing cloth.

Directions spray on, let stand, go over area with scouring pad keeping the area wet with the liquid and when all rust is gone wipe it clean. Spray again let it dry and buff.

I usually follow it with a coat of Johnson paste wax. I check each tool for rust fairly regularly at least once every 6 months if I haven't used them before.

The bench tubes on the my SS are Flood's Pentrol treated. I don't put Pentrol on areas that rub, it wears off.

[beeg]

The bench tubes on the my SS are Flood's Pentrol treated. I don't put Pentrol on areas that rub, it wears off.

Is that just on the outside or do ya treat the inside of the tube also?