Has anyone used Glidecote and/or Bladecote?

[keakap]

[url]... Glidecote (formerly Topcote) ... for table and tool maintenance. I'm fighting rust and corrosion in my shop from high humidity....!

I use Topcote. Dricote. Boeshield. WD40. JPW. Other related formulations, potions and incantations.

Most effective here= Boeshield. Next (close) Topcote. I don't think anything would work at all without JPW on everything.

BUT.

As far as I know there is no other location in the States with our particular breed of "humidity", and it defeats all the above eventually. It'll even leach the oils out of a rosewood and brass try square and create an unremovable stain.
Ya see, our "humidity" contains, at daily varying amounts, depending on wind strength and direction, sulfuric acid, complements of Kilauea on da Beeg Island, which has been blowing its smelly top continuously (the world's most active volcano) since 1983.
{And I just remembered a conversation once with a global warming whackjob who was trying to tell me that a volcano like Kilauea (putting out milions of tons a day-every day-of "stuff") wasn't anywhere near the problem for our atmosphere than is the exhausts of all of America's SUVs (only America's, except for Al Gore's).}

I would venture a guess that since Boeshield is somewhat effective here it could be dynomite anywhere else.

[joshh]

Anyone used this? If so, how does it compare to the paste wax?
http://homedepot.com/p/One-Step-22-oz-N ... 100121028/

[benush26]

I use Glide-cote on all sliding surfaces, including the bottom of the rip fence. Tried dri-cote on blades and drill bits. I found that it is easier to keep the blades clean to count on a decent non-burning cut. However, I still use the Dri-cote on drill bits as well as clean them.
I do use JPW on external surfaces like way tubes, but it doesn't last as long on the tables (saw, band saw [aluminum], jointer, scroll saw, planer), so I use Glide-cote on those. I use Boeshield on the cast band saw table.

Though paste wax is a good all use product, I've found that I have favorites for different surfaces.

As a strange aside, I found some Teflon rub on coating that I use for jigs with a melamine surface so boards slide really easy along them.

[Ed in Tampa]

Is that just on the outside or do ya treat the inside of the tube also?

Outside only. If they rust through I will probably be dead.

[robinson46176]

I was apprehensive about rusting when I moved the woodshop to the basement but I am amazed constantly by the lack of rusting. My last 3 woodshop locations were horrible about tool sweating and rusting from wide temperature changes. Even painted surfaces were prone to rusting after time. Covering machines with old sheets helped some but not enough. This basement was at one time a bit damp but my father had sat up a dehumidifier to use in the spring and fall. After he passed my mother refused to use it and much of the stuff they had stored there was ruined by the moisture. When we moved to this house we ran the dehumidifier spring and fall and things mostly dried out. Then I installed the wood furnace in the basement and we started using AC in the hot season. Since then it has never been at all damp even in spring and fall. I did also open up the stairs and upstairs air and downstairs air are constantly circulated. The dehumidifier gave out years ago and it has not been needed.
Oh crap... Our winter storm just started. 2 minutes ago, nothing. Now almost white-out...
OK, back to the basement. I can lay a piece of bare steel anywhere including the floor and it will not rust. I will still use JPW but for the easy sliding, not for rust.
Having a couple of years of experience with this basement shop which is warm all winter and cool all summer if I now wanted to move the woodshop I would have to go out and dig a basement to put it in.
This one has a fairly high ceiling, almost 8'. As we watch a lot of the house remodel TV shows I am amazed at how many have basements where the guys head rubs the ceiling. Why would you build a house that way? Many of these are fairly newish homes. I understand why some of the old ones are shallow as many were dug out under real old houses after they were built. Often so a big ole gravity hot air furnace could replace main floor stoves. Digging out that much dirt was a lot of work and expense. If you are building new why not make it high enough for optimal ceiling heights instead of ducking beams, pipes and duct work...


.

[pieceseeker]

My shop environment is a lot less challenging than yours, but I have had problems with rust re-forming after using Evaporust to restore vintage tools. I subsequently stumbled upon a two-step process that so far has been 100% effective at preventing rust from re-forming.

Step #1 is to apply Penetrol liberally, following Evaporust treatment and subsequent buffing/polishing down to bright metal. Left alone, the Penetrol will stay tacky for days, and then eventually dry hard and freeze up any moving parts. But it really does seem to penetrate as claimed down into any pits and grain, and prevent rust from forming down there.

Step #2 is to wipe down the tool with WD40 after a day or two, while the Penetrol is still tacky. It removes the Penetrol from the surface, but apparently leaves it down in the pits and deep grain. I have yet to have any rust reappear after this treatment, even after extensive handling. Treated with WD40 alone, rust starts re-forming within weeks.

My various cast-iron tables are in good shape, and JPW alone has been sufficient to prevent rust. But I see no reason why JPW could not be applied as a third step in the process above, when a clean slippery surface is needed.

Since your post, I've been reading up on the benefits of Penetrol, and they sound quite impressive. It seems that Penetrol has 3 times the penetrating power over water thanks to it's very low surface tension. I think that your 2 step treatment is definitely something I'll give a try.

One question though, what is the product # your quart can? I've seen the number 400, and 405, 410, and 415 on product descriptions. Most are billed as paint enhancers, with 415 being used for oil based paints. That one is $45 a quart! Makes me wonder if that's the highest quality for outdoor durability. Some of the others run around $10-$15 a quart.

Thanks for all your suggestions and solutions!

[rlkeeney]

Johnson's Paste Wax and oil work well for me in Florida. If get rust on tools it's because I got lazy and didn't wax or oil them before putting them away.

[BuckeyeDennis]

Since your post, I've been reading up on the benefits of Penetrol, and they sound quite impressive. It seems that Penetrol has 3 times the penetrating power over water thanks to it's very low surface tension. I think that your 2 step treatment is definitely something I'll give a try.

One question though, what is the product # your quart can? I've seen the number 400, and 405, 410, and 415 on product descriptions. Most are billed as paint enhancers, with 415 being used for oil based paints. That one is $45 a quart! Makes me wonder if that's the highest quality for outdoor durability. Some of the others run around $10-$15 a quart.

Thanks for all your suggestions and solutions!

The only product code that I could find on my can was "FLD4". It is indeed intended for oil-based paints. I bought it at the local HD for about $9, and I think that the local Ace has it as well. Here's a link to the HD product page.

[JPG]

Anyone used this? If so, how does it compare to the paste wax?
http://homedepot.com/p/One-Step-22-oz-No-Buff-Fine-Wood-Wax-00125/100121028/

'Sounds' like 'pledge'!

[JPG]

FYI: . . . . . .
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