I'm not yet a SS owner but am scouring Craigs List daily waiting for a beaut to pop up in my area.
I got an email today from the SS company advertising their mortise and tenon package. This is, without doubt, my favorite kind of joint. However...I know that people who have tried mortising attachments on non-SS drill presses say they are horrible and probably worse than useless.
So then: is the SS one any different?
How well does the mortise and tenon package work
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harveydunn
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Can be, but in my opinion there are quite a few ways to make mortises that are simpler and easier than the mortise attachment - in fact any mortise attachment. The set up configuration is a major key to succsess.
Use the search function of this forum and you will find much info about thes attachment.
Also look at the mortise attachment video (and blackboard) in the "Sawdust Sessions".
Use the search function of this forum and you will find much info about thes attachment.
Also look at the mortise attachment video (and blackboard) in the "Sawdust Sessions".
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
R
I've not used the SS system but have used mortising machines. I found three critical things.
1. The chisel needs to be very sharp, just like a hand chisel.
If the chisel is slightly dull the force needed to make the cut increases greatly. With a hand chisel you can use a hammer if you want to increase the pressure. With the machine that equates to more force pressing down on the handle.
2. The distance between the end of the bit and end of the chisel varies with the size of the bit and chisel as well as the type of wood.
I sometimes think it was more magic (or dumb luck) to get the gap correct. It also can vary when hollowing the same species. I think, though don't truly know, that moisture content and grain orientation can make a large difference.
3. Lubrication, lubrication, lubrication!
We sprayed the bit with a coating similar to Dri-cote. The chisel, especially the inside, also got something, but since it was the inside and had to sprayed, it was usually non wood friendly ( like WD40). The exterior of the chisel was paste wax since it had to be applied frequently. That means we were too cheap to use lots of the Dri-cote stuff (I think the name of the company was Excalibur? Or maybe Excelsior?)
Personally I think that mortising machines get a bad reputation because they require more work for them to do their jobs efficiently. Most presume they work as simply as a drill and bit. That's just not the case.
If you have lots of mortises to make, the mechanical way is nice or if they need to be more precise than you believe you can do by hand then use a machine. A friend has the Delta system (multiple collars for a variety of machines). He thought they were more hassle than they were worth. I found the correct sharpening stones with the correct bevel (just like hand chisels, bevel angles are variable), new bits because his were dull and mis-sharpened, played with the offset of chisel and bit and lubed the heck out of it so chips flew and the chisel glided through the wood and he was a happy camper. It's just like any other tool. Improper use makes them frustrating, while proper use makes them a dream.
So back to your question, I presume the SS mortise system is good quality (as is most of their add on equipment) and will do a good to great job if
1. You prefer mechanical to hand mortises
2. You take the time to set it up correctly
Just my 2 cents.
Be well,
Ben
1. The chisel needs to be very sharp, just like a hand chisel.
If the chisel is slightly dull the force needed to make the cut increases greatly. With a hand chisel you can use a hammer if you want to increase the pressure. With the machine that equates to more force pressing down on the handle.
2. The distance between the end of the bit and end of the chisel varies with the size of the bit and chisel as well as the type of wood.
I sometimes think it was more magic (or dumb luck) to get the gap correct. It also can vary when hollowing the same species. I think, though don't truly know, that moisture content and grain orientation can make a large difference.
3. Lubrication, lubrication, lubrication!
We sprayed the bit with a coating similar to Dri-cote. The chisel, especially the inside, also got something, but since it was the inside and had to sprayed, it was usually non wood friendly ( like WD40). The exterior of the chisel was paste wax since it had to be applied frequently. That means we were too cheap to use lots of the Dri-cote stuff (I think the name of the company was Excalibur? Or maybe Excelsior?)
Personally I think that mortising machines get a bad reputation because they require more work for them to do their jobs efficiently. Most presume they work as simply as a drill and bit. That's just not the case.
If you have lots of mortises to make, the mechanical way is nice or if they need to be more precise than you believe you can do by hand then use a machine. A friend has the Delta system (multiple collars for a variety of machines). He thought they were more hassle than they were worth. I found the correct sharpening stones with the correct bevel (just like hand chisels, bevel angles are variable), new bits because his were dull and mis-sharpened, played with the offset of chisel and bit and lubed the heck out of it so chips flew and the chisel glided through the wood and he was a happy camper. It's just like any other tool. Improper use makes them frustrating, while proper use makes them a dream.
So back to your question, I presume the SS mortise system is good quality (as is most of their add on equipment) and will do a good to great job if
1. You prefer mechanical to hand mortises
2. You take the time to set it up correctly
Just my 2 cents.
Be well,
Ben
Hi,
I've had the set for years. When I got it I was more in to that joint world and figured that it would be a good buy.
The first thing I found was it was not all that easy to operate. Upon investigation I found the 500 table was tipping down in the front. I cut a 2 x 4 to length and cut a notch in it for the front of the table. Then when setting up I would adjust the table to the height of the leg and that problem was gone. It cut much better when not twisting. (shopsmith now sells a front leg for the 500 and the newer machines with rails have extension tubes and legs to deal with this)
Second issure, the chisel portion needs to be kept sharp. The older version I have uses two different angle depending on size. So if you have this set you will need to get the two grinder sizes. I believe current designs use only one grind. The second thing I found was that if I cleaned up the outside to get a near or mirror finish they cut much better.
One critical point is to make sure the bit and the chisel have proper clearance. If not things get hot and that will ruin the bit.
Next you need to follow the given procedure of cutting the holes in order.
So to answer the question, yes it works. However it will take a good deal of force as the lever arm is short compare to what are on mortising machines. If you are going to be doing a lot of this work you might want to go for a stand a lone tool.
The other news is that there are plenty of ways to make mortices and using things like a router to get most of the material works out very well. Some here have done this on the shopsmith while I have liked using my router. Now with the powerpro headstock I may want to revisit this.
Another way is to just drill a series of hole and clean them out my hand. The shopsmith works very well for this as the fence keeps the hole locations in line.
Another option is to get replacement chisels and bits that are referred to as "premium" quality, I believe I've seen a nice set at Lee Valley.
A lot to think on before spending the money. If you are in the category of a profession woodworker and do a lot of this work I'd pass on the shopsmith one. If you are a hobby wood worker then the shopsmith system might be just what you need. If you want to go cheap then look in to a hand chisel and drill bit.
Ed
I've had the set for years. When I got it I was more in to that joint world and figured that it would be a good buy.
The first thing I found was it was not all that easy to operate. Upon investigation I found the 500 table was tipping down in the front. I cut a 2 x 4 to length and cut a notch in it for the front of the table. Then when setting up I would adjust the table to the height of the leg and that problem was gone. It cut much better when not twisting. (shopsmith now sells a front leg for the 500 and the newer machines with rails have extension tubes and legs to deal with this)
Second issure, the chisel portion needs to be kept sharp. The older version I have uses two different angle depending on size. So if you have this set you will need to get the two grinder sizes. I believe current designs use only one grind. The second thing I found was that if I cleaned up the outside to get a near or mirror finish they cut much better.
One critical point is to make sure the bit and the chisel have proper clearance. If not things get hot and that will ruin the bit.
Next you need to follow the given procedure of cutting the holes in order.
So to answer the question, yes it works. However it will take a good deal of force as the lever arm is short compare to what are on mortising machines. If you are going to be doing a lot of this work you might want to go for a stand a lone tool.
The other news is that there are plenty of ways to make mortices and using things like a router to get most of the material works out very well. Some here have done this on the shopsmith while I have liked using my router. Now with the powerpro headstock I may want to revisit this.
Another way is to just drill a series of hole and clean them out my hand. The shopsmith works very well for this as the fence keeps the hole locations in line.
Another option is to get replacement chisels and bits that are referred to as "premium" quality, I believe I've seen a nice set at Lee Valley.
A lot to think on before spending the money. If you are in the category of a profession woodworker and do a lot of this work I'd pass on the shopsmith one. If you are a hobby wood worker then the shopsmith system might be just what you need. If you want to go cheap then look in to a hand chisel and drill bit.
Ed