Wood workers bench

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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Wood workers bench

Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

All here,
I am going to be making a wood workes bench, I have a few different plans from the net, I plan on using 4x4 doug fir for the legs. Also want to built it a bit shorter then my table saw hight to use it as an out feed table. Any thoughts plans would be appreciated.
Main question here is I am thinking about putting casters on the legs to move it around, but need it stead when working on it and dont want to spend the $ for 4 castors with a brake. Will just 2 with brakes work ito keep it rock solid if I put them on diagnaly opposite legs with 2 castors without brakes on the other 2 legs?
Thanks, Bob
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WmZiggy
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Post by WmZiggy »

rbursek wrote: Will just 2 with brakes work ito keep it rock solid if I put them on diagnaly opposite legs with 2 castors without brakes on the other 2 legs?
Thanks, Bob
Depends on what you are going to use the bench for. If you are going to hand plane, spokeshave, carve or cut wood or do anything that is needed to resist your body weight and hold the work solid, castors will not give you the "rock solid" you need even with brakes. If it's a bench for lighter work, perhaps.
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forrestb
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try retractable castors

Post by forrestb »

You want your workbench to be rock solid when working. I would not recommend locking wheels since they are not too stable in my experience. Try a retractable type that will allow the legs themselves to be on the floor. These are from WoodRiver but there are others around to fit non-angled legs - I think.

I know it is nice to have an out feed table, but your main consideration should be the best height that allows you to be comfortable when working - planing is a good example. If it is too high or too low you will tire quickly.

Forrest

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beeg
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Post by beeg »

rbursek wrote:Also want to built it a bit shorter then my table saw hight to use it as an out feed table. Any thoughts plans would be appreciated.

Thanks, Bob
Why knot build it at the same height?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

I was going to build it an 1/8-1/4" lower then the TS just so I did not have to worry about catching the edge of it when ripping a longer board. Since in the summer time it may be out in the driveway and knot a totally flat floor plain.
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mountainbreeze
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Post by mountainbreeze »

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=8820

Here is how I did it on my workbench. It works great!
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benush26
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Post by benush26 »

First, I think Forrest has the right idea with flip up casters. That is what I will be using on mine. Then you have the friction of the legs as well as the weight of the bench to keep it from moving when you want steady. Also if you need to shim or change the height of one or more legs, it will be much simpler.

Second, I presume you are not planning on using the SS table saw, since it's height varies. Is the saw you are using movable or stationary? If it is also on casters, would it be a large inconvenience to construct a simple table that be could stored flat against a wall when not in use and then brought out when you need an outfeed table. Then you can set up a production area for cutting as needed without sacrificing space on your work table. Of course how you work, as well as where and how, might mean that the workbench needs to do double or even triple duty. As stated, you should really build a woodworking table for "your" best working height, rather than what is best to catch long stock. Personally I modified my design to use a scissor jack to raise and lower depending upon task.

Third, though possibly more important than the first two is designing your bench. I wrote down everything I want to do on my bench. Work space is very limited so I have to use it for nearly every phase. I have included T-track for my Kreg Klamps, dog holes and 2 vises and lots of drawers underneath. I have included a PVC tube to hold brown paper for glue up protection and even peg board on one end for quick access to some tools. My goal was to design a bench that could hold nearly everything I would want to take with me if I moved from Montana to warmer climates each winter. With such a long winter, I changed the design nearly every other week and still may before I get started next week,:rolleyes: SO... What does your bench HAVE to do and what would you LIKE it to do? Make a budget (and add 10% like any other project), then make your bench fit your budget guided dream.

Just my two cents.

Be well,
Ben
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rlkeeney
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Post by rlkeeney »

What about this?

Image

More info and a video about how it works here.

The only Problem I have found with this is if the bench is to heavy to lift.
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

Thanks rlkeeney!!!!!!!!!! Schwarz ideas and his solutions are usually simple and functional. I like it!!!!!!!!
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
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stephen_a._draper
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Step Down Casters For Workshop Cabinets

Post by stephen_a._draper »

This is what you want. I added these to my workbench last year and they are terrific. Just step down on each one and your bench is on wheels elevated about 1/2 inch off the floor. I have a very heavy bench that can then roll in any direction with just a slight touch of one hand. Each wheel can then be easily lowered so the bench sits solidly on the floor again. Each individual wheel also swivels 360 degrees. Here is the link:

https://woodworker.com/workbench-stepdo ... archmode=2
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