incense cedar for turning?

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Mon May 05, 2014 2:51 am

I was offered whatever chunks I want from a storm downed incense cedar tree down the block. Is it OK to use as wood to start learning bowl turning on? I figure I'll screw up and toss the first number of attempts anyhow.

Thanks,
Fitzhugh

skou · Post by **skou** » Mon May 05, 2014 3:46 am

fitzhugh wrote:I was offered whatever chunks I want from a storm downed incense cedar tree down the block. Is it OK to use as wood to start learning bowl turning on? I figure I'll screw up and toss the first number of attempts anyhow.

Thanks,
Fitzhugh

Fitz, from what I remember, incense cedar is a soft wood, similar to pencil cedar. I'm not sure about turning bowls, but it should turn spindles OK.

If you have an ER jointer head, AND a rodent in a cage, (or a ferret) the cedar shavings work great for bedding. When I lived in Oklahoma, we had a ferret, and the little lady (at the time) was tired of spending MASSIVE amounts of money for cedar shavings for our ferret, so I got a 2X4 of aromatic (incense) cedar and made my own. 10% of the cost.

It is a soft, easily machined wood. Like you said, if you screw up, just toss the mistakes.

Oh, make SURE the wood has dried out.

steve

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon May 05, 2014 10:47 am

Incense cedar!:mad:

New words fer today!;)

Amazing what one learns here!!!:)

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon May 05, 2014 10:49 am

skou wrote:Fitz, from what I remember, incense cedar is a soft wood, similar to pencil cedar. I'm not sure about turning bowls, but it should turn spindles OK.

If you have an ER jointer head, AND a rodent in a cage, (or a ferret) the cedar shavings work great for bedding. When I lived in Oklahoma, we had a ferret, and the little lady (at the time) was tired of spending MASSIVE amounts of money for cedar shavings for our ferret, so I got a 2X4 of aromatic (incense) cedar and made my own. 10% of the cost.

It is a soft, easily machined wood. Like you said, if you screw up, just toss the mistakes.

Oh, make SURE the wood has dried out.

steve

That makes the incense ignite easier while turning.

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Mon May 05, 2014 11:50 am

"Incense" Cedar? Is that what I've always called "Red Aromatic Cedar?" If so, that is one of my favorite woods. I think it's absolutely beautiful. But yeah, it's very soft which can be a problem sometimes. The only bowl I've made so far was with a very dry piece of it. I had a lot of grabbing and later realized I was using the wrong kind of chisel and that it's easier to turn green rather than dry wood.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Mon May 05, 2014 12:23 pm

Any wood can be turned green in fact I prefer green wood to dry when turning bowls and forms. Much easier to turn and cut. Much less sharpening. The drying process can present many wonderful design opportunities.

Soft woods (Conifers with wide growth rings) can be turned easily and are a great learning experience.

Some things to keep in mind when turning soft woods with wide growth rings.

Sharp tools are essential and you will learn about tear out quickly as these types of wood are highly prone to tear out especially when turning the end grain.

The good news is this gives you ample opportunity to practice sharpening skills and a variety of cuts.

When turning green.
Rough your blank out (and don't forget to clean and oil any tools used for cutting the green wood when finished. The moisture in the wood will cause rust.)

Apply wax or WD-40 to anything metal around your lathe (way tubes, bench tubes, tool rest etc.) BEFORE you start turning the moisture will collect on those. Now you have some options. Always remember to clean and wax your lathe and tools when finished with each session of turning wet wood. Rust can and will creep in even over night if not cleaned and dried.

Option 1:The most artistic approach. Turn your vessel to finished dimension, put in a paper bag or card board box with left over shavings packed loosely to control and slow down the release of moisture. If it dries too quickly it will crack. Date the bag and leave in a cool dry place for a few months to finish drying. Let the bowl warp and crack it won't be going back on the lathe. Fill any cracks with filler of your choice (Crushed stone and clear epoxy, various dyed resins, Thick CA glue etc. Sand and finish by hand.

Options 2: Turn the bowl and leave the wall thickness approximately 10% of the diameter. In other words. If turning a 10" bowl leave the wall 1 inch thick. Once rough turned, you have a few drying options.

Option 2a: Put the rough turned bowl in a paper bag or card board box with left over loose shavings from your project to control moisture release weigh and mark the outside with the date and starting weight. Put in a cool dry place with good air circulation and leave it for a few months. Then about once a month weigh again and record the date and weight. When the weight stabilizes, it has reached equilibrium moisture content and is "dry".

Option 2b: Find an inexpensive microwave and study up on microwave drying of wood. (I have never done this method. Warnings from what I have read and heard. Go slowly and be careful not to over heat the wood, it can smolder and catch fire. DO NOT use the Microwave in your house as the smell does not leave the MW or kitchen easily)

Option 2c: get a large covered bucket and enough Denatured Alcohol to submerge your bowl. Submerge for 24-48 hours, remove, wait until dry to the touch. ( I also have not done this method. Too expensive for the DNA and I don't want to deal with that much DNA in my shop. The DNA becomes useless for cleaning and finishing as the water from the wood is mixed in with it.)

Once the bowl is dry, put it back on the lathe do the final sizing and turning, sand, and finish.

I prefer Options 1 (especially for highly figured and live edges) and 2a.

Have fun post pics!

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Mon May 05, 2014 1:00 pm

Yeah, this is definitely not dry! II gather the tree just came down.

I've got a few basic questions:

How large a diameter log should I stick to? It was cut to firewood length but not split. If it matters I'll be using a single bearing quill 1 1/8 HP '82 mark V. I have no problem spending a few hours getting the blank as round as possible with the bandsaw and then hand tools.

I don't have a chainsaw. Can I cut in two/cut out the pith with the bandsaw? I assume I'll want to make a sled to keep the log stable.

I got some help here recently on this but now I'm after more specifics: what size/shape chisels should I start with? For now I'm thinking the traditional type, not carbide like easy wood tools.

Lastly, I've got done reading and video watching to do about work holding. I have a spur center and a live center. I'll get a faceplate off eBay and use a glue block. Not sure what I need for the two stock end during the later parts of the process. I simply can't afford a chuck right now. I'll learn this answer watching/reading the material suggested in a previous thread, but if you feel like giving me the short version for now... Though I don't expect it.

Thank you, I've been enjoying refurbishing the two ssi just got but now I'm I impatient and eager to shape wood with one!

Fitzhugh

fitzhugh · Post by **fitzhugh** » Mon May 05, 2014 1:06 pm

Terry, I was typing when you posted... Thanks! That is great information. Hmmm, maybe I can make a still for the DNA? Yeah, where? in the deep backwoods in Berkeley? Now if it was a closet pot farm it would be right at home (in Berkeley, I mean, not My closet).

But seriously, thanks, that shows I have a range of options.

dgale · Post by **dgale** » Mon May 05, 2014 1:41 pm

heathicus wrote:"Incense" Cedar? Is that what I've always called "Red Aromatic Cedar?"

Incense Cedar (aka Libocedrus decurrens) is a species native to the Pacific Northwest - we found them primarily in drier mid-elevation locations in the Cascade and Sierra Nevada ranges:

http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/silvics_manual/Volume_1/libocedrus/decurrens.htm

I haven't heard of it used much for woodworking but I think that's because it's not a species (at least around here) that gets harvested much. I'd presume it would be similar to most cedars - soft. I can't imagine why you couldn't turn it on a lathe - I have turned redwood plenty and it's as soft as they come. Given that it's free, not much to lose but a bit of time and some experience gained.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Mon May 05, 2014 1:45 pm

For preparing logs into turning stock for vessels, this is a great set of diagrams.

http://fwcwt.org/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/Todd-Hoyers-Turning-Log-Orient.pdf

Contrary to popular opinion, you can turn end grain into a vessel.

I do recommend removing the pith as soon as possible (either by turning or sawing) if you plan on storing the turning stock for any length of time. The pith is the major culprit when it comes to cracking the wood.

I also recommend this thread lots of good Shopsmith specific discussion.
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=11954