wrmnfzy wrote:Tried it according to instructions. Don't see any benefit to it over drawing a circle with a compass and freehand cutting it. Has anybody used this thing with and benefit and success? As a matter of fact had a lot of difficulty with it. If anybody has used it with ease and success please let me know how and why it would be better than freehand circles. I think you would have to sand it anyway using the circle cutter.
Once you figure it out, it is a snap! I giggled at the photo in Shopsmith's add (above). It would have been easier for that operator to slide the table extension under the wood - than shorten the centered arm.
The only important trick I've found is to line up the center (needle) with the front of the blades teeth. The needle, of course will end up the center of the circle. When setting up, set the edge of the wood to be cut against the blade, then run the saw and VERY SLOWLY rotate the wood to allow the blade to find it's way into the wood. After the blade is embedded, you can rotate the wood faster. Always allow the blade to cut. Don't push the wood into the blade.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Y'all kin tell I have not used mine!:D Thought it looked familiar. Recollection failed me this time.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
JPG40504 wrote:Y'all kin tell I have not used mine!:D Thought it looked familiar. Recollection failed me this time.
Me too, neither]to this[/URL] (mine wasn't even this fancy), where I can move the wood into the blade before starting the circle. Found it was easier than hitting exactly the radius at the edge of the raw piece I was cutting the circle from.
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
Use a blade that's 1/4" or less. I've found Shopsmiths 3/16" premium blade with 10TPI to have a better tooth set, seems sharper and literally sails through 3/4" red oak. http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... blades.htm
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
wrmnfzy wrote:... I'm hoping I did something wrong and someone can set me straight if not it seems as if it was a waste of money, whatever I paid for it way back when.
I also had difficulty, having only two hands to set up the various moving parts simultaneously. But a "waste of money"? NO. A few bucks to show me I should make my own out of scraps that cuts perfect almost "no sanding" circles of any size (within reason).
A valuable lesson learned.
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
I tried the circle cutter again and following Chuck's advice for set up and someone else or a video I saw to cut out a notch so blade would start right aging circle and it worked fine. Still is a little awkward but I cut out 12 circles out of 1/2 inch plywood and it did fine. Thanks for all the assistance.
