I am having trouble getting the Mark 7 to do accurate routing and shapiing. I have a new shaper fence but I just can't seem the keep the stock "tracking" on the cut well.
I am playing around with some tongue and groove using a three blade tongue cutter and a slot cutter router bit. I occasionally get a perfect fit and it is impressive, but most of the time it will be centered and then go off track. I am not aware of me deviating the wood when I run it through. Any tips?
These are 1 inch thick boards that are run through the jointer and paralleled with the saw. I can get them to be square within .009 on all planes. I just don't get it?
Dick
Dick 1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
Are you maintaining contact with the table surface and the flat side? Any bowing/cupping of the parts?
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
Sounds to me like one of the mistakes I would make if not checking.
Check the tightness of the table height clamp, or in your case the sideways, clamp. Also check the carriage lock assembly. Sounds like either, or both, of the clamps could be lose.
There are always 5 clamps to be checked before sawing.
I assume the shaper fence is tightened down/
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
OK guys. Yes the stock is as perfect as a Shopsmith can make it , seriously I am amazed at the accuracy you can cut wood to. I can repeatedly get .010 tolerance without any effort at all and if I really work at it I can cut that in half. My small block Ford and Chevy engines don't need more than that.
It is very possible I am forgetting to lock something. A lot of "locks" to remember.
I assume, that since you are not ranting an raving that this is not difficult as it seems to be????
Thanks!
Dick
Dick 1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
You ARE locking the quill feed!!!!;) One of the '5'.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
One more thing, are you running vertically or horizontally?
I can see doing this 2 ways on an ER, and 3 on your Mk7.
1, ER set up hz mode, table hz, too. Table below the cutter, and work slid under the cutter on table. 1.5, base Hz. Table vert, work slid on fence under work.
2, ER set vert mode, table hz. (Typical drill-press mode.) Work slid beside cutter, resting on table.
3, Mk7 set up, headstock down, spindle coming up through table.
Don't use the shaper fence, use the rip fence, and cut on the other side. Use a featherboard mounted on the fence to hold down your work. I'd use my #2 (drill-press mode, see my first post) setup, too.
, seriously I am amazed at the accuracy you can cut wood to. I can repeatedly get .010 tolerance without any effort at all and if I really work at it I can cut that in half. My small block Ford and Chevy engines don't need more than that.
