Which bandsaw?
Moderator: admin
Which bandsaw?
I am looking at a couple bandsaw both about the same price. One has a cast iron table but nothing else. The other has an aluminum table and the fence with it and the dust port too. Overall condition is about the same, it's just I have never used a BS with an aluminum table. I have a 500. I just recently got a jointer and I am pretty excited. Thanks for any help.
Welcome to the forum.
Both the cast iron and aluminum table are good.
With the cast iron table, you can use the Shopsmith miter gauge (with a wood extension) as a fence. that's why it has the second miter slot at a right angle.
I have the aluminum table and bought the Kreg fence (which Shopsmith sells for use on the aluminum table in addition to its own band saw fence) but the Shopsmith band saw fence is reportedly good too.
Both table systems are fine. Personal choice. Cast iron is heavier so a little less vibration but it is smaller so less work surface support. The larger aluminum table actually gets in the way of raising the Mark 5/V to the drill press position, so you either have to remove the band saw from the Mark 5/V or buy special extension posts for the band saw that allow you to keep the band saw in place while raising the Mark 5/V. Or you can just tilt the aluminum table to 45 degrees and you will get clearance to raise the Mark 5/V to the drill press position.
The dust port can be added later as a Shopsmith upgrade kit or several members have improvised their own dust chutes. If you work indoors, the dust chute and a dust collector make a huge difference.
Al
Both the cast iron and aluminum table are good.
With the cast iron table, you can use the Shopsmith miter gauge (with a wood extension) as a fence. that's why it has the second miter slot at a right angle.
I have the aluminum table and bought the Kreg fence (which Shopsmith sells for use on the aluminum table in addition to its own band saw fence) but the Shopsmith band saw fence is reportedly good too.
Both table systems are fine. Personal choice. Cast iron is heavier so a little less vibration but it is smaller so less work surface support. The larger aluminum table actually gets in the way of raising the Mark 5/V to the drill press position, so you either have to remove the band saw from the Mark 5/V or buy special extension posts for the band saw that allow you to keep the band saw in place while raising the Mark 5/V. Or you can just tilt the aluminum table to 45 degrees and you will get clearance to raise the Mark 5/V to the drill press position.
The dust port can be added later as a Shopsmith upgrade kit or several members have improvised their own dust chutes. If you work indoors, the dust chute and a dust collector make a huge difference.
Al
-
JPG
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 35600
- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
The CI table gives you more mass and rigidity at the expense table footprint and future upgradability.
The aluminum one has the raising problem but is the one upgrades will apply to. One upgrade is from CI to aluminum.
You used to have two? So one of each now?:)
The aluminum one has the raising problem but is the one upgrades will apply to. One upgrade is from CI to aluminum.
You used to have two? So one of each now?:)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝
Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
[quote="JPG40504"]The CI table gives you more mass and rigidity at the expense table footprint and future upgradability.
The aluminum one has the raising problem but is the one upgrades will apply to. One upgrade is from CI to aluminum.]
Well, I have had two before...not at the same time. I am looking forward to doing a few thing with the SS. I recently had a new baby so I have a ton of picture frames I want to make. I was looking at old combo machines (TS and jointer) then realized, DOH! Why not just expand the machine I have.
The aluminum one has the raising problem but is the one upgrades will apply to. One upgrade is from CI to aluminum.]
Well, I have had two before...not at the same time. I am looking forward to doing a few thing with the SS. I recently had a new baby so I have a ton of picture frames I want to make. I was looking at old combo machines (TS and jointer) then realized, DOH! Why not just expand the machine I have.
I'm a fan of the aluminum table for several reasons. It is lighter and makes moving it easier, there is an expansion bar that goes into the side of the table - making holding longer wood steady a lot easier. The fence is very handy for re-sawing, the table can be used with the saw table and outrigged tables for a very large work table. Nick showed us examples of this expanded table (I think in the forum long ago) or it may be in the Sawdust sessions. http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm
If desired you can also buy a souped up fence system from Kreig that can be obtained through Shopsmith/
P.S. The aluminum table won't rust:D
Don't know where you live, but when living in Texas, the only piece of Shopsmith machinery that kept trying to rust was the steel table on my belt sander.
If desired you can also buy a souped up fence system from Kreig that can be obtained through Shopsmith/
P.S. The aluminum table won't rust:D
Don't know where you live, but when living in Texas, the only piece of Shopsmith machinery that kept trying to rust was the steel table on my belt sander.Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
-
"Wild Bad Bob"
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1065
- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:03 pm
- Location: Germantown, Wi
In the shop, the router and BS are the 2 worst tools for dust, I would go with the one I can add/or does have a DC system connection
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
So...I made a decision. I went with the aluminum table model. Why? I didn't have to pay for shipping. For $200 I picked up the BS with fence and extra 1/2 inch blade, conical disc and grinding jig with sand paper discs (not sure if I should have) a live center, pistol grip miter guage, power coupler, Dado set with arbor (didn't get the table insert like and idiot) and the accompanying manuals. I am pretty happy. Some have gotten better deals but I thought this was ok.
Thanks for the direction.
Thanks for the direction.