An orphan I found....

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ibskot
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Post by ibskot »

That poly v drive would have been a replacement? I didn't think they did that in 1954. Is that drive better then the Gilmer drive?
SS Mark V (1983 from Grandfather) upgraded to a 510, pieces to make a 500 mini, SS bandsaw, belt sander, broken scroll saw, and strip sander, Jet VS Mini Lathe, and tons of Lee Valley and vintage Stanley planes. Woodcraft slow speed grinder and a German made Tormek wannabe. Ridgid TS 3650 Table Saw, General 80-075LM Jointer.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

ibskot wrote:That poly v drive would have been a replacement? I didn't think they did that in 1954. Is that drive better then the Gilmer drive?
'They' didn't. Somebody else upgraded it after 1962. It can still be done($$$).

IMHO poly-v is an improvement, but the Gilmer works well as is.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
ibskot
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Post by ibskot »

&quot wrote:'They' didn't. Somebody else upgraded it after 1962. It can still be done($$$).

IMHO poly-v is an improvement, but the Gilmer works well as is.
Well, if they improved that, maybe they upgraded to a double bearing quill...need to check.
SS Mark V (1983 from Grandfather) upgraded to a 510, pieces to make a 500 mini, SS bandsaw, belt sander, broken scroll saw, and strip sander, Jet VS Mini Lathe, and tons of Lee Valley and vintage Stanley planes. Woodcraft slow speed grinder and a German made Tormek wannabe. Ridgid TS 3650 Table Saw, General 80-075LM Jointer.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

ibskot wrote:Well, if they improved that, maybe they upgraded to a double bearing quill...need to check.
Seriously doubt that.;)

Too many things done 'intentionally' to disguise its origin.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

The two-bearing quill buys you NOTHING (except a new quill) unless you are experiencing excessive runout!!
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ibskot
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Post by ibskot »

Well, if I go by the instructions that Nick Engler gave to determine 1 versus 2 bearing quill it has a 2 bearing quill. I am a bit suprised as I compared it to my 83 that my uncle gave me and it does too even though the serial number starts with 15 not 19. I HIGHLY doubt my uncle or grandfather (the one who actually used it) would have upgraded. FWIW, my grandfather's machine's quill spins great and free. The Frankensmith's does turn but not spin freely. Tomorrow I will check the one with the broken casting.
Confused and befuddled.
SS Mark V (1983 from Grandfather) upgraded to a 510, pieces to make a 500 mini, SS bandsaw, belt sander, broken scroll saw, and strip sander, Jet VS Mini Lathe, and tons of Lee Valley and vintage Stanley planes. Woodcraft slow speed grinder and a German made Tormek wannabe. Ridgid TS 3650 Table Saw, General 80-075LM Jointer.
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

dusty wrote:The two-bearing quill buys you NOTHING (except a new quill) unless you are experiencing excessive run out!!
Dusty, please explain, I was/am under the impression it was better and about a .001 run out compared to the single which had up to .005 run out.
I am not questioning you, just what I have read. I know you have many experiences with this.
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
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"Wild Bad Bob"
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Post by "Wild Bad Bob" »

ibskot wrote:Well, if I go by the instructions that Nick Engler gave to determine 1 versus 2 bearing quill it has a 2 bearing quill. I am a bit suprised as I compared it to my 83 that my uncle gave me and it does too even though the serial number starts with 15 not 19. I HIGHLY doubt my uncle or grandfather (the one who actually used it) would have upgraded. FWIW, my grandfather's machine's quill spins great and free. The Frankensmith's does turn but not spin freely. Tomorrow I will check the one with the broken casting.
Confused and befuddled.
Okay, with the belts on, nothing spins by hand, they just turn, please ex plane more please.
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
ibskot
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Post by ibskot »

Bob.... with the quill in my hand, out of the machine, is what I meant. Sorry for confusion.
SS Mark V (1983 from Grandfather) upgraded to a 510, pieces to make a 500 mini, SS bandsaw, belt sander, broken scroll saw, and strip sander, Jet VS Mini Lathe, and tons of Lee Valley and vintage Stanley planes. Woodcraft slow speed grinder and a German made Tormek wannabe. Ridgid TS 3650 Table Saw, General 80-075LM Jointer.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

ibskot wrote:Bob.... with the quill in my hand, out of the machine, is what I meant. Sorry for confusion.

A single bearing quill out of the machine will be grossly imbalanced due to lack of support of the long splined shaft. Held vertically it 'might' spin easier.

FWIW excessive spinning is a sign of dry/loose bearings.

A way to determine if a single bearing quill is to hold it splined shaft down. If the 'top hat' washer falls out, it is a single bearing. If the top hat is 'missing' , the splined shaft will wobble greatly.

The top hat washer is there to hold the shaft near center for insertion into the headstock.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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