ripping and crosscut blade settings
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- rjent
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2121
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
- Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico
ripping and crosscut blade settings
OK, I know that exposing the blade is dangerous. However, it does beg the question:
Do you get better cuts with the blade set high (table lowered for more blade exposure) or does it matter to just expose the blade enough to get a through cut
I get periodic tearouts on the trailing edge of the board and was just wondering if the blade position/entry was making any difference.
Thanks in advance!
Do you get better cuts with the blade set high (table lowered for more blade exposure) or does it matter to just expose the blade enough to get a through cut
I get periodic tearouts on the trailing edge of the board and was just wondering if the blade position/entry was making any difference.
Thanks in advance!
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings
Exposing more of the blade may reduce the tear out but even if it does I do not believe that is a reasonable exchange. With more blade exposed, there is a greater chance of unintentional contact.
Now, having said that, I must admit that I operate most of the time with far more blade exposed than is needed. I do that for the convenience of not having to readjust the depth of cut when I mount and dismount my sliding cross-cut table. The cross-cut table is 3/4" thick. Most of my work is on 3/4" thick work pieces. I expose about 2" of the blade so as to have 1/2" exposure with the cross-cut sled.
Ripping is another matter because the cross-cut sled is never involved.
Whatever you do, it can be hazardous. Keep your wit about you and do not work with distractions in the shop!
Now, having said that, I must admit that I operate most of the time with far more blade exposed than is needed. I do that for the convenience of not having to readjust the depth of cut when I mount and dismount my sliding cross-cut table. The cross-cut table is 3/4" thick. Most of my work is on 3/4" thick work pieces. I expose about 2" of the blade so as to have 1/2" exposure with the cross-cut sled.
Ripping is another matter because the cross-cut sled is never involved.
Whatever you do, it can be hazardous. Keep your wit about you and do not work with distractions in the shop!
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------rjent wrote:OK, I know that exposing the blade is dangerous. However, it does beg the question:
Do you get better cuts with the blade set high (table lowered for more blade exposure) or does it matter to just expose the blade enough to get a through cut
I get periodic tearouts on the trailing edge of the board and was just wondering if the blade position/entry was making any difference.
Thanks in advance!
Sounds like you are speaking of cross cutting. If so, just slow down your cut. Move the board slower through the end of the cut. Let the saw cut off most of the splinters.
---
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- edflorence
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 689
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 8:14 pm
- Location: Idaho Panhandle
Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings
charlese wrote: ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Move the board slower through the end of the cut. Let the saw cut off most of the splinters.
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and perhaps try cross-cutting in two cuts instead of one...that is, cut within an eighth or so of the line on the first cut and then finish with a second cut right to the line moving, as noted, slowly, especially towards the end of the cut.
Ed
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Idaho Panhandle
Mark 5 of various vintages, Mini with reversing motor, bs, dc3300, jointer, increaser, decreaser
Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings
A wood backer board attached to the miter and extending beyond the cut will serve as a backer and prevent any tear out.
Gale's Law: The bigger the woodworking project, the less the mistakes show in any photo taken far enough away to show the entire project!
Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------algale wrote:A wood backer board attached to the miter and extending beyond the cut will serve as a backer and prevent any tear out.
That's the best way!
-------------------------------
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings
algale is correct that one of the best ways to prevent blowout is a backer board and a zero clearance insert (kind of like a backer board for the bottom).
When setting blade height, the blade should be above the wood but only to the bottom of the gullets between the teeth. At least, that is the advice I keep seeing on the subject and that is what I do.
Forrest
When setting blade height, the blade should be above the wood but only to the bottom of the gullets between the teeth. At least, that is the advice I keep seeing on the subject and that is what I do.
Forrest
- rjent
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 2121
- Joined: Fri Mar 14, 2014 3:00 pm
- Location: Hot Springs, New Mexico
Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings
Wow, good info guys. Thanks!
I will try all of the above.
Dusty, is there a thread pertaining to your "sled" that you may have shared?
All of you, again, thanks!
BTW, yes Charlese, cross cutting is where the problem always is. Rips are like glass!
I will try all of the above.
Dusty, is there a thread pertaining to your "sled" that you may have shared?
All of you, again, thanks!
BTW, yes Charlese, cross cutting is where the problem always is. Rips are like glass!
Dick
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
1965 Mark VII S/N 407684
1951 10 ER S/N ER 44570 -- Reborn 9/16/14
1950 10 ER S/N ER 33479 Reborn July 2016
1950 10 ER S/N ER 39671
1951 jigsaw X 2
1951 !0 ER #3 in rebuild
500, Jointer, Bsaw, Bsander, Planer
2014 Mark 7 W/Lift assist - 14 4" Jointer - DC3300
And a plethora of small stuff .....
"The trouble with quotes on the Internet is that you can never know if they are genuine." - Benjamin Franklin
- dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings
rjent: yes, there are some. I'll try to locate them and post a link.
One of the more important features of a sled is its' adjust ability. If the fence is not square to the blade when you are using it, the sled is about useless. For that purpose, I find this post to be very informative.
http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/5-cuts-t ... -cut-sled/
I thought I had done a blow-by-blow on the building of a cross-cut sled but I must not have. I don't even have good photos of the sled that I use all the time. This is the best I have. It is built entirely of 1/2" baltic birch plywood except for the runners and this sled uses runners purchased from Shopsmith. Making the sled using wooden runners would be just as good.
One of the more important features of a sled is its' adjust ability. If the fence is not square to the blade when you are using it, the sled is about useless. For that purpose, I find this post to be very informative.
http://wnwoodworkingschool.com/5-cuts-t ... -cut-sled/
I thought I had done a blow-by-blow on the building of a cross-cut sled but I must not have. I don't even have good photos of the sled that I use all the time. This is the best I have. It is built entirely of 1/2" baltic birch plywood except for the runners and this sled uses runners purchased from Shopsmith. Making the sled using wooden runners would be just as good.
- Attachments
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- Crosscut Sled (New) 201 (Custom).jpg (28.88 KiB) Viewed 7203 times
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Re: ripping and crosscut blade settings
Not as nice as Dusty's, but FWW does have some articles on making one. You might start here:
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/390 ... sscut-sled
Search on "crosscut sle" for more. Nope, I didn't forget the "d" at the end. For some reason I get better search results this way
Forrest
http://www.finewoodworking.com/item/390 ... sscut-sled
Search on "crosscut sle" for more. Nope, I didn't forget the "d" at the end. For some reason I get better search results this way
Forrest