motor shaft stops turning when speed control is on N

[JPG]

The motor is a good start and the floating sheave most likely caused the quill shaft to stop turning at higher speeds.

The control sheave (internal) likely needs the same cleanup/lubricating treatment. A sticking floating sheave is bad enough, but a sticking control sheave causes damage to other parts.

So should I replace that belt too?

Please be more specific re " I oiled the two parts I saw in one of Jacob Anderson's videos. "

It is not likely the 'other' belt is causing this(unless it is a loose Gilmer belt). Which brings us to the question, which model are you working on?

Is it Green/silver?(only original paint counts)

Does the vent plate say Magna Engineering made it?(ditto re original)

I think we need to back up and attack this one area at a time.

And we really need some pix to help us zero in.

Are you aware of the idler shaft eccentric adjustment?(short belt tension adjustment.)

Is it possible when replacing the motor belt the eccentric was left unadjusted?

[beeg]

I used electrical tape to mend the wires going to the on/off switch.

How old is your Mark5?(serial#) It wood be better to replace that cord, just buy 14GA 3 WIRE heavy duty extension cord and cut off the female end. Cut off the old wires 6 inches long so ya can tell what color goes when and replace one at a time. Here's a couple PDF's that may help ya.

how to do a high speed adjustment.PDF

(382.25 KiB) Downloaded 395 times

replacing the markv power cord.PDF

(402.05 KiB) Downloaded 356 times

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[wa2crk]

Liz
The "tumbling" sound that you hear may be caused by a small bearing in the control sheave (the one that moves with the speed control ) going bad. This bearing will go bad from a lack of oiling by the previous owner.
I have not used Jacob's tutorials or any of his services but I have never heard anything but good about his services. So stick with him.
I am assuming that you got your machine used and if so, I will go with my original thoughts that you do a complete tear down and check out just to get some kind of a baseline for the future.
Bill V

[Liz]

I have a SS 510-R built in 1984. I oiled the electric motor shaft (under the spring) and I oiled the shaft on the control sheave where the little hole is.
I will check the tension on the other belt.
Replacing the bearings in the control sheave....does that require a particular expertise?
Should I take my motor to an electric shop to have it worked on?
Should I replace the on/off switch?
I really appreciate the ideas/suggestions.

[Liz]

Thanks Bob for the pdfs

[JPG]

I have a SS 510-R built in 1984. I oiled the electric motor shaft (under the spring) and I oiled the shaft on the control sheave where the little hole is.
I will check the tension on the other belt.
Replacing the bearings in the control sheave....does that require a particular expertise?
Should I take my motor to an electric shop to have it worked on?
Should I replace the on/off switch?
I really appreciate the ideas/suggestions.

So many questions, so few pix. Makes answering a crap shoot. Also requires assumptions that may create risk.

Right now the source of the 'tumbling tennis shoes' is undetermined.

[wa2crk]

Hey Liz
Are you still with us????
Bill V