Guardless bevel cuts?

[algale]

Without something to prevent the uphill cutoff from falling into the blade and being kicked back at the operator, I would not attempt a bevel rip cut with the table tilted.

Properly adjusted (in line) with the blade, the upper saw guard's riving knife should prevent that kind of kickback on a titled bevel rip cut as will the stand-alone riving knife Shopsmith sells for non-through cuts.

The question I have is why wouldn't the 510 upper saw guard work in conjunction with the table tilted 45 degrees?

If the plastic shield is too floppy, it can be put in the "up" position so it is out of the way, but at least the riving knife portion of the upper saw guard is still there to prevent the uphill cut off from kicking back.

The other option on the Shopsmith, is to build a bevel cutting jig that let's you keep the table flat. I've never found that necessary and despite feeling "weird" the first time I made a cut on a tilted table, I actually don't mind it at all now. In fact, I like how gravity helps keep the board in contact with the rip fence.

[edflorence]

Without something to prevent the uphill cutoff from falling into the blade and being kicked back at the operator, I would not attempt a bevel rip cut with the table tilted.

Nick solved that issue with his "anti-gravity" jig...It does a fine job of keeping the uphill cut-off from dropping back on to the back of the blade. I am with you, Algale, x-cut bevels with table tilted can be done safely.

[dusty]

Yup, they sure can be done safely.

If you have tried it and and got away with it, you believe that. If you have attempted it and met with problems, you might not believe.

When small pieces go flying, I usually do not get excited but when the piece that gets away from you is a bit larger and goes airborne, you need to hide.

Even with a riving knife.

[BuckeyeDennis]

When I have to make a questionable cut, I stand at the end of the machine and reach across the fence, with a push stick or whatever. At least ever since I made a dumb newbie mistake and had a roughly 1/2 cubic inch cutoff fired into my temple with enough force to draw blood. I was, at least, wearing safety goggles.

[rjent]

When I have to make a questionable cut, I stand at the end of the machine and reach across the fence, with a push stick or whatever. At least ever since I made a dumb newbie mistake and had a roughly 1/2 cubic inch cutoff fired into my temple with enough force to draw blood. I was, at least, wearing safety goggles.

I am soooo glad you said that. I did that and put a egg on my forehead the first week I owned the Mark 7. It was actually was a good lesson and I have never come close since.......

I tried a tilted table cut .... once ....

[edflorence]

All good experiences to share and to learn from...and good to remember that any cut, whether a cross-cut bevel on the tilted table or a simple level rip, to be really safe requires the cut-off to be controlled, the operator to stand outside the kickback zone, the guard to be in place whenever possible and the kerf to be held open by riving knife, splitter or even a simple wedge. Satisfy those requirements and the Shopsmith will prove up to the task of cross cut bevels.

[stephen_a._draper]

I do this cut quite often on a model 500; however I ALWAYS use the upper saw guard. These are the steps:

1. Raise the table to its maximum height.
2. Move the table carriage away from the saw blade.
3. Move the upper saw guard all the way to the right without removing it.
4. Tilt the table to 45 degrees.
5. Move the table carriage back over the blade.
6. Advance the quill and lower the table while centering the blade in the table slot.
7. Move the upper guard back to the left to the proper position.

[rutpoule]

The problem I ran into is when I lower the table. I could only get the blade to extend about 1/2" through the table when it's tilted at a full 45 and then the bottom of the table is hitting the top of the lower blade guard.

[davebodner]

The bottom saw guard might be interfering. Try adjusting it in or out.