Lathe screw center

[Ohgary]

I found I had a brand new lathe screw center still in the package. I tried a quick project but was unsuccessful. So I need some advice. It looks like I have to put in a pretty healthy pilot hole to accept the screw. Also there is a set screw that appears to lock the screw but I couldn't tell if it was gonna get tight and was afraid I might damage something. PTWWFE didn't have much detail on the screw center and the Model 500 owner's manual was also not instructive. I see frequent references to the screw center but not much detail on using it.

So here I am again.

[Bruce]

I found I had a brand new lathe screw center still in the package. I tried a quick project but was unsuccessful. So I need some advice. It looks like I have to put in a pretty healthy pilot hole to accept the screw. Also there is a set screw that appears to lock the screw but I couldn't tell if it was gonna get tight and was afraid I might damage something. PTWWFE didn't have much detail on the screw center and the Model 500 owner's manual was also not instructive. I see frequent references to the screw center but not much detail on using it.

So here I am again.

Can you post a photo?

[reible]

This is the shopsmith screw center I got way back when(1976ish). It came with the wood screw pictured. I think it is either a #12 or #14 but I did not check to make sure.

I store mine with the screw inserted and the set screw tighten lightly to hold it in place.

IMG_0112sc.jpg (88.73 KiB) Viewed 9013 times

IMG_0113sc.jpg (91.14 KiB) Viewed 9013 times

IMG_0114sc.jpg (85.03 KiB) Viewed 9013 times

Yes you will need a pilot hole and remember this is basically a face plate so it is used primarily for smaller face plate work. The screw can be turned in with a screw driver of the correct size until it is tight then the setscrew can be used to lock it. You might want to give it a little extra turn once it is mount and before you turn on the lathe to make sure it is snug.

You might be able to lock the screw in place and then thread it in but I personally don't trust that as much as using a screw driver. I find it easier to make sure the screw is going in straight that way but so long as you have the pilot hole is should work either way.

As always use the dead/live center if you can to stabilize things when starting out and then if you have to take it away when things are balanced so you do the face. It should also be obvious but this should not be used in reverse.

Ed

[JPG]

IIRC the screw is a #14 flat head wood screw.

Yes a pilot hole is required(the harder the wood, the larger the hole).

That set screw needs to be tight. I doubt you could damage anything with a 'normal' allen wrench.

The screw is replacable so different lengths could be used. Finding the #14 screws may be an issue.

[Bruce]

My Nova G3 chuck came with a wormwood screw. Is that used in the same way? I know it's probably larger. I haven't used mine yet. It will have to wait for my current project to be completed.

[JPG]

My Nova G3 chuck came with a wormwood screw. Is that used in the same way? I know it's probably larger. I haven't used mine yet. It will have to wait for my current project to be completed.

I would think the wormwood screw was intended to be used with large od turnings(bowls) and therefor requires a bigger 'bite'.

The SS screw arbor is more suited to smaller turnings and quite effective with spindles, but is not limited to spindles. Think 'rosettes'.


P.S. I just read Reible's post. I have not had good luck tightening the set screw onto the threaded part of the center screw. The unthreaded shank of the screw is gripped better by the set screw. That is why I suggested different screw lengths. Never use a screw driver. I simply screw the arbor by hand onto(into) the workpiece.

[reible]

I'm sorry if there was any confusing but I did not say nor did I imply that the setscrew would be tightened on to any thing other then the shank portion of the screw.

I have used this and when mounting this as any other face plate you need to make sure the end you mount to is both flat and reasonably square. It is also importation that the face plate be tight to the work piece. How ever that works best for you then use it that way. I just wanted to suggest that I have found I like to do the initial tightening using a screw driver in the screw head inside the screw center. As I mentioned when I finish mounting the work piece I then tighten the set screw. After mounting on the shopsmith I then see if I can tighten any more by rotating the work piece.

Most other lathes have a lock to keep the shaft from turning so screwing the screw centers into to a work piece requires that you only have to rotate the work piece onto the screw. On a shopsmith you need to hold the shaft and turn the workpiece at the same time..... so I found the screw driver to start things was easier for me.

The other point is that this is intended for parts that are too small to be mounted on a regular face plate or not long enough to be used between centers. Typical uses would be for drawer pulls and finials. For spindles it would be best to use conventional means.

Yes the Nova chuck comes with a screw center, a much larger screw size then the shopsmith version. For that I do mount the screw first then turn the work piece on. That works well because the parts are larger and easier to work with, hold the chuck with one hand and the work piece with the other is still not ideal but better.

If you have one of these please do give it a try. I'd like to hear some feed back from people who have used this as to how they used it and what results they have experienced. If you have had a problem what problem did you have and were you able to solve it. Real world time here.

Ed

[jsburger]

The last time I used mine was for turning a plug for 10ER way tubes and supporting those tubes for cleaning. Like you I use a screw driver and then check tight after mounting.

[JPG]

Ed, I'se sorry also. I totally misconstrued what you were saying. It really did not make sense then - does now.

I do agree re the spindle comment, but have used it when a spur center was not an option.

Square, tight-flush for sure!!!