guvnuh4,
I don't turn much so I didn't even think of that. But it is just stuck on with two sided tape. Easy removal!.
Recalibration would become the issue if someone was doing this for real. To be useful, it would have to be calibrated each time you could the table off for any reason.
New ShopSmith 530
Moderator: admin
simple upgrades
Hard anodize the aluminum castings
Powder coat the stamped steel
Provide corrosion protection on the inside of bench and way tubes (probably zinc plating or galvanizing)
Plate steel parts like the tube lock bars and base arm pin
Plate outside of way tubes with Titanium nitride
Modify the castings so the bench and way tubes go through - the legs can slide on the tubes the same way the carriage and headstock do (to shorten or extend the wheelbase).
Use a base arm pin on both ends to enable the way tubes to raise the headstock with the quill pointing up
Make the casting on the ends of the way tubes so that when it is unlocked from the bench assembly it can be fixed to something else (kind of like a magnetic drill press)
Headstock and Carriage lock handles with preset torque setting to avoid overtorquing (may need to redesign the locks to work with constant torque)
Flute or rib the largest surface on the steel leg stampings
Urethane casters (keep the retractable design)
precision tapered roller bearings in the quill (maybe they are, not sure)
These suggestions maintain backward compatibility and they are far more cost effective to be implemented in mass production than for the owner to upgrade himself. The plating/coating methods would be an extravagant embellishment done after purchase, but could be done at a minimal cost in the production process.
Another minor detail that is easy/cheap for the owner to upgrade but could go into production:
elastomeric butyl vibration dampening on the inside of steel legs (for acoustic reasons). It seems trivial, but just slide your Mark V sideways and you'll know why.
Powder coat the stamped steel
Provide corrosion protection on the inside of bench and way tubes (probably zinc plating or galvanizing)
Plate steel parts like the tube lock bars and base arm pin
Plate outside of way tubes with Titanium nitride
Modify the castings so the bench and way tubes go through - the legs can slide on the tubes the same way the carriage and headstock do (to shorten or extend the wheelbase).
Use a base arm pin on both ends to enable the way tubes to raise the headstock with the quill pointing up
Make the casting on the ends of the way tubes so that when it is unlocked from the bench assembly it can be fixed to something else (kind of like a magnetic drill press)
Headstock and Carriage lock handles with preset torque setting to avoid overtorquing (may need to redesign the locks to work with constant torque)
Flute or rib the largest surface on the steel leg stampings
Urethane casters (keep the retractable design)
precision tapered roller bearings in the quill (maybe they are, not sure)
These suggestions maintain backward compatibility and they are far more cost effective to be implemented in mass production than for the owner to upgrade himself. The plating/coating methods would be an extravagant embellishment done after purchase, but could be done at a minimal cost in the production process.
Another minor detail that is easy/cheap for the owner to upgrade but could go into production:
elastomeric butyl vibration dampening on the inside of steel legs (for acoustic reasons). It seems trivial, but just slide your Mark V sideways and you'll know why.
Laser sights. For all alignments. Perhaps three lasers and multiple bracket points. Move the lasers where you need them at that moment. When you measure and true everything you have to, align the laser brackets at the same time. Not every shop floor is level or even.
Add reversing feature to speed reducer. Used to use the drill press to tap holes. Power up at slowest speed, shut it off, lower the chuck to tap the hole and stop the slow moving chuck by hand (not the greatest but a - soft stop hand brake - isn't a bad idea). Then switch to reverse and back out of the tapped hole.
Push-in, pull-out height adjuster. Crank the table to the desired height and tighten the lock-down wing nut. The crank is pushed in maybe 1/4" when tight. When you loosen the lock-down nut, nothing happens. The crank must be pulled out to release the table giving you more control. I see a see-saw bar with a pin on both ends (looks like an auto thermostat gasket) and goes over the crank shaft. Behind is a circular series of holes that only one pin can go into at a time. If one won't the other will. Pulling out the crank removes the locked pin from the hole it's in.
Right and left side extension tables attached to main table with crank to extend.
Padded bumpers for the leg bottoms (I am looking for something for this).
Of course it would have the current lift-assist standard.
Lift-and-lock in feed and out feed tables attached to the main table. Raise up and lock in place when needed then lift and lower when not in use.
Adapter for sawdust collection for 1 1/4" hoses. I have one coming in and will modify it for efficiency. For those weekend warrior saw-dusters.
That's all I have for now.
All listings in bold type are the sole property of Pascalore Industries. Any similarity to real ideas is purely a big mistake.
P.
Add reversing feature to speed reducer. Used to use the drill press to tap holes. Power up at slowest speed, shut it off, lower the chuck to tap the hole and stop the slow moving chuck by hand (not the greatest but a - soft stop hand brake - isn't a bad idea). Then switch to reverse and back out of the tapped hole.
Push-in, pull-out height adjuster. Crank the table to the desired height and tighten the lock-down wing nut. The crank is pushed in maybe 1/4" when tight. When you loosen the lock-down nut, nothing happens. The crank must be pulled out to release the table giving you more control. I see a see-saw bar with a pin on both ends (looks like an auto thermostat gasket) and goes over the crank shaft. Behind is a circular series of holes that only one pin can go into at a time. If one won't the other will. Pulling out the crank removes the locked pin from the hole it's in.
Right and left side extension tables attached to main table with crank to extend.
Padded bumpers for the leg bottoms (I am looking for something for this).
Of course it would have the current lift-assist standard.
Lift-and-lock in feed and out feed tables attached to the main table. Raise up and lock in place when needed then lift and lower when not in use.
Adapter for sawdust collection for 1 1/4" hoses. I have one coming in and will modify it for efficiency. For those weekend warrior saw-dusters.
That's all I have for now.
All listings in bold type are the sole property of Pascalore Industries. Any similarity to real ideas is purely a big mistake.
P.
New Shopsmith 530
I believe the most useful upgrade, for a new Shopsmith 530, would be the ability to move the saw blade up or down while the table remains stationary.
Jim in Arizona
Jim in Arizona
I've read through all of the wishes, the only additional item I can think of right now is an hour meter. That would show total hours and a resetable hours for maint.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 5834
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
jb41339 wrote:I believe the most useful upgrade, for a new Shopsmith 530, would be the ability to move the saw blade up or down while the table remains stationary.
Jim in Arizona
Jim
As funny as it sounds I think this could be done fairly easy. Move the support legs from the trunnions and mount on the trunnions an arbor assembly that holds the blade and is powered from the Headstock. Since the trunnions would hold the arbor assembly instead of the table the blade would be tilted instead of the table.
My guess the development cost wouldn't be all that high, the execution cost would be mimimal and it would eliminate the two biggest complaints made against the Shopsmith. The inability to used a fixed height infeed/outfeed table and the need to tilt the table to cut a bevel.
I will bet Shopsmith has spent tons more money developing other things and none of them carried the potential for return this idea has.
I would buy the upgrade in a New York minute if it cost less than half what a contractor saw sold at HD or Lowes presently costs and I believe both the R&D and manufacture costs should be far below that leaving a nice profit for SS.
Ed
Ed in Tampa wrote:Jim
As funny as it sounds I think this could be done fairly easy. Move the support legs from the trunnions and mount on the trunnions an arbor assembly that holds the blade and is powered from the Headstock. Since the trunnions would hold the arbor assembly instead of the table the blade would be tilted instead of the table.
My guess the development cost wouldn't be all that high, the execution cost would be mimimal and it would eliminate the two biggest complaints made against the Shopsmith. The inability to used a fixed height infeed/outfeed table and the need to tilt the table to cut a bevel.
I will bet Shopsmith has spent tons more money developing other things and none of them carried the potential for return this idea has.
I would buy the upgrade in a New York minute if it cost less than half what a contractor saw sold at HD or Lowes presently costs and I believe both the R&D and manufacture costs should be far below that leaving a nice profit for SS.
Ed
Then it wouldn't be a ShopSmith?:D
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
Hi Ed! Sorry! I read through the above quote several times and can't picture it. I would like to understand! Sorry I'm so thick!Ed in Tampa wrote:Jim
As funny as it sounds I think this could be done fairly easy. Move the support legs from the trunnions and mount on the trunnions an arbor assembly that holds the blade and is powered from the Headstock. Since the trunnions would hold the arbor assembly instead of the table the blade would be tilted instead of the table.
Maybe you or someone else could sketch this idea out so we could see a picture of it.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA