VEVOR KP2 -3/4 chuck

[ddarbylewis]

KP2 VEVOR chuck

This chuck is one of the few that fit on my, new to me, mark 5.
The chuck seems well made but if I try cutting the end of the blank, so the face of a bowl, then it vibrates and kicks the piece out of the chuck.

I've experimented with different size tenons, different angles for the dovetail, and nothing makes a difference.
Whenever I try and cut the end of a piece it will kick.

I've used a spindle to threaded adapter to fit the chuck, it is an extension made for the shopsmith, that converts it to a one inch 8tpi.

I contacted the makers and they have suggested that the chuck is on too long of an extension to be stable. That sounds a bit like an excuse since the extension they sell with the chuck is of the same length.

I am wondering if anyone else has experience with this make?

Additionally if anyone could recommend any chucks I can get in the UK that they know work well with the Shopsmith mark 5 I'd love to hear it.

[DLB]

For clarity, does this mean you are using two adapters to get from SS 5/8" to Vevor M33 x 3.5? Or perhaps I'm seeing a different version of Vevor chuck. (In some cases Nova does this, for example a G3 insert version and a G3 1" X 8 version, thus two different adapters exist for putting a G3 on a SS.)

Do you have a dial indicator so that you could measure total runout, both radially and axially? This seems to be what the supplier is suggesting is the problem. Excessive runout can be caused by the machine, chuck, or any adapter.

Older Shopsmith machines came with a single bearing quill, newer machines with a two bearing quill. The two bearing quill can be retrofit into all but the oldest machines. I prefer the two bearing quill for minimum runout, some argue that it is more susceptible to damage by a catch while turning.

I'm a novice turner so won't make a brand recommendation. I am satisfied with the Teknatool / Nova offerings, both SuperNova and G3. I'd stay away from anything that requires two adapters in a market where it is possible to do so. My preference would be to get the adapter and chuck from the same company. The insert style places the chuck nearer to the machine, I believe this to be inherently better from a runout perspective, but a negligible improvement if everything is working as it should.

- David

[RFGuy]

I don't know much about Vevor, but it says the Vevor KP2 is a metal lathe chuck. Are you sure it can be used for woodworking applications? Keep in mind it is a very inexpensive lathe chuck and manufactured in China so that combination might be a problem. One thing to keep in mind with all lathe chucks is they are often numbered for the jaws to mate with the chuck base. Have you verified that 1 mates to 1, 2 to 2 and so on for the chuck jaws? Get them out of order and not matching their corresponding mate will throw off concentricity which would cause vibration.

https://www.vevor.com/lathe-chuck-c_101 ... o_OvXEA1fs

[RFGuy]

Also, there was a previous post about a Vevor chuck, but I don't know if it was the same model that you have. They also reported a "wobble" with it. See link below:

viewtopic.php?p=298426#p298426

[SteveMaryland]

I recently bought a VEVOR toaster oven. Apparently VEVOR is a holding company that contracts with numerous Chinese manufacturers to make just about everything, in China.

Their branding says "tough tools, half price". Curiously, fireproof gloves were included with the oven. Two clues as to what happened next.

Oven was "bad out of the box". Convection fan runs all the time and will not shut off. Must pull the plug to shutoff the fan. And the oven gets really hot - hotter than other toaster ovens I have had. Now I know what the fireproof gloves were for.

Good luck getting repair parts or refund from VEVOR for product defects.

[RFGuy]

Steve,

Thanks for sharing and that's good to know about Vevor. I am not trying to make light of what happened to you or what the OP is experiencing, but that is kind of funny. Including the fire proof gloves, that is, just in case. There are many good products made in China, but when they are very lost cost you have to be very careful on what you actually get unfortunately - usually a tell-tale symptom. It reminds me of that Christmas tree angel that my wife had for our tree back in the 1990's. It was UL listed and everything, but probably not really and likely made in China. It didn't take long before the lights started to melt the nearby plastic presenting a fire hazard. Always caveat emptor (buyer beware)...

[roy_okc]

When I was turning on my Shopsmith, I also used a 5/8" shaft to 1" x 8 TPI adapter into Penn State Ind chuck. That worked fine for spindle work. But I noticed a random 'harmonic' vibration when working on a hollow form or two, maybe also on a bowl or two. I believe this was due to a small amount of play in the threads. I was able to substantially reduce the frequency of occurrence and amount of vibration with many turns of teflon plumbing tape wrapped on the adapter threads, but never completely got rid of it. I also bought and installed a two-bearing quill, but that didn't help at all.

[DLB]

When I was turning on my Shopsmith, I also used a 5/8" shaft to 1" x 8 TPI adapter into Penn State Ind chuck. That worked fine for spindle work. But I noticed a random 'harmonic' vibration when working on a hollow form or two, maybe also on a bowl or two. I believe this was due to a small amount of play in the threads. I was able to substantially reduce the frequency of occurrence and amount of vibration with many turns of teflon plumbing tape wrapped on the adapter threads, but never completely got rid of it. I also bought and installed a two-bearing quill, but that didn't help at all.

I'm curious to know if this PSI chuck has a setscrew for locking the chuck to the threads.(?) And if the vibration was present when the setscrew was tightened. The insert style Novas I'm familiar with have a setscrew to lock the insert in place, but I believe they are marketed as "reversible" and think that the setscrew is there for that primary purpose, keeping the chuck from unthreading from the insert. I don't know how common this feature is in turning.

- David

[roy_okc]

When I was turning on my Shopsmith, I also used a 5/8" shaft to 1" x 8 TPI adapter into Penn State Ind chuck. That worked fine for spindle work. But I noticed a random 'harmonic' vibration when working on a hollow form or two, maybe also on a bowl or two. I believe this was due to a small amount of play in the threads. I was able to substantially reduce the frequency of occurrence and amount of vibration with many turns of teflon plumbing tape wrapped on the adapter threads, but never completely got rid of it. I also bought and installed a two-bearing quill, but that didn't help at all.

I'm curious to know if this PSI chuck has a setscrew for locking the chuck to the threads.(?) And if the vibration was present when the setscrew was tightened. The insert style Novas I'm familiar with have a setscrew to lock the insert in place, but I believe they are marketed as "reversible" and think that the setscrew is there for that primary purpose, keeping the chuck from unthreading from the insert. I don't know how common this feature is in turning.

- David

David, I don’t believe there is a set screw on the PSI chuck or i surely would have tightened it.