This was posted on the Facebook Shopsmith Owners Group, I thought it might be of interest to members here.
Daniel Percell
Rising Star · December 13 at 2:30 PM
Ok so I didn’t want to spend $180 rite now on a two bearing quill so my solution (and not saying it is totally correct way to do it) I removed the single bearing quill that I was having a lot of wobble with when using it as a lathe. I installed a needle bearing just past the washer ring in the inside of the quill that pressed into the external piece of the quill. Then the shaft to the quill fit exactly inside the needle bearings. It is nice and tight now. Fixed and running smooth for a$12 bearing and some shipping. Back to lathe work now!!!!
Doug Smith
Sounds like a good solution. I hope it proves durable and reliable. How did you pre-load the bearing (I'm assuming it is a tapered roller?)
Daniel Percell
Didn’t preload. Was a exact fit to the outside and the inside needle rollers ride on the shaft that I smoothed out. I want one with a race but couldn’t find the rite one. Will continue looking but will work for now. I edited the post to say needle bearing. Oops! My bad!
Doug Smith
I understand. Easy mistake to make.
Ron Dyck
Sounds like a great idea. Could you post pictures and a part number for the bearing. I'm sure that others would like to try this.
Daniel Percell
Pics I can’t but can draw what I did.
Daniel Percell
Bearing is IKO bearing. Br122016 and you must press it into the outer part of the quill. Here is a pic of what I did and it helped a ton. Not saying totally the only way but it is working and serviceable
48408042_10205862692244401_9096962885816418304_n.jpg (34.94 KiB) Viewed 6207 times
Ron Dyck
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10ER #23430, 10ER #84609, 10ER #94987,two SS A-34 jigsaws for 10ER.
1959 Mark 5 #356595 Greenie, SS Magna Jointer, SS planer, SS bandsaw, SS scroll saw (gray), DC3300,
Understanding needle roller bearing from a u-joint application perspective I would see if I could also Press in a 1 1/4 x 3/4 rubber seal to help keep external contaminants from getting in the bearing from the spline side of the shaft
They tend to run a bit dirty and the metal sling ring was used try and keep it from migrating originally. Might could do both with a tiny gap between
Nice approach. I will have to consider trying this.
Cool idea, I couldn't find the original post, or author, but there are cheap chinese ones online, so I will get one, see if it fits at all, and if it does I can buy a real one. I checked my shaft OD and outer shell ID and it seems to be a perfect match. Could be a nice $10 mod!
1983 Mark V 500 (230V/50Hz AU) S/N SS-115073
11" Bandsaw (incoming)
Brisbane, Australia
You know what, I've read that so many times and never tired it. I might try it this time. I wonder if I could hit the quill with my head gut on the backend as well to warm it up.
1983 Mark V 500 (230V/50Hz AU) S/N SS-115073
11" Bandsaw (incoming)
Brisbane, Australia