planning joints
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wgander
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planning joints
How do you remember to plan for joints when drawing plans and cutting to length?
I got so involved with the dimensions of my project that I cut the pieces to length without allowing for mortise and tenon or lap joints, and had to rely on long screws for holding butt jointed ends together.
The result was OK for a garden project that doesn't require any strength but this isn't the first time I've overlooked planning for the joint when cutting to length.
I got so involved with the dimensions of my project that I cut the pieces to length without allowing for mortise and tenon or lap joints, and had to rely on long screws for holding butt jointed ends together.
The result was OK for a garden project that doesn't require any strength but this isn't the first time I've overlooked planning for the joint when cutting to length.
- a1gutterman
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My wallet reminds me, at least after the first time.wgander wrote:How do you remember to plan for joints when drawing plans and cutting to length?
I got so involved with the dimensions of my project that I cut the pieces to length without allowing for mortise and tenon or lap joints, and had to rely on long screws for holding butt jointed ends together.
The result was OK for a garden project that doesn't require any strength but this isn't the first time I've overlooked planning for the joint when cutting to length.
Tim
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Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
- JPG
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Simple! You just gotta doit! It IS part of the planning/drawing process. After you have determined what dimensions the project is to be, REMEMBER to add the step of determining how it is to be joined and what shape and dimensions will result in those dimensions.wgander wrote:How do you remember to plan for joints when drawing plans and cutting to length?
I got so involved with the dimensions of my project that I cut the pieces to length without allowing for mortise and tenon or lap joints, and had to rely on long screws for holding butt jointed ends together.
The result was OK for a garden project that doesn't require any strength but this isn't the first time I've overlooked planning for the joint when cutting to length.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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Any time two pieces of wood are attached together you have a joint. Include details of the joint in your sketches. The existence of the detail should resolve the problem.wgander wrote:How do you remember to plan for joints when drawing plans and cutting to length?
I got so involved with the dimensions of my project that I cut the pieces to length without allowing for mortise and tenon or lap joints, and had to rely on long screws for holding butt jointed ends together.
The result was OK for a garden project that doesn't require any strength but this isn't the first time I've overlooked planning for the joint when cutting to length.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
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Hi,
Like Dusty said it is a good idea to include the joint plans at the start of your project. I'm in the process of sketching up a design and while I haven't worked out the actual depth of a rabbet I have it drawn and the dimension lines in place. Like wise the other dimension of the stock can not be determined now, but I have the dimension lines in place and the dimensions of the piece minus the rabbets is known and shown.
Of course sometimes it becomes a project in it self to recover from an error... as you found solution by using screws this time you may want to think about other ways you can deal with situations like this. One that comes to mind is the use of a loose tenon. Other ways might have been pocket screws, dowels, or maybe even biscuits or a combination of these.
The project you picked was a good choice, that is where you want to do your learning and learning how to recover from those little "got you"s.
Ed
Like Dusty said it is a good idea to include the joint plans at the start of your project. I'm in the process of sketching up a design and while I haven't worked out the actual depth of a rabbet I have it drawn and the dimension lines in place. Like wise the other dimension of the stock can not be determined now, but I have the dimension lines in place and the dimensions of the piece minus the rabbets is known and shown.
Of course sometimes it becomes a project in it self to recover from an error... as you found solution by using screws this time you may want to think about other ways you can deal with situations like this. One that comes to mind is the use of a loose tenon. Other ways might have been pocket screws, dowels, or maybe even biscuits or a combination of these.
The project you picked was a good choice, that is where you want to do your learning and learning how to recover from those little "got you"s.
Ed
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
To tell you the truth - I've made corrections for this forgetfulness two different ways.wgander wrote:How do you remember to plan for joints when drawing plans and cutting to length?
I got so involved with the dimensions of my project that I cut the pieces to length without allowing (for joints....
The first way is to get another piece of wood and this time leave room for the joint. (The original short piece can usually be used elsewhere on this or another project.)
The Second method is to use the "too short piece" as the new dimension. Too often we get caught up with planned dimensions and strive for the exact size as on a set of plans. Only if the project has to fit into a special confined space should that be a major concern.
I've found the projects giving me the most enjoyment are those in which I never (or only once or twice) used a ruler or scale. Using story sticks has improved my accuracy in fitting parts. Also just simply cutting and fitting pieces also works great in making a project. These projects never have the dimensions of the original plans, but they go together nicely and look good.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
- hudsonmiller
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Welcome to the floating tennon
If you have a router and some scrap you can make a mortise on each piece ant then fit in a floating tennon. A perfectly acceptable solution to a bad day.
Just remember - It's all tool setup.
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wgander
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joints
Thanks for the ideas: I guess I'll have to put a note about joints on each piece of paper I use when sketching my ideas.
I considered a biscuit joint but each piece was dadoed to frame a lattice, so there wasn't much space to work with. I could have used a single dowel, but didn't have any. Because of the dimensions and how many of the parts I had already cut, I didn't want to reduce the dimensions to add mortise and tenon joints.
I considered a biscuit joint but each piece was dadoed to frame a lattice, so there wasn't much space to work with. I could have used a single dowel, but didn't have any. Because of the dimensions and how many of the parts I had already cut, I didn't want to reduce the dimensions to add mortise and tenon joints.
planning joints
I doubt if my father even owned a ruler as he always used story sticks to make beautiful furniture and do finish work in new homes. When growing up, I never understand his way of measuring things but the pieces always fitted really good. Lately, I have slowly begin to use story sticks as I misplace all my rulers most days and I find the story stick is hard to misplace and easy to find. Plus I do not misread the numbers on my rulers when using the story stick. Really a great way to do time honored work.charlese wrote:I've found the projects giving me the most enjoyment are those in which I never (or only once or twice) used a ruler or scale. Using story sticks has improved my accuracy in fitting parts. Also just simply cutting and fitting pieces also works great in making a project. These projects never have the dimensions of the original plans, but they go together nicely and look good.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
As I remembered floating tenons (aka loose tenons) I got on the forum to add that idea, and saw Hudsonmiller had beat me to it. I think the floating tenon idea was thought up by people that forgot to make tenons before cutting to size. They really work great - and aren't really loose of floating once they are in and glued.wgander wrote:Thanks for the ideas: I guess I'll have to put a note about joints on each piece of paper I use when sketching my ideas.
I considered a biscuit joint but each piece was dadoed to frame a lattice, so there wasn't much space to work with. I could have used a single dowel, but didn't have any. Because of the dimensions and how many of the parts I had already cut, I didn't want to reduce the dimensions to add mortise and tenon joints.
Whatdya mean you didn't have a dowel?
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA