All the references I have seen about table alignment refer to using the saw blade. What about the disc sander? Its diameter is a bit larger and one could therefore take readings with the dial indicator over a greater length, leading to more accuracy. And one would not have to worry about using the same tooth.
This seems like it would be ok with my disc sander because the velcro on mine is not dead center and there is a gap around the edge on one side. The gap is wide enough for the pin of the dial indicator to get a good contact directly on the metal. Even if you did not have room around the velcro, I could imagine you could clamp a small piece of metal on the back of the disc and take a reading on it.
Would this work, or is the disc sander too inaccurate?
Sorry if this has been asked before. I tried a search but could not find it.
Paul
Table alignment with disc sander?
Moderator: admin
-
paul heller
- Gold Member
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:41 pm
- Location: Arvada, CO
Paul - I think I read something about alignment of the saw table using the disk sander. In fact, as I remember this was a recommended method.
Do it! You can always check later to see how close you are to a saw blade. My guess is, you will be right on.
Do it! You can always check later to see how close you are to a saw blade. My guess is, you will be right on.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
-
paulmcohen
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1578
- Joined: Fri Dec 08, 2006 8:10 pm
- Location: Beaverton, Oregon
- Contact:
When I got my original 500 it said to align the tables with the disk sander, but once you put paper on it that becomes problematic. The manual said to mark a spot on the disk with a grease pencil. I have purchased a precision flat plate and I have been using it with the Shopsmith dial indicator with great success.
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
-
woodburner
- Gold Member
- Posts: 498
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 2:35 am
- Location: Visalia, CA
- Contact:
It is better to use a saw blade for this alignment. The sanding discs that come with the machines now are not guaranteed to be perfectly flat. A saw blade will always be more flat.
After using the sanding disc for a while, the heat buildup on the disc will warp the sanding disc a bit more than what a saw blade will warp, making the disc less acurate for alignment purposes.
After using the sanding disc for a while, the heat buildup on the disc will warp the sanding disc a bit more than what a saw blade will warp, making the disc less acurate for alignment purposes.
Sawdust & Shavings,
Woodburner:o
Woodburner:o
-
dusty
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 21530
- Joined: Wed Nov 22, 2006 6:52 am
- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Table alignment with disc sander
Yes, you can use the sanding disc and your alignment will be as good as your disc is perfectly flat.
Yes, you can use a saw blade (or precison flat) and your alignment will be as good as your saw blade is perfectly flat.
When I got my Shopsmith, I was taught (by Shopsmith) to use my sanding disc. I was instructed to find the hi spot (mark it) and use that spot on the disc for my alignments. It worked for many years and still would but I now use the blade in the same manner. Why? Because it's there, already mounted.
Incidently, I believe you can use any spot on any disc or blade with equal results as long as you use the same spot.
Yes, you can use a saw blade (or precison flat) and your alignment will be as good as your saw blade is perfectly flat.
When I got my Shopsmith, I was taught (by Shopsmith) to use my sanding disc. I was instructed to find the hi spot (mark it) and use that spot on the disc for my alignments. It worked for many years and still would but I now use the blade in the same manner. Why? Because it's there, already mounted.
Incidently, I believe you can use any spot on any disc or blade with equal results as long as you use the same spot.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
-
paul heller
- Gold Member
- Posts: 288
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 7:41 pm
- Location: Arvada, CO
-
Ed in Tampa
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 5834
- Joined: Fri Jul 21, 2006 12:45 am
- Location: North Tampa Bay area Florida
My alignment instructions that came with my machine specifies using the sanding disk. I used it until just lately when Nick gave us new instructions on how to align the SS, in which he specified using a blade.
I think the sanding disk is probably superior since you don't have to contend with blade teeth. However I also understand the concern about disks that are not perfectly flat and etc.
That said, since the alignment procedure specifies marking the high spot and using it as check point it really doesn't matter if the disk is flat or not. The only way the high point could/should change is if the actual spindle/arbor changed as it turned.
Ed
I think the sanding disk is probably superior since you don't have to contend with blade teeth. However I also understand the concern about disks that are not perfectly flat and etc.
That said, since the alignment procedure specifies marking the high spot and using it as check point it really doesn't matter if the disk is flat or not. The only way the high point could/should change is if the actual spindle/arbor changed as it turned.
Ed
-
james.miller
- Gold Member
- Posts: 303
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 2:16 pm
The part about the disc being flat is in reference to adjusting the table in drill press mode to put the table perpendicular to the spindle, front to back and side to side.
In the horizontal boring mode with the table set 90 degrees to the spindle.
Adjust front to back clearance with shims between the trunnion and the table until it is parallel with the blade. Side to side use the 90 degree stops to adjust until parallel with the blade. Then go to table saw mode and align the miter slot to the blade and finally align the fence with the miter bar.
Read Nick's post on aligning the table at http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... 61#post761 it's very good
In the horizontal boring mode with the table set 90 degrees to the spindle.
Adjust front to back clearance with shims between the trunnion and the table until it is parallel with the blade. Side to side use the 90 degree stops to adjust until parallel with the blade. Then go to table saw mode and align the miter slot to the blade and finally align the fence with the miter bar.
Read Nick's post on aligning the table at http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... 61#post761 it's very good
Jim in Tucson