Bandsaw burns wood
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Yep I always release the tension on the blade when I'm done with it for the day. Why ya wanting silicone spray? Should be able to find it in any hardware store.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
- dusty
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On the other hand, I don't touch the tensioner unless I am changing blades or have it set wrong for the kind of wood I am cutting. I'll bet that he wants to spray something with silicone because he thinks it's a good lubricant. If he stains a piece of wood that he is going to finish natural, he won't want silicone anymore (at least not in his wood shop). I buy mine at Ace Hardware. I go to the neighborhood Ace before I shop anywhere else for anything that Ace might handle.beeg wrote:Yep I always release the tension on the blade when I'm done with it for the day. Why ya wanting silicone spray? Should be able to find it in any hardware store.
PS I use silicone spray very sparingly and with caution to spray only what I want lubricated I use it on the speed control (pork chop) and on the gears under the speed control dial cover. When spraying in the headstock, I protect the belts with a rag and I don't spray enough to have any drips or runs.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
He's probably referencing my post (last post of page 2). Both "belt conditioner" and silicone were recommended to me in another thread as treatments for dry and cracked bandsaw tires. I've used the belt conditioner, but not the silicone. The instructions for using the silicone were to spray it on a rag and wipe that on the tires. Of course you want to remove the blade, disconnect the power, and turn the wheels by hand.dusty wrote:On the other hand, I don't touch the tensioner unless I am changing blades or have it set wrong for the kind of wood I am cutting. I'll bet that he wants to spray something with silicone because he thinks it's a good lubricant. If he stains a piece of wood that he is going to finish natural, he won't want silicone anymore (at least not in his wood shop). I buy mine at Ace Hardware. I go to the neighborhood Ace before I shop anywhere else for anything that Ace might handle.
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
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putttn
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I was going to see if I could recondition the belt by using the Silicone spray suggested in the linked thread.
I keep looking at the Belt Tensioner and I realize this is a dumb question but how do you tell which fraction the belt is tightened to?? I see 1/4, 3/8 etc but I'm not seeing a mark or marker to align anything to?
So Dusty, you don't "untension" the blade after use?
I keep looking at the Belt Tensioner and I realize this is a dumb question but how do you tell which fraction the belt is tightened to?? I see 1/4, 3/8 etc but I'm not seeing a mark or marker to align anything to?
So Dusty, you don't "untension" the blade after use?
There should be a red plate that moves as ya tighten the set screw. That is your alignment point.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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- JPG
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The 'red bar' is a spring. The calibration marks indicate the position of the edge of the bar when it has been 'bent' far enough to provide correct tension to the blade for the size blade indicated.
Being a spring, it likes to be 'relaxed'. Also when under tension, the upper bearing and arm are also under tension. The arm/bearing are not a spring, and do deform under extended lengths of being under tension. This deformation can be 'corrected' by pulling out the bottom of the upper wheel while pushing in at the top, but this flexing will eventually weaken the arm and require more frequent 'correction'.
Bottom line - It is best to relieve the tension when not being used for extended periods of time. This is not necessarily every day. The bandsaw gods will not rain on your parade if you do not do this religiously, but tis a good idea.
The tires like to relax also!;)
Being a spring, it likes to be 'relaxed'. Also when under tension, the upper bearing and arm are also under tension. The arm/bearing are not a spring, and do deform under extended lengths of being under tension. This deformation can be 'corrected' by pulling out the bottom of the upper wheel while pushing in at the top, but this flexing will eventually weaken the arm and require more frequent 'correction'.
Bottom line - It is best to relieve the tension when not being used for extended periods of time. This is not necessarily every day. The bandsaw gods will not rain on your parade if you do not do this religiously, but tis a good idea.
The tires like to relax also!;)
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
- dusty
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- Location: Tucson (Wildcat Country), Arizona
Bandsaw Tension Mechanism
A Picture Rather Than Words
[ATTACH]8560[/ATTACH]
Tension is set for a 1/8" blade.
[ATTACH]8560[/ATTACH]
Tension is set for a 1/8" blade.
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- P4110016 (Small).JPG (44.61 KiB) Viewed 2965 times
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
mark-b wrote:I sprayed my blade with silcone ONCE, the blade immediately came off the wheels.I will never do that again!
Good Idea!!! In my experience, silicone is a good lubricant to use on rubber bandsaw tires and on the adjusting screw shown in Dusty's photo above!
However Since your blade came off the wheels, let me suggest you check the tilt of the upper wheel! A straight edge placed across the upper wheel should leave a 1/8" to 1/4" space in front of the lower wheel.
Octogenarian's have an earned right to be a curmudgeon.
Chuck in Lancaster, CA
Chuck in Lancaster, CA